Wednesday, 9 August 2023
Charging single diners double?
Friday, 4 August 2023
Searing Grapes: The Impact of High Temperatures on the Wine Industry in Europe
Whilst some of us enjoy basking in the warmer weather (not
me!) we cannot ignore the fact that this summer has proved to be a bit of a
scorcher, with temperatures breaking records in many parts of the world.
Naturally, I am interested in the impact this might have on my favourite
beverage, wine. The wine industry in Europe, which has been flourishing for
centuries, is facing unprecedented challenges due to climate change. As global
warming intensifies, European vineyards are grappling with rising temperatures,
changing weather patterns, and extreme heat events. This can have far-reaching
consequences for the wine industry in terms of vine cultivation, grape quality,
wine production, and the overall economic and cultural landscape of the
continent.
Traditionally, European wine regions thrived in temperate
climates with mild summers and cool nights, creating optimal conditions for
grape cultivation. However, with temperatures soaring, many vineyards are now
facing difficulties in growing grape varieties that were once well-suited to
the region's conditions. The heat stresses the vines, leading to premature
ripening, stunted growth, and reduced yields. Vineyard owners and winemakers
are left with the difficult choice of either adapting to new grape varieties or
relocating to higher altitudes and cooler regions.
High temperatures during the growing season can severely
impact grape quality. Extreme heat can cause dehydration and sugar
concentration in the grapes, resulting in higher alcohol levels in the wine;
hence the higher alcohol content of wines from Australia and California, for
example. The natural acidity that gives European wines their characteristic
balance and complexity may decrease, leading to wines that lack structure and
freshness. The delicate aromas and flavours that make European wines
sought-after may also be altered or diminished, impacting the wine's overall
sensory profile.
As temperatures rise and traditional grape varieties
struggle to cope, winemakers are adapting their practices to remain
competitive. Some wineries are exploring new cultivation techniques, such as
shading the vines or altering the trellising systems to protect the grapes from
excessive heat exposure. Others are opting for advanced irrigation methods to
counteract water stress and maintain grape quality. In some cases, winemakers
are turning to innovative technologies and viticultural practices to mitigate
the effects of heat on their vineyards.
The combination of higher alcohol levels and altered grape
characteristics is leading to shifts in wine styles and taste profiles.
European winemakers are experimenting with earlier harvests to preserve acidity
and control alcohol levels. Consequently, wines may be lighter in body and show
different aromatic and flavour profiles compared to their traditional
counterparts. While these adaptations can result in interesting new wines, they
also pose challenges for preserving the unique heritage and identity of
European wine regions.
The wine industry is a cornerstone of European culture and
heritage, contributing significantly to the continent's economy. High
temperatures and the resulting changes in grape cultivation and wine production
can have a profound economic impact on the industry. Smaller vineyards, which
often rely on traditional methods and grape varieties, are particularly
vulnerable to the effects of climate change. The economic viability of these
vineyards may be at risk, potentially leading to the loss of local jobs and a
decline in the cultural significance of wine in the region.
To address the challenges posed by high temperatures, the wine industry in Europe is taking a multi-faceted approach. Sustainable and organic farming practices are being promoted to maintain soil health and improve vine resilience. Research and development are ongoing to identify and breed grape varieties that can better withstand heat stress while preserving the region's wine characteristics. Additionally, regional and international cooperation is crucial in sharing knowledge and best practices for climate change adaptation. Only through collaborative efforts, innovative solutions, and sustainable practices can European winemakers safeguard their heritage while embracing a changing climate.
For wine drinkers, all is not lost however. In hot climates,
certain grape varieties have demonstrated a remarkable ability to thrive and
produce quality wines despite the challenging conditions. These grape varieties
have evolved and adapted to withstand heat stress, making them well-suited for
vine cultivation in warmer regions. Some of the grape varieties that do best in
hot climates, which surprisingly include several white varieties,
include:
Vermentino/Rolle: a white grape variety commonly
found in Mediterranean regions like Sardinia, Corsica, and Southern France. It
is renowned for its ability to retain acidity in hot climates, resulting in
refreshing white wines with citrus and stone fruit notes.
Viognier: one of my favourite varieties, a white
grape variety that excels in warm climates, particularly in regions like the
Rhône Valley in France and certain parts of California. It produces aromatic
wines with floral and tropical fruit characteristics.
Assyrtiko: Assyrtiko: another white grape
variety, and native to the Greek island of Santorini. It is incredibly
resilient to hot, arid conditions and volcanic soils, producing crisp and
mineral-driven wines with citrus and saline notes.
Grenache/Garnacha: a red grape variety that is
known for its ability to endure high temperatures and drought conditions. It is
widely cultivated in regions like Southern France (e.g., Rhône Valley,
Languedoc-Roussillon), Spain (e.g., Priorat, Rioja, Navarra), and Australia.
Grenache-based wines often exhibit bold fruit flavours, spice, and moderate
tannins.
Carignan/Cariñena: another red grape variety
that is well-suited for hot climates. It is often found in blends, particularly
in Southern France and Spain. Carignan is valued for its ability to maintain
acidity and produce wines with vibrant red fruit characteristics.
Mourvèdre/Monastrell: a heat-loving red grape
variety commonly grown in Southern France, Spain, and some parts of Australia.
It thrives in warm, arid conditions and produces wines with intense dark fruit
flavours and spice, often with a robust tannic structure.
Zinfandel: Zinfandel: a red grape variety native
to California, USA. It performs exceptionally well in hot regions like the
Central Valley and is the primary grape used in the production of the famous
"California Zinfandel" wines. Zinfandel wines are known for their
bold, jammy fruit flavours and high alcohol content.
Tempranillo: Tempranillo: is the flagship red grape
variety of Spain, known for its prominent role in wines from Rioja and Ribera
del Duero. It can handle hot summers and is valued for its versatility, capable
of producing a range of styles from light and fruity to deeply structured
wines.
Malbec: a red grape variety originally from
France, but which has found great success in Argentina, especially in the
Mendoza region. In Argentina's high-altitude vineyards, Malbec thrives in the
hot, sunny climate, resulting in rich, fruity wines with velvety tannins.
