A DROP IN THE OCEAN - UNDERWATER WINERIES

 

From time to time, stories of the discovery, and recovery, of precious cargoes of wine, brandy and other vintage tipples hit the headlines, often resulting in them being sold off at auction for huge sums of money. This, despite the fact that in many cases what’s inside the bottle may well be undrinkable. One way of assessing its drinkability before shelling out a whole load of cash is to use a device produced by Coravin, which is capable of extracting wine without removing the cork.

As recently as 2019, an expedition organised by Cookson Adventures, with the aid of various maritime and archaeological entities, including maritime exploration company 10994 Ltd., was undertaken to salvage cargo from a British ship torpedoed off the coast of Cornwall in 1918. The ship in question was a British cargo ship sailing from Bordeaux to the UK with a cargo of wine when it was sunk by a German U-boat.

This resulting haul of several hundred bottles of wine, Champagne and spirits was worth millions of pounds.

Rich pickings indeed for the small number of niche companies that specialise in such recovery operations.

Such exciting discoveries are more frequent than you might think.

For those lucky enough to be able to afford to participate in such adventures, it is a once in a lifetime opportunity to experience first-hand discoveries of great historical significance.

Also in 2019, a team from specialist salvage company Ocean X recovered 900 bottles of booze that had been on board the Swedish ship S.S. Kyros, sunk by a German submarine in 1917 during World War I, on its way to deliver its cargo to Tzar Nicholas II, and now lying at the bottom of the Baltic Sea.

The team, used remote-controlled vehicles in order to retrieve the bottles as the depth, and  condition of the ship and the surroundings of the wreck made the scenario too dangerous even for trained deep divers.

Ocean X was also behind the recovery of the 300 year old “shipwreck wine” found in the North Sea. These surviving bottles of wine, auctioned by Christie’s, fetched thousands of pounds each. A single bottle of Veuve Clicquot found in the wreckage sold for almost £30,000.

Back to the 21^st century.

In the deep, freezing cold, dark waters of the Baltic Sea and the North Sea, items are to all intents and purposes in cold storage. This has prompted some entrepreneurs to exploit the sea’s cool, dark environment and invest in underwater wineries as conditions in the sea are felt to mimic key ageing factors that impact on the wine.

In 2008, Emmanuel Poirmeur, of winery Egiategia, began submerging sparkling wines in France’s bay of Saint Jean de Luz, lured by what he described as the perfect conditions for secondary fermentation. The unpredictable nature of the process soon had him hooked. “If I put 20 wine tanks below the sea, all exactly the same, they’ll all come back different,” he said.

So, working with a small team, which included diver Borja Saracho, he gained permission to rent 500 square metres of seabed in the bay of Plentzia on Spain’s north coast and formed Crusoe Treasure. They sank specially designed structures capable of storing wine, which also acted as an artificial reef. Winemakers across the country soon joined in the experiment, sending bottles of wine for Saracho to plunge into the sea.

The results were astounding, and the development of the wines described as being very distinct from what would happen with the same grape on land.

Similar experiments have been carried out in other parts of the world, providing a cornerstone for what is now a niche and rapidly growing sector of the wine industry. Both in Europe and in the new world winemakers are utilising the power of underwater environments to shape their wines.

The logic behind the theory is that is that underwater conditions, such as constant temperature and the absence of light, mimic two of the vital ageing factors that contribute so much to the development of the wine.

The technique does come at a cost though. The logistics of submerging and retrieving wine, along with the increased risk of breakage and leaks can increase production costs by as much as 70%.

Among those turning to underwater ageing are some of the wine industry’s biggest players. Louis Roederer (of Cristal champagne fame), made headlines when it began using the waters off Mont Saint-Michel as an underwater cellar. Likewise, an experiment by Veuve Clicquot, saw them sinking a champagne-filled vault into the Baltic Sea.

As the sector grows, techniques are varying wildly. Some winemakers sink their wines in sealed amphorae, while others use custom-designed barrels or submersible cages laden with algae-encrusted bottles. Others have shunned marine environments and opted for water-filled tanks on land in shallower water, leaving the wine at the mercy of rising tides and partial exposure to air.

In 2019 the first-ever underwater wine congress was held in northern Spain, with the aim of ensuring a responsible approach to the marine environment, as concern about climate change increases, bringing with it a wider range of water temperatures and an increase in the number of violent weather patterns. At Crusoe Treasure, the underwater cellars are fitted with sensors, providing first-hand knowledge of how the environment is being transformed.

For wine lovers interested in experiencing these extraordinary wines go to

https://underwaterwine.com

Sea Soul No4, is a limited-edition offering from the winery (£58.50) raised to the surface after ageing underwater for six months. Made from 100% Syrah obtained from the vineyards of Álex Ascaso, who is passionate about environmental sustainability, respect for tradition and experimentation. The vineyards at Ayerbe, north of the Monegros and at the foot of the Loarre Mountains, are influenced by the warm southerly winds and in contrast to the northern cierzo from the mountains. A privileged environment where the grapes can mature expressing their full potential.

