Now that the fine weather is here and the ‘season’ has
started, popular seaside holiday destinations will have been dusting off the
cobwebs, stocking up on sticks of rock and buckets and spades, and generally
gearing themselves up for a roaring trade this summer. With the remaining
uncertainty over Brexit and our country’s leadership, it is natural that many
of us will want to stay close to home.
Here in the South West we are blessed with a wide variety of
delightful rural and coastal places to visit with some stunning scenery, and
the prospect of a ‘fish and chip supper’ at the end of the day; greedy,
aggressive, greedy seagulls permitting!
Interestingly, the meal that most people worldwide associate
with us Brits did not originate here at all. According to the well-respected
food writer Claudia Roden, the idea of fried fish was brought here by
Portuguese Marrano Jewish refugees in the 16th century and apparently Joseph
Malin, a Jewish immigrant, was the first to sell fried fish and potatoes
together in his shop in London’s East End around 1860.
Modern lifestyles being what they are, long gone are the
days I remember from my childhood when Friday was always ‘fish and chips’
night.One of the things I recall from my childhood is that fish and chips was
always wrapped in newspaper, until the health and safety brigade poked their
noses in. Given our new level of environmental awareness perhaps it is
something that should be re-introduced.
I have never been much of a fan of mushy peas, but I do
confess to a liking for a slice of thick white buttered bread, with which to
make a chip butty!
The natural choice of beverage to wash it all down with is a
good strong cup of ‘builder’s’ tea. Nowadays though, in addition to the local
corner chippy, fish and chips, or versions of it, can found in virtually every
pub and ‘posh’ restaurant, preferably served with lovely thick, proper hand
cut, triple cooked chips (check out The Scallop Shell in Bath). It is then that
I want something else to tickle my taste buds, a nice glass of wine, or two, to
accompany my meal.
Whilst there are no hard and fast rules, wines work best
with fried foods if they are crisp, with good acidity, and refreshing on the
palate. White wine is most likely to fit the bill here, although a quality rosé
will not disappoint; just avoid those cheap and cheerful ones on the market
that tend to be overly sweet.
Sparkling wine is always a good match, as it cuts nicely
through the oiliness and, however humble the meal, Champagne seems to elevate
it to the height of sophistication. If funds allow, I do feel strongly that we
should be supporting our local industries and, although quite pricey, there are
some stunning sparkling wines now being made close to home.
On a budget? Well, we live in the South West so why not a
dry perry or cider to wash it all down with.
If your preference is not for bubbles, then a crisp, dry
Sauvignon Blanc will do the job nicely; the citrus notes and its acidity
provide the perfect foil that will stand up to tartare sauce too.
I am not really a fan of Chardonnay, but a simple unoaked
one, or a Chenin Blanc, will go well with the mushy peas.
I am however a huge fan of sherry and in Spain, where
deep-fried fish may well be one of the tapas on offer, a salty, tangy, fino or
manzanilla is a match made in heaven. The very special Manzanilla
Sanlucar de Barrameda is well worth seeking out. The special humid maritime
climate of this historic Andalucian coastal town yields a distinctive
refreshing, sea-scented Manzanilla Sherry.
The use of beer in the batter for frying cod and other white
fish is quite ‘on trend’, especially in those areas blessed with an independent
brewery, so why not have a glass of the beer that has been used in the batter?
Last but not least, especially for the kids, a bottle of
classic fizzy pop such as lemonade or a good old-fashioned cream soda (or Irn
Bru if you live north of the border), can be one of the best accompaniments to
a traditional fish supper.
And finally, to dispel a myth, whilst fish and chips may not
be considered ‘healthy’ food there are several studies that show that they are
in fact much lower in fat and calories than those other favourite late night
takeaways….burgers and pizzas.
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