Tinta Barroca: a red grape variety primarily
grown in Portugal's Douro Valley, where it plays a crucial role in the
production of Port wines. It is well-suited for the hot and dry conditions of
the region.
These grape varieties have not only adapted to hot climates
but have also gained recognition for their ability to produce distinctive and
appealing wines, showcasing the diverse range of flavours and styles that can
be achieved in warmer viticultural areas.
Wednesday, 3 May 2023
LINDA PIGGOTT – PAUL HARRIS FELLOW AWARD
LINDA PIGGOTT – PAUL HARRIS FELLOW AWARD
THE ROTARY CLUB OF ILMINSTER CITATION
Rotary established the Paul Harris recognition in 1957 to encourage and show appreciation for substantial contributions to what was then the Foundation’s only programme, Rotary Foundation Fellowships for Advanced Study, the precursor to Ambassadorial Scholarships.
‘When we decide to award a Paul Harris Fellowship it is the practice of the Rotary Club of Ilminster to put together a brief explanation of why the person concerned is worth one. To make it more the club likes to keep the recipient guessing until as late in the spiel as they can.
This new Paul Harris Fellow is a Past President and has been a real force in and for the Ilminster Club since joining in 2002. There was always a popular misconception that Rotarians were middle class old men in grey suits, well-meaning but dull; not this one! For a start this recipient was the first member of the club without a y chromosome. She was and is outrageous, outspoken and utterly unconventional. She put others to shame with her restless energy. She bared her all in the national press campaigning for better breast cancer treatment, abseiling down County Hall for charity, cooking for the King of the Gypsies, teaching immigrants and convicts. She is the only member the club is ever likely to have who had a cow named after her by the African villagers in Nairobi, to whom it was sent to provide for hungry children. She went to Africa to see the toilets the club was trying to get replaced, and to India to see the school for young women the club was supporting through a literacy project. Very occasionally she was at home.
Nearer to home, she served the community on every possible local council and was hugely respected by all as someone who would move heaven and earth to get things done. No problem was too small for her to worry about or too big for her to shun. Some weeks the local press seemed to be full of her and she won the Ilminster club a national award for outstanding publicity.
That was the bit everyone heard about, but she did so much more that never appeared in the press. She gave up hours of the time she hadn’t got to the Samaritans. She helped countless individuals in need and those the system fails with selfless, patient kindness. Her version of ‘Service Above Self’ was so intense that, at times, the club was genuinely concerned for the one person she did not seem to take care of… herself.
It would be hard to imagine a more deserving Paul Harris Fellow than Linda Piggott.’
Wednesday, 22 February 2023
GIVE ME MOOR
GIVE ME MOOR- SPOILT FOR CHOICE
Although mainly travelling for pleasure these days, old
habits die hard. As a professional hotel and restaurant inspector, I have
sampled the full spectrum;
eating and drinking, and staying in hotels, pubs and, on
occasion, some rather dubious establishments, for as long as I can
remember.
As an occasional viewer of TV programme ‘Four in a Bed’, I
do get cross with the nit-picking attitude of the combatants, where a stray
hair takes on a level of importance far out of proportion.
I am not easy to please and my list my list of must-haves is
endless. In exchange for spending our hard-earned cash on a few days away from
our normal daily routine, we all want different things, often at different
times.
Often when deciding where to stay we focus, wrongly to my
mind, on an establishment’s star rating, or reviews on social media sites. Some
of my most enjoyable experiences have been in the humblest of places. Having
stayed and eaten in thousands of places over the best part of 30 years, those
that stick in my memory are regrettably few and far between.
I have never been a sun, sea and sand kind of person, and in
recent months I have been overjoyed to have the opportunity to spend a good
deal of time on Dartmoor.
I find the setting of the often desolate, wild and woolly
landscape of Dartmoor truly stunning in all weathers; it never fails to make me
gasp in and catch my breath.
On a good day, just an hour and a half from home, it makes
for a splendid day trip, but having made the trek, I prefer to spend a little longer
there; naturally I need somewhere to rest my weary head, and to nourish my
greedy stomach, in addition to my soul.
The ancient stannary and market town of Tavistock, with a
population of just 11,000, makes the perfect base for getting out and about,
although do be aware that parking in town can be a nightmare.
Here are some of my favourite discoveries, all of which I
have enjoyed in person over the last few months, most of which, thankfully, are
open on Sunday evenings and in the early part of the week; a rare find these
days.
Queen’s Head,79-80
West St, Tavistock PL19 8AQ. Tel. 01822 612455
This is a popular Wetherspoon’s pub situated on the main
street. To be honest I am not usually a fan of this type of place, BUT the
rooms are very well equipped (feather pillows and duvets, bottled water,
biscuits, walk in shower) and excellent value for money.
Cornish Arms, 15
West St, Tavistock PL19 8AN Tel. 01822 612145
Just a hop and a skip from the Queen’s Head (with pricy
accommodation) this pub is so named as it was the last coaching inn before
Cornwall. Recommended by Michelin, I have really enjoyed all of the food I have
sampled, using seasonal ingredients prepared with innovation. For this quality
I felt that the prices were reasonable. A great British pub, serving good
honest food and drink in warm welcoming surroundings.
Bedford Hotel, 1
Plymouth Rd, Tavistock PL19 8BB Tel. 01822 613221
This classic traditional hotel right in the centre of town,
is the place to be seen in Tavistock (and has parking!), and along with its
sister hotel, Two Bridges (see below), has become my go-to place for a
comfortable night’s stay. Overseen by Sarah Howard, who is very hands on, this
is a real family enterprise, and very well run. Staff are friendly and helpful,
and the food is pretty good too, especially when I can have eggs Benedict or
smoked haddock for breakfast!
Two Bridges Hotel, Dartmoor PL20
6SW Tel.: 01822 892300
This sister hotel to The Bedford is right in the heart of
Dartmoor, on the banks of the West Dart River. With geese and ducks on the
lawn, and a landscape of roaming sheep and ponies within touching distance,
with a roaring log fire, award winning food (including pancakes by special
request on Pancake Day!), and Jail Ale from their own Dartmoor Brewery, what’s
not to love?