And where the human hand brings the result to a close.

Statement from Linda Vijeh following last night's SSDC full council meeting

 Following the outcome and statements made at last night’s South Somerset District Council meeting in relation to the motion of no confidence in the leadership of Cllr. Val Keitch, put forward by Cllr. Martin Wale, I feel that I must put the record straight. 

In responding to the motion, Cllr. Keitch stated that the offer of the position of CEO to Clare Pestell was withdrawn once the serious nature of the allegations made against her became known. 

This is not accurate. SSDC announced on 4th June 2021 that ‘Clare Pestell has decided that for personal reasons she will not now be taking up the position’. No mention was made in the communication to members of the offer being withdrawn by SSDC, as stated by Cllr. Keitch. The was also clarified with me during a virtual meeting between myself and the then CEO, Alex Parmley that same day. 

As late as 8th July, despite asking the question on a number of occasions, I had still not been able to find out why Clare Pestell had resigned.  

What does not seem to have been mentioned, is the fact that on at least one occasion the CEO had stayed and received hospitality at Clare Pestell’s vineyard, but did not declare this. 

Furthermore, after an Ilminster Town Council meeting at the end of last year I asked Cllr. Keitch outright ‘If there had not been a whistle blower, would we have discovered this?’ Her response was emphatic ‘Yes, we already had our suspicions.’ This is at odds with comments made by Cllr. Keitch at this week’s meeting. 

It has been suggested that initially it was felt that the anonymous letter may have been sent maliciously, but I can confirm that there had been many attempts, over a long period of time, to alert the CEO of concerns over corruption and fraud, none of which were heeded.   

During last night’s full council meeting my name was mentioned on a number of occasions, particularly in relation to the fact that some years ago, in 2013, I used the services of members of SSDC’s Street Scene to chop down trees at my property in France. I can confirm that the work carried out was done over a weekend, not in working time, by two members of staff, using private transport, and that no money changed hands. As mentioned by a fellow councillor, I have always been very open about this, given that I had nothing to hide and no wrong doing had taken place. 

During the investigation into Clare Pestell’s actions, and at the appeal hearing, when it became clear that members of the Street Scene team were under investigation, I immediately offered to declare my interest, and was told that it was not necessary to do so as the appeal hearing related just to Clare Pestell. 

Finally, it has been suggested that Cllr. Wale’s motion was brought about for political reasons given the upcoming by-election for my Neorche ward seat. This is not the case at all, rather it seems to me that the issue is being politicised by those SSDC councillors who refuse to acknowledge the failings of their own authority.  

To Vax or Not to Vax

Tennis star Novac Djokovic’s announcement this week clarifying his stance concerning the Covid vaccine, and his reasons for not wanting to have it, has caused some controversy. This is worth mentioning as he is seen as a role model for many people who may be hesitant to accept it. Had he explained this last month, when trying to get permission to stay in Australia, he might have saved us all a lot of airtime. 

Whilst I am not anti-vaccine, I do have some sympathy with him. To be honest, I am ambivalent.  

For the last two years we have all been living through unprecedented and turbulent times. The need for swift action has meant that the ability to devise a vaccine as a matter of urgency has rightly gained much acclaim and applause. However, as has often been the case in the past, such a rapid response can have its drawbacks. We are unlikely to see any potential long-term repercussions manifest themselves for some time. 

I was prompt in having my first two Astra-Zeneca jabs, thankfully without any side effects at all. However, this was not the case with the Moderna booster jab which knocked me for six, laying me low for days and with ongoing symptoms since then. I am not at all sure that I will now be so willing to have a further booster should it be offered. 

Fearful of catching Covid, largely due to long-term respiratory problems, I am all too aware that the only person who can protect my health is myself. Hence, I have been very cautious about where I go, and who I mix with. Apart from the period when we were in full lockdown, I have largely been able to go about my business and do test regularly. 

But, having said that, I firmly believe that all businesses, entertainment venues, health providers, employers and employees do have the right to be protected where possible. If this means that in some cases freedom of movement means agreeing to succumb to the Covid vaccine, then that has to be respected. Whilst Novac has every right to refuse the vaccine, he cannot expect to then be granted the same freedoms as those of us who are willing to take the risk of being vaccinated. Yes, there may be as yet unknown long-term consequences but to protect my health in the here and now, it is a risk I am willing to take.

Kate wants to step into Linda's shoes!

In the wake of my decision to step back from public life at the beginning of the year, after almost 20 years of representing the four villages that form Neroche ward (Ashill, Broadway, Donyatt and Horton), I am delighted that Kate Wylie