Fruity Summer Tipples

Writing this with the promise of hot and sunny days ahead, it doesn’t take much for me to yearn for the long cool drinks that can be enjoyed outside in the garden, on picnics in the park or by the beach, without it going straight to our heads.

English fruit and flower wines have long since shrugged off the bad press they suffered in the 70s and 80s, before we all became sophisticated wine lovers. On the domestic front there are a number of local ‘wine clubs’ who take their wine making very seriously indeed.
The revival of this British tradition has caught on with professional producers, who have cornered the commercial ‘country wine’ market, and branched into producing an increasing range of liqueurs. These versions are ideal for something to satisfy a sweet tooth after dinner, or to pour over ice cream to turn a pud into something special. I find they also make interesting and inexpensive gifts for overseas visitors.
Thought to have been developed as fruit-flavoured versions of mead before sugar came onto the scene, 'country wines' are usually disdained by more sophisticated wine drinkers.
Getting the balance between acidity and sweetness right is the key to quality, as most tend to be off-dry or medium sweet. In the past these wines were fairly high in alcohol at 14%, but makers are now moving towards lighter, less cloying versions. The still varieties are usually served at room temperature, and not for quaffing in any quantity but they do provide the ideal base for refreshing spritzers; great served in long tall glasses with plenty of ice, topped up with lemonade or sparkling water, with a sprig of mint or a twist of lemon to finish it off.
The liqueur versions make a perfect after dinner tipple, or yummy additions to turn simple puddings into something more refined and grown-up.
There are a number of companies now offering these ‘country wines’, but to keep it local both Avalon Vineyard and Lyme Bay Winery produce a wide range, including some new additions for this season. They are available in good independent shops from around £7.50 a bottle.
Here are some of my favourite summery ones.

Apricot – medium sweet and a beautiful golden colour; this would be a good match for poached apricots with crème fraiche, or poured over apricot sorbet, but it is best served instead of dessert, and also good with goat’s cheese. 

Birch – This delicate, crisp, light-bodied dry white wine is lovely with simple seafood dishes or as an aperitif.
Cherry – Full flavoured and sweet, this would be great to go with cherries Jubilee, and could easily replace cherry brandy in any recipe.
Elderflower – A classic ‘country wine’ with a fresh perfumed floral bouquet; it is crisp and dry and goes well with oriental dishes, or even elderflower fritters for a posh pud.
Gooseberry – Off-dry and light-bodied, its ripe fruit flavour makes it a fine accompaniment to strongly flavoured foods (mackerel with gooseberries is a classic dish) or spicy dishes, such as Indian or Chinese.
Peach – Medium sweet and full of soft fruit flavour; I’m thinking Peach Melba here.
Strawberry – What would an English summer be without strawberries? This wine is medium sweet, and a spritzer made with this would provide a less alcoholic alternative to Pimm’s; while you sit back and watch the tennis perhaps?