Hotel Endsleigh, Milton Abbot, Tavistock PL19 0PQ
Tel.: 01822 870000
Set in 100 acres of fairy tale gardens, woodlands, follies
and grottos created by Humphry Repton, and part of the Polizzi Collection, I
could not resist a little detour to have Sunday lunch. Food is beautifully
prepared and pleasingly, there is no multi-course set menu; sandwiches and
salads are on offer for those with smaller appetites.
Horn of Plenty, B3362, Tavistock PL198JD Tel. 01822 832528
Here is where I took a trip down memory lane. In the early
1980s, at a time when, owned by Sonia Stevenson and her eccentric husband
Patrick, this was consistently gaining awards I attended one of her residential
‘Courses for Sauces’, a wonderful experience I have never forgotten. Since then,
I have been back several times, but not recently. It was like stepping back in
time, as virtually nothing had changed. Although it has had several new owners
over the years, the food served here continues to win awards, and their Charity
Lunches at £24 for two courses are good value for money.
Taylor’s, 22
Market St, Tavistock PL19 0DD Tel. 01822
613045
This lovely little restaurant, along with its sister
establishment, Church Lane, serves imaginative food, sourcing ingredients from
small, local suppliers and produce wonderful seasonal menus. Prices are
moderate and the quality is consistent.
Church Lane, 1 Church
Lane 22 Market Street, Tavistock PL19 8AA
Tel.: 01822 610413
This has become one of my favourite go-to places. In
addition to food served all day long, in this stunning Georgian property
adjacent to the church, they have an extensive rum list, and authentic Italian
style pizzas, all named after famous cyclists (30% off on Tuesdays). There are
also salads, sharing boards and French crepes.
Peter Tavy Inn, Tavistock PL19 9NN Tel.:
01822 810348
I can recall inspecting this country pub when covering the
area as an AA inspector several decades ago. Clearly popular, their senior
citizen lunches are available for just £8, and proved to be too much for my
modest appetite.
Robertson’s,4-8
Pepper St, Tavistock PL19 0BD,
A local institution since 2006, this is the place to visit
for a lazy lunch, an evening meal with family, drinks with friends or for a
takeaway pizza. The restaurant is family-run and offers ‘food people can feel
good about’, with an emphasis on fresh, organic and locally sourced
ingredients.
Friday, 2 December 2022
The Story of the Christmas Tablecloth
Sunday, 20 November 2022
POLDEN WINES
Post pandemic, those businesses which have survived, and
many have not, are those that have taken the plunge to explore other options
that seem to have weathered the storm. One example of this locally is Polden
Wines, at Stocklands Vineyard, based in the Polden Hills, not far from
Bridgwater.
A recent visit with vine grower Sue Applegate, shows how
with passion and dedication a small business can still make its mark. This
diminutive vineyard was planted in 2008 with almost 4,000 vines of just two
grape varieties, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, in a total area of just 2 acres.
Although the two grape varieties yield the same tonnage, because of its tricky
nature, the Pinot Noir has a lower yield. The Pinot Noir, one of my favourite
grape varieties, takes up 2/3 of the area and is used both for their ‘Polden
Rose’ rosé wine and also ‘Polden Ruby’, their red wine. Its seductive colour
and complex flavours give it the advantage of being used either as a full red,
or with less skin contact during fermentation, a pretty pale rose. Their white
wine, ‘Polden Star’, is made from the Chardonnay grape variety, and here the
cool climate conditions give a clean, fresh wine with a hint of citrus, quite
unlike the heavier Chardonnays from the New World that many of us have become
accustomed to. Polden wines are all Single Vineyard, meaning that all of the
grapes from which the wine is pressed only comes from Stocklands vineyard.
Whilst up until now all of their wines have been single variety, in 2020, at
the height of the pandemic, a decision was made to make a sparkling wine with a
blend of both varieties. This decision was largely driven by the difficulties
posed by lockdown and the need to ensure that the harvest was not wasted. The
good news, for us as consumers, is that this month has seen the long-awaited
release of Polden’s first ever sparkling wine, ‘Polden Jazz’. Made with a
second fermentation in the bottle, and using both Chardonnay, which is
dominant, and Pinot Noir, two of the officially approved Champagne grape
varieties, this splendid newcomer cannot fail to lift the spirits. The wine is
un-oaked to retain a clean, fresh finish.
After a chance meeting with friends, Sue, renowned peony
grower, and with no vineyard experience, took over management of the vines in
2019 in what was to be a steep learning curve. With previous vineyard tenants
Mark and Jenny Thorp looking to retire and hand over the reins, Mark acted as
mentor, whilst Steve Brooksbank, a well-known wine maker from Shepton Mallet,
and with many awards to his name, continues to produce all Stocklands wines.
This perfect partnership, where the small team is supplemented by a band of
willing volunteers, is going from strength to strength. If you fancy bud
rubbing, tucking in, raising the wires, leaf stripping or harvesting grapes,
then get in touch.
Tasting sessions are held regularly, and with a ticket price
of just £10 per person to include tasting the three Polden wines, this would
make an ideal low cost Christmas present for budding oenophiles. The cost is
refunded on purchases of six or more bottles.
Open by Appointment
Telephone: 07493 773153
Thursday, 3 November 2022
TIME TO DECLUTTER
Nearing the end of this turbulent year, like many of us, I will be re-assessing my priorities.
Having resigned from all of my positions of responsibility at the beginning of the year, big sigh of relief, it has taken me longer than I thought to get my act together.
Not getting any younger, and with, thankfully, no family responsibilities, I have come to the conclusion that it is time to shed those responsibilities that remain, get my hands on as much filthy lucre as I’m entitled, and take off. When? When? Who knows? But what I do know is that I am hampered by my possessions. For me, in the privileged position of owning (with mortgages) two properties, one here in Somerset, and one in Northern France, now both up for sale, has brought about its challenges.
Reluctantly, I have realised that much as I love the things I surround myself with, collected over almost 60 years, and with lasting memories of times, places, people, what am I going to do in my declining years? Sit at home and stare at them?
I would describe myself as a tidy hoarder and have more of everything than almost anyone I know, but really, seven dinner services, enough bed linen for a hotel, and countless pairs of shoes, coats, and handbags. You can only eat off one plate or wear one pair of shoes at a time.
