Tuesday 26 June 2018

Vegan Wines

Article in Somerset Living - July 2018 

There seems to be a heightened interest in vegan food, as shown in a recent Somerset Living article. Eating and drinking habits that were once thought to be just a passing phase for those keen to latch onto the latest fad, are now increasingly mainstream. It seems to me that in our increasingly chaotic lives, a move towards a more ethical lifestyle can only be a good thing both for ourselves and the planet.

It is no surprise then that our supermarkets have been quick to recognise this trend and have been keen to jump on the band wagon.

Vegans to tend to be much more particular than the rest of us when it comes to what they eat and drink, as animal products are included in the production of many different types of food and drink, often in the most unexpected ways. When it comes to pleasing our guests’ dietary requirements though it can be easy to forget what’s in your wine rack.

Whether or not a wine is ‘vegan friendly’ very much depends upon the producer and the vintage. Whilst wine does not include animal products, it is the fining ingredients that are used in the winemaking process that often contain animal by-products.

With the exception of those of us who are fans of unfiltered wine, we expect our glass of wine to be clear rather than cloudy. Fining is the process used to help eliminate proteins, yeast and other molecules that can cloud the wine. The most common ingredients used in the fining process include casein, a milk protein, albumin, found in egg whites, gelatine and fish bladders. Although they are just processing agents, and do not remain in the wine, for strict vegans this is a definite no-no.

Fining is not essential, but it does speed up the winemaking process, enabling the sparklingly clear finished wine to hit our shelves that much quicker.
The good news for vegans is that carbon and clay based fining ingredients are being increasingly used but do be aware that not all wines labelled ‘organic’ or ‘biodynamic’ are necessarily vegan friendly, especially if ‘preparation 500’ is used, which is made from decomposed cow dung buried in a cow horn.

When it comes to complementing a vegan diet, you may be tempted to select a white wine rather than a heavier, “meatier” red, but do bear in mind that red wines can work well with hearty bean and lentil-based stews, mushrooms and aubergines. The Barnivore Vegan Alcohol Directory is a great website to visit with a database of over 38,000 vegan-friendly wines, beers and spirits. Just type in the name of any wine and it will tell you whether or not it is vegan.

Look out also for minimal-intervention wines that have lower levels of sulphur, such as Earth’s Essence, South African Shiraz, 14% abv. £6.99 produced for Aldi. Wood from Rooibos and Honeybush plants are used as natural anti-oxidants to preserve the wine, which has a juicy touch of sweetness along with the aroma of blackcurrant forest floor and spice.

Most supermarkets now offer a wide range of vegan wines. Notably, the Co-op has taken the lead in being open about listing ingredients in its own wines, 55% of which are now suitable for vegans, including their well-priced Irresistible Casablanca Valley Chilean Pinot Noir, 14% abv. £7.99.

At M&S just over half of their range is now suitable for vegans, including Barossa Valley, Viognier, Australia, 2017, 13%abv, £10. Silky smooth, with a typical aromatic apricot nose, it has enough body to go with the heartiest of vegan dishes. Waitrose boasts over 700 vegan wines in their range and their San Leo Brut NV Glera Italian Prosecco, 11%abv, £10.99 gets the thumbs up. Majestic has helpfully grouped its vegan range together, including a ‘meaty’ Vinalba Malbec Bonarda 2016, 14%abv, £9.99 from Argentina.

Sainsbury’s carries over 245 vegan wines, all clearly labelled as such. Their Taste the Difference Beaujolais-Villages Coteaux Gratiniques, 13% abv, £9, from one of oldest houses in Beaujolais at the foot of Mont Brouilly is made from quality grapes from vines grown on the ancient granite soils, which gives this wine its elegant and complex finesse.

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