The only thing in constant short supply is wine, but that is a subject for another time.
My main problem, or two, is that I cannot bear waste, and love a bargain. The vast majority of what I own, including a grandfather clock, a posh leather sofa, and a full suit of armour, has been given to me. ‘I’m getting rid of this Linda, do you want it?’ I just cannot say no.
Nowadays I dare not leave the house, because three of my key weaknesses are community fund raisers, auctions, and charity shops, although I really do not need any more possessions.
I am an inveterate viewer of Antiques Road Trip and am continually astonished at how much stuff there is on offer, often very cheaply; items that can make quirky gifts, with the added advantage that the recipient is unlikely to establish how little it cost!
I think fondly of my 1930s walnut drinks cabinet complete with lemon squeezer in the door, which cost me £5, the 3m x 4m Axminster rug bought for just £18, the wrought iron staircase (which I put up myself) which was a mere £12, and hand-made Egyptian rag rug for just £5 (the very one the shop owner was sleeping on).
My point is, and it has taken me a while to get here, is that in the run up to Christmas and the gift giving season, do we really need to be trawling through the likes of Argos and Amazon to buy the latest, most expensive, smartest, on-trend gadget, clothing, toy? Not at all. We allow ourselves to be seduced by the marketing campaigns and part with our hard-earned cash on things which largely do not stand the test of time.
We all have our priorities. Moving forward mine are going to focus on enjoying the here and now, spending time with friends, and storing up those memories that will steer me through my dotage.
I shall focus on providing the people in my life with good experiences, top quality fresh food and wine, sourced locally and prepared with love. Things which demonstrate time and effort for loved ones, not open purse strings.
We spend much of our lives worrying about things that will often not come about and there is much to focus on for the remaining weeks of this year, but I live by this, some may say trite, mantra.
When trouble strikes there are only two question that matter:
‘Is this life or death?’ If the answer is no, then do not worry about it.
And if it is, ask ‘Can I do anything about the situation?’
If the answer is no, then do not worry about it.
Wishing you a worry-free start to 2023, combined with health wealth and happiness.
Tuesday, 11 October 2022
DINING AT THE SEAT OF THE ELITE
It is not every day that completely out of the blue one receives an invitation to dine with the provost (Lord William Waldegrave) in the hallowed halls of Eton College.
To many of us Eton College is synonymous with wealth and privilege; those holding important positions in whatever field they have chosen to practice, and often with titles attached to their names. Whilst, if one reads the British press (which I do not, having given it up as a bad job many years ago), this may reflect the man on the street’s views, it is far from the truth.
Eton College was originally founded by King Henry VI as a charity school to provide free education to 70 poor boys who would then go on to King's College, Cambridge, founded by the same King in 1441. It is well worth reading up on Eton’s history to put things into context.
A diverse group, all with a common bond, I, along with 60 others, had been invited to Eton because we had all been the fortunate recipients of bursaries which were offered as a result of the Fleming Report of 1944. The Report recommended reciprocal arrangements between Local Authorities and Public Schools – a proposal that led to what became known as the “Middlesex Scheme” to provide opportunities for public school education to boys and girls irrespective of the income of their parents. Collectively, the scheme beneficiaries were all known as ‘The Fleming Boys and Girls’.
This was the first ever get-together of us all, which had been organised by Old Etonian Christopher Horne, who has been carrying out research for a book on the subject.
The luncheon, hosted, and indeed paid for, by Eton College, included those who, in addition to Eton, had been educated at Mill Hill, Rugby, Winchester and, in my case, Westonbirt School. Joined by four other former Westonbirt girls, I was thoroughly delighted at being outnumbered 10 to 1 by our male counterparts. Few of those in attendance knew each other, and most had never met before, which made for enthusiastic, getting-to-know-you type conversation, and I soon discovered that, now fast approaching my 70s, I was almost the youngest person present.
On being introduced to my fellow diners, a lesser person might well have taken exception to being introduced as ‘The most notorious woman in England’, but not yours truly. I was assured that our organiser had done his homework, causing him to come to such a conclusion.
Smart casual was the dress code for the day, and after pre-lunch drinks (splendid English bubbly from Coates & Seely), accompanied by just cheese straws and crisps, nothing fancy, we settled down to lunch in Election Hall.
Thankfully, there was no table plan, and as I plonked myself down into a vacant seat, as the lone female, I was able to benefit from the company of the male diners at our table for eight, which included a bookmaker, a retired solicitor, and a financier who had taken up acting as a second career.
Whilst our surroundings, with its stained-glass windows, was impressive, I was struck by the lack of grandeur. In fact, I would suggest that Eton College is so comfortable in its own skin it has no need to impress.
Wines to accompany our two-course lunch included a modest Sancerre, and an Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, both very acceptable examples of their style and age. The food, whilst not quite award winning, was competently prepared and presented. For once, unusually for me, I could find no fault with it, or with the service we received. The apricot stuffed pork, accompanied by ratatouille-style vegetables, was moist and tender and for pud, we were served a deconstructed cheesecake made with baklava topped with blueberries.
No long speeches meant that lunch was over and done with in just over an hour and half. Perfect. Given the vast number of functions I had attended over many years this was by far the most enjoyable by a long shot. No-one had a hidden agenda, or was there to impress, influence, network, jockey for position or play at being top dog. It was a really jolly, lively gathering, where everyone was keen to engage and discover more about their fellow diners. Also of note, and a rare thing in this day and age, not one of the guests had expressed any food preferences when asked; no vegetarians, no allergies, no dislikes. We all came to the same conclusion; we were all of an age when different dietary requirements were not given any consideration.
Asked what public boarding school had done for me, I replied ‘Taught me to eat what is put in front of me and push it around the plate if necessary.’ To this day I still have a hatred of leeks (except in soup), and all forms of outdoor exercise, but can comfortably converse and mix with people from all social classes. However, life was not all a bed of roses. I was very homesick and kept running away, lasting a total of five terms before going onto Grammar School. Despite this, I still feel that in terms of my personal development I could not have wished for a better start in life and very much doubt that I would have otherwise achieved what I have without this opportunity.
I have become increasingly tired of the tirade against those who are wealthy or appear to be privileged in some way. In many cases they have worked hard to get where they are, and made sacrifices along the way.
Much has also been said during recent party-political conferences about our politicians’ back stories, and whether or not they are relevant. There is absolutely no doubt in my mind that it is our life experiences, both good and bad, that shape us, and make us what we are. Before we jump in with our prejudices and opinions, quick to judge and condemn others, we would do well to consider this.
Who are we to deny those who wish to improve the life chances for their offspring the opportunity to do so?
Coates & Seely NV sparkling wine, Hampshire, England, 12%abv. - £34.95
40% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier
Here they use their own version of the traditional méthode champenoise – the Méthode Britannique for their sparkling wine production. They no longer use isinglass, making the wines suitable for vegans.
Everything you would expect from a sparkling wine made from traditional Champagne grape varieties. Apple and lemon-curd aromas with honey-dew melon undertones and a typical yeasty fragrance. Full-bodied with plenty of fruit and a creamy finish.
Andre Dezat Sancerre, Loire, France 2020 13%abv. - £19
Made from Sauvignon Blanc, this is a highly thought of Sancerre, dry, yet fruity with a delicate bouquet and great length. Their vineyards have three different types of soil which give added complexity.
Domaine Rollin Pere et Fils Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France, 2018, 13.5%abv. - £15
Just two hectares from various parcels of 30-to-45-year-old Pinot Noir in Pernand and Echevronne go to produce this lovely wine. Sleek and elegant, with a fresh minerality. No new oak is used, and the wine is bottled after a relatively brief élévage of ten months in order to preserve its fruit.
Monday, 22 August 2022
THE BATHAMPTON MILL
THE BATHAMPTON MILL, Mill Lane, Bathampton, BA2 6TS
Tel. 01225 469758
With so many pubs, restaurants and other small businesses closing their doors for the final time in the last couple of years, it is heartening to hear of the recent investment that has been made for the refurbishment of The Bathampton Mill.
Having been a professional chef, competition judge and quality standards inspector for more years than I care to remember, I was delighted to receive an invitation to a preview of the new menu.
However, as a critic and writer let there be no mistake.. free meals do not necessarily mean a glowing review; it would be more than my reputation for objectivity and integrity is worth!
The Bathampton Mill, part of the long-standing Mitchells & Butlers Group, and part of their Premium Country Pubs brand, aims to deliver great food and drinks and a desire to consistently make the great British pub experience special for both their staff and guests.
Sited on the edge of Bath, one of the UK’s top visitor destinations, competition is tough. The danger for many establishments is the tendency to rely on passing trade, when in fact it is during the off-season that the loyalty of locals is what keeps a place ticking over.
Added to this is that with rising prices and the struggling economy, people are much more conscious of how they spend their hard-earned money and where they choose to spend it.
Much as I enjoy being on the receiving end of great service and good quality food, what is often overlooked, and can make or break the guest experience, is the hospitality; how I am treated. The odd mishap can be forgiven as long as I, the person paying their wages, feel valued.
Certainly, the splendidly stylish décor with its contemporary new look could not fail to give a very positive and welcoming first impression. The pub has a luxurious country house feel enhanced by interesting eye-catching artwork. Open log fires, for winter months, plush velvet seating and feature lighting add a touch of glamour to this relaxing and inviting space. Clearly this is intended to be a destination pub; not your average local boozer.
The pub has seating for 120, supplemented by a pleasant outdoor area; booking, especially at weekends, is advisable.
Invited to dine there prior to the official launch, the invitation was for myself and a guest, to sample items from their ‘All Day Menu’, which includes the usual suspects, pizza, burgers, steaks and salads, in addition to other more interesting dishes. Seasonal menus, with a range of interesting options from around the world, are supplemented by familiar pub favourites. The Bathampton Mill also prides itself on their rotisserie pork belly, 21 day-aged ribeye steak, and of course the traditional Sunday roast. Their new Dine at Home service is an ideal option for those nights when you don’t feel like cooking. Orders placed via their website automatically receive a 20% discount.
Arriving on a warm sunny evening, everything looked spick and span, and we were greeted by lovely smiley staff, including Rob (part of the training team and manager at another property), manager Kiran, and Max at the bar, who engaged with us enthusiastically to talk about the wide selection of beverages on offer.
I plumped for the Blood Orange and Passion Fruit Collins, from their extensive list of cocktails (sadly no brandy ones on offer though) which at £8.95 seemed reasonable and was quite delicious; sunshine in a glass. It could well become my go-to cocktail in future. Cocktails are just £12 for two from Monday to Thursday.
My companion, unable to decide which of the 30+ wines by the glass to have, was given several to try before making her decision. As she was driving (so that I could drink) she opted for the low calorie, low alcohol rosé. Not quite my cup of tea; I opted for an Italian Gavi, and a Portuguese red from the Douro. It was good to be able to choose something other than the limited mundane range of choices on offer in most pubs.
Our waitress for the evening, Zoe, was attentive without being intrusive and, once again, was keen to engage with us when invited to do so. When questioned about menu items she showed a good level of knowledge and an awareness of allergies.
In addition to quite an extensive ‘All Day Menu’, vegetarians and vegans are not forgotten, with a separate menu offered. There is also a children’s menu, main courses at £5.95, where it was pleasing to see some nod to offering healthy accompaniments in addition to the usual pizza, pasta and chicken. Whilst showing the calorie count for each dish was useful, on a personal level, when dining out, I am not at all sure that I want to be reminded of how much I am consuming!
As the pub is part of a large group, it is understandable that some menu items are bought in rather than being made in house.
All of the food we tried was well presented. We opted for ……. (yes, I know, scallops and pork, but our bellies got the better of us!)
PAN-FRIED WILD SCALLOPS with ras el hanout, smoked haddock Florentine bonbons, celeriac purée, apple & fennel tartare 265kcal 11.50. Whilst enjoyable, I felt that the scallops were somewhat overwhelmed by the other ingredients.
PORK BELLY BAO BUN with miso and sweet chili sauce, and kimchi 587kcal 7.25. This was less successful, and a poor rendition of a Chinese staple.
CAESAR SALAD - baby gem lettuce, anchovies, shaved parmesan, ciabatta croutons 627kcal 10.95. This was huge, and although the anchovies were tinned rather than fresh, it was a fair attempt at a classic salad, and a good deal better than most I have sampled recently.
MAPLE-GLAZED SLOW-COOKED PORK BELLY & SCALLOPS with a pulled pork & cider bonbon, roasted celeriac & fresh apple purée, dauphinoise potatoes, Tenderstem® broccoli, Bordelaise* sauce 1410kcal 19.75. Lots of lovely crispy crackling with this, and the generous portion of Dauphinoise potatoes were very well executed. As for the scallops, an unnecessary addition.
HOME-BAKED CHOCOLATE BROWNIE Belgian chocolate sauce, Bourbon vanilla ice cream (v) 661kcal 6.95. This is one of a few homemade puds on offer. I am not normally a brownie fan, but this was superb and highly recommended.
SICILIAN LEMON POSSET Vanilla sablé biscuits (v) 325kcal 6.95. Served unusually in a shallow ramekin, this provided a light finale to what was overall a good dining experience.
I would like to have seen cheese on offer to appease those who do not have a sweet tooth.
There is clear customer focus and flexibility at The Bathampton Mill, and although as the evening progressed there were some minor teething problems, this is to be expected with a brand-new team of staff in place; the overwhelming feeling was one of enthusiasm and positivity, and a good level of knowledge, although the website does need some tidying up.
I certainly plan to return and have earmarked several other dishes worth trying ….
CROXTON MANOR CHEESE SOUFFLÉ - toasted pine nuts, red chicory, sweet pear, cucumber dressing (v) 541kcal 7.50
BUTTERMILK CHICKEN, SOMERSET BRIE & BACON PIE - sautéed green beans & Tenderstem® broccoli, creamed potato, rich chicken gravy 1375kcal 15.75
APPLE & DAMSON CRUMBLE – with Bourbon vanilla ice cream 204kcal or custard 80kcal (v) 6.75
In an industry which is struggling, The Bathampton Mill is clearly taking a step in the right direction, putting the customer at the heart of its operation.
Sunday, 5 June 2022
THERE BUT FOR THE GRACE OF GOD
They say that there are only two things that are certain in
life; death and taxes.
Well, most of us, although law abiding people, spend much of
our time trying to see how we can avoid paying tax.
However, death is unavoidable and will come to us all
eventually.
I seem to be attending funerals at the rate of one a week at
the moment. Some deaths were not entirely unexpected; the person concerned
might have been suffering from long-standing health conditions, and their
family and loved ones had experienced first-hand their painful decline and
eventual demise. What is shocking though are those sudden and unexpected
deaths; here today gone tomorrow.
It is as if they have just popped out to do a bit of
shopping and disappeared off the face of the earth; nothing can prepare us for
such an eventuality.
On a personal level, I have always gone by the maxim ‘live
each day as if it is your last’.
The recent loss of several friends, including one with whom
I had enjoyed a long weekend in France just days ago, has given me pause for
thought, and made me more determined than ever to do enjoy the here and now.
None of us know when or where we might breathe our last breath, and I want to
squeeze out every last gasp.
Although the pandemic has made us all much more aware of the
importance of regular contact with loved ones, I am going to make a more conscious
effort to ensure that at the last point of contact with friends and family they
know that I love them and value them.
Just in case.
Thursday, 19 May 2022
Summer Celebrations
As the summer gets underway, and despite the doom and gloom
of the economy, we have lots to celebrate, both nationally and locally.
Many of our local villages and towns are gearing themselves
up for a host of celebrations to mark the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee, with the
added bonus that we get an extra-long bank holiday from Thursday 2nd to Sunday
5th June.
It looks like we are in for a fun-packed weekend.
Chard Town Council has been working together with local
schools, to organise a torch-lit parade, Thursday, June 2, along with a
lantern-making workshop in the Guildhall, Fore Street that morning.
The torch-lit parade will culminate with the lighting of the
Beacon on Crowshute Link at 9.45pm.
On Friday June 3 there is a special Civic Parade and Service
of Thanksgiving take place at St. Mary’s Church. In the evening there will be a
show, “Queen of the Commonwealth”, taking place at 7pm at the Guildhall.
On Saturday June 4, Freedom Leisure will have activities
taking place, in addition to a show at the Beacon, headlined with Bristol based
band Goodnight Lois.
On Sunday, June 5 Holyrood Street will be transformed to a
street party with entertainment for families, a brass band and food
outlets.
Over in Crewkerne there will be a ‘Jubilee in the Park’
celebration at Henhayes Recreation Ground on Friday 3rd June, 2-5pm.
Meanwhile, just down the road in Ilminster there will be
‘The Party on the Rec’ from 20am – 5pm, organised by the Rotary Club of
Ilminster, with live music, food, ice cream, a bar, games, and a dog show, all
for free!
Keep your eyes peeled for events in your own
community.
This is not all that we are good at though. Recently asked
to be one of the judges for the Town Crier competition held in Ilminster, and
ably organised once again by Town Crier Andrew Fox and his wife Julie, I was
reminded of the many wonderful quirky traditions for which we should be
famously proud. With Town Criers descending on the town from cross the country
it was fun to see traffic stopped in its tracks to view this wonderful
spectacle as entrants were put through their paces; and creating a right old
racket! What was particularly heartening was to see that the younger generation
are getting in on the act and that local lass, Sophy, from Chard, was the clear
winner in the junior competition.
Here's a bit of history for you.
Historically town criers, or Bellmen, were the original
newsmen and were particularly important when most of the population was
illiterate.
The first town criers were the Spartan Runners in the early
Greek Empire. With the advent of the Roman Conquest the role became a position
of the court, formalised after the Norman Conquest in 1066.
Town criers were protected by law; “Don’t shoot the
messenger” was a very real command as anything done to a town crier was deemed
to be done to the King and a treasonable offence. People of standing in the
community were chosen as they had to be able to write and read official
proclamations. Often, they were a husband-and-wife team with the wife ringing
the large hand bell whilst her husband shouted out the proclamation, usually at
the door of the local inn, before nailing it to the doorpost. The tradition has
resulted in the expression “posting a notice” and the naming of newspapers as
“The Post”.
Announcements are always preceded by the traditional “Oyez!
Oyez! Oyez!” (which is “listen” in French) and conclude with “God save the
Queen”.
Another truly British tradition that livens up many a town
and village throughout the summer months is that of Morris dancing, a form of
English folk dance usually accompanied by music. It is based on rhythmic
stepping and the execution of choreographed figures by a group of dancers,
usually wearing bell pads on their shins. Implements such as sticks, swords and
handkerchiefs may also be wielded by the dancers.
The earliest known and surviving English written mention of
Morris dance is dated to 1448 and records the payment of seven shillings to
Morris dancers by the Goldsmiths’ Company in London.
While the earliest records invariably mention “Morys” in a
court setting, and a little later in the Lord Mayors’ Processions in London, it
had adopted the nature of a folk dance performed in the parishes by the
mid-17th century.
Along with cheese rolling, cream teas, Guy Fawkes’s Night, a
good old Sunday roast and our ability to queue, these are things that never
fail to bring a smile to my face and makes me truly proud to be
British.
This summer there is plenty to keep us occupied without
breaking the bank.
Monday, 9 May 2022
THE MAGIC OF MONTENEGRO
My
recent trip to the Balkan states of Croatia, Bosnia-Hercegovina and Montenegro
had been planned long before the situation in the Ukraine began to dominate our
media. I had been apprehensive that a combination of Covid travel restrictions,
and fears of an escalation of the war, would mean the trip would be cancelled, but
thankfully not.
From
previous experience I know that travelling to war-torn areas of the world can
reap many benefits; the absence of hordes of tourists, greater value for money,
and the fact that the native population are so grateful to have visitors they
welcome you with open arms.
With
its unspoiled sandy beaches, historic architecture and awe-inspiring scenery, Montenegro
is a much sought-after travel destination.
Where
others may focus their travels on specific aspects of a country, its history,
nature, wildlife etc., my focus is always on food and wine.
This
was an organised tour (the subject of another article) and during our first
week as much as visits to UNESCO World Heritage Sites were worthwhile, changing
hotels every night made is more difficult to get to grips with an area. Thankfully
during our second we week we were able to stay put in one place, in Bečići, just
outside the popular holiday town of Budva (which must be a nightmare in the
summer months), giving me the opportunity to explore the Montenegrin vineyard
region in some depth.
Whilst
in many countries it can be advantageous to take part in an organised tour, this
was not all necessary in Montenegro, where the crime rate is very low, and
outside of peak holiday times getting out and about is hassle-free.
I
would advise against booking one of the many organised ‘wine tours’ available.
Starting at around €50 per person they do not offer good value for money. The
road network, and signage, is good, car hire is inexpensive at €22 per day,
including insurance, and driving is stress free. Many of the vineyards are
one-man bands and whilst there are advantages to having a guide, especially as
many vineyard owners do not speak English, they are always welcoming, and most
are willing to provide tastings free of charge. Do be aware that some wineries
are open by reservation only.
Many
Montenegrin vineyards are located in the southern and coastal regions of the
country, around beautiful Lake Skadar, also renowned for its trout, carp and
eel, all of which I was able to sample at bargain basement prices.
Montenegro’s
mild climate ensures excellent conditions for wine production, with wines made
from a wide range of grape varieties including native varieties such as Krstač
and Vranac, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Chardonnay, amongst
others.
Also,
not to be missed is the hillside village of Njeguši on the slopes of Mount
Lovćen, with a population of just 35, and where they produce superb Proscuitto
(pršut), good enough to rival that produced in Parma, Italy. The
particular flavour and aroma of pršut is the result of the mixture of
sea and mountain air and the beech wood burned during the lengthy drying
process, which can take up to two years to complete. Also worth looking out for,
is the fresh local cheese and intensely perfumed honey. Production of these
local delicacies is largely a cottage industry, where tastings and sales are
conducted from the kitchen of someone’s home.
When
shopping locally or eating out, except in larger hotels and restaurants in the
main tourist areas, it is worth noting that this is largely a cash economy where
credit cards are not usually accepted.
Widely
considered Montenegro’s national drink, a good deal of the distilled spirit
known as rakija is also produced. Said to be a restorative, instantly
destroying bacteria, it gives relief to stomach and muscle pain, annihilating
viruses and disinfects wounds. I am left wondering that whilst many of my
fellow travellers seemed to be stricken with one ailment or another, it must be
the quantity I imbibed that kept me in good health. It is considered obligatory
when welcoming someone to your home to offer them a glass of this. Rakija,
very similar to the Grappa popular in Italy, can be made out of almost any
fruit and has an alcohol content ranging from 40% to 80%, or higher. Most
households make their own, with that made from grapes (Loza) being the
most popular.
Of
the many vineyards along this route here are a few worth trying, and whose
wines I enjoyed. The average price for their most recent vintages was in the
region of €10 a bottle. For the smaller producers wine sales are on site only,
and very few are available to buy in the UK at the moment, but then you would
be missing out on a delightful travel experience!
Cemovsko
Field
This
is the largest vineyard on one site in Europe, stretching an impressive 2310 ha.,
owned by the Montenegrin company 13.Jul Plantaže and established in 1963. For
me, small has always been beautiful. Very consumer focused, at this commercial operation
they offer a variety of tastings and tours (€12 - €22). They seem to supply
many of the hotels and restaurants with the mini 187ml. bottles of house wine
on offer, where I would compare the quality with the standard offering of our
local pubs; drinkable but unremarkable.
At
the premium end of their offerings there are however several award-winning
wines available at around £24 a bottle.
Plantaže
Wines, Put Radomira Ivanovića, br.2, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38220658028
Mola
Family Vineyards
Situated
in the Podgorica wine region this sizeable family-owned estate is situated in
the picturesque village of Rogami. Just minutes away from the ruins of the
Roman village Duklja, the mountainous setting makes for prime wine growing
conditions, with the sun- drenched surroundings cultivating excellent grape
crops. The Mola family produce a variety of wines including a merlot, a
cabernet sauvignon, and a white and red blend.
Mola
Family Vineyards, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38267867691
Radevic
Estate
This
small, family run vineyard lies just outside of Podgorica city is also in the
village of Rogami. The Radevik family pride themselves on their ability to grow
and produce original, quality wines using sustainable, organic farming
techniques. The wines produced here include a blend of Vranac, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Syrah. There is a comfortable guest house situated on the grounds of the
estate, and watch out for their super-strength Rakiji.
Radevic
Estate, Rogami-Piperi bb, Podgorica, Montenegro. +382-69-276-055
Vinarija
Bogojević
This
family-run vineyard boasts generations of wine-making experience. Their rustic,
homely estate and flourishing vineyard produces a celebrated Bogdan wine, a
dense, dark red with hints of vanilla, blueberry, and cassis. As well as wine,
Vinarija Bogojević also produces grappa in both a traditional and herbal
variety. With beautiful views over Skadar Lake, this vineyard provides its visitors
with experiences to remember.
Vinarija
Bogojević, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38267533001
Castel
Savina
Castel
Savina is situated in the historic region of Herceg-Novi, an area of historical
significance in Montenegro featuring a beautiful monastery founded by the Duke
of Saint Sava. With breath-taking views over the Bay of Kotor, Castel Savina’s luscious
greenery and impressive surroundings provide an ideal backdrop for wine
tasting. Producing a range which includes a Merlot, a Cabernet Sauvignon, a Grenache
rosé and a Chardonnay, there is something for everyone here. The winemakers
employ techniques perfected over years in the industry to produce excellent,
first-rate products every time. Castel Savina is a family run venue, the only
winery in the bay of Kotor and on the Montenegrin coast in general.
Tours
by reservation only.
Castel
Savina, Branka Ćopića 7d, Herceg Novi, Montenegro +382 69 042022
Milović
Winery
This
substantial vineyard and olive plantation produces around 20,000 bottles of
wine a year, and is nestled just outside of Ulcinj, the Southernmost town in
Montenegro. A thriving seaside region famous for its unspoiled beaches, the
area provides ideal conditions for growing grapes. Generating a number of
Barrique-stored red wines, the traditional Vranacs here are rich and dark ruby
coloured, combining a mixture of forest fruit, cranberry and vanilla flavours. Guests
can also stay in the Milović Winery’s apartment complex, with its own tennis
court and swimming pool overlooking the gorgeous Montenegrin wine country. Be
sure to enjoy a glass in their rustic, cosy wine cellar.
Milović
Winery, Briska Gora, Ulcinj, Montenegro. +38267350526
Winery
Mašanović
Winery
Mašanović is situated in the small town of Virpazar on Lake Skadar, the largest
lake in the Balkan peninsula, and a vast national park that in 2011 was
nominated as a UNESCO world heritage site. The beauty of the surroundings make
this vineyard a stunning place to explore, and the mild climate and natural
fertility of the soil make for robust and tasty wines with unique flavours.
Established in 1969, this vineyard and winery grows six type of grapes and
specialises in the traditional Montenegrin Vranec wine, a dark red variety with
flavours of dark chocolate, fruit and burnt oak. Also produced here are a range
of brandies, as well as cherry and walnut liqueurs made from organic fruits
grown on the property.
This
family-owned winery has the longest tradition in winemaking and wine growing in
Montenegro and is known for its dry red wines which take on a deep dark red
hue, with purple tones. Here I was able to sample many of their barrique aged
wines.
KRIN
barrique is their top level dry red wine, made from Vranac. On the palate the
wine tastes like burnt oak (they use French barriques), with raspberry and
cranberry fruit flavours.
DIONIS
barrique – made by blending 3 grape varieties, Vranac, Marselan and Petit
Verdot.
BUĆA
barrique – made from a blend of 5 grape varieties, Vranac, Marselan, Petit
Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. This is produced in limited
quantities of just 500 bottles, and is characterised by dark chocolate and
cinnamon aromas which follow through on the palate.
TRE
SORELLE barrique (semi-sweet) - the late harvesting of selected berries
increases naturally the concentration of sugar in for this blend of Marselan,
Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Full bodied, round and complex with a rich
fruity-creamy aftertaste and chocolate finish.
Winery
Mašanović, Virpazar, Montenegro. ++382069063460
www.
masanovic.blogspot.com
The
Sjekloća Estate
This
winery produces just a few thousand bottles of wine a year, giving it an air of
exclusivity. Vineyard owner Milenko K. Sjekloća was born in Crmnica, the heart
of Montenegrin wine country, and has a reputation for unbeatable wine
knowledge. His expertise has enabled him to create truly original and
innovative flavours of wine at his estate. The traditional Vranac wine here is
aged for 12 months before bottling, and the cellar boasts a large number of
vintage bottles varying in type and taste.
For
€50 visitors can tour the vineyards and cellar with the expert guidance of the
owner, taste t3 vintage wines and obtain wines not available of the open
market.
The
Sjekloća Estate, Milenko Sjekloća,Limljani bb, Virpazar, Montenegro.
+382020712
231
Rupice
Winery
With
a rich history dating back to the early 20th century, the wines of Rupice
Winery have been internationally renowned since they were first sampled at the
Balkan Wine Fair in London, back in 1907. Located in Rupice Komanske just west
of Podgorica, the owners here produce premium quality wine and brandy with the
help of the area’s microclimate.
Respecting
the traditional methods implemented by the winery’s first owners, Rupice cultivates
its grapes in limited quantities to prevent overproduction, and practices
biodynamic farming methods. Their Di Vine branded red wine has a rich fruity
aroma, cherry taste and velvety texture.
Rupice
Winery,b13 Moskovska, Podgorica, Montenegro +38268313068
Vinarija
Buk
This
private vineyard and winery lies in the village of Bukovik, also in the famous
Crmnica wine growing region, with a total grapevine count of over 6000. The
Vinarija Buk wines include a traditional Vranac, an enticing Marselan, and a
medium-bodied French wine grape variety first developed by crossing a Cabernet Sauvignon
with a black Grenache.
Vinarija
Buk, Bukovik, Montenegro. +38267528853.
With
building work being carried out at some pace across Montenegro, due to inward
investment taking advantage of the favourable tax system here, I fear for the future
of the unspoilt areas of this beautiful country. My advice, visit as soon as
you can before the high-rise hotels fully take hold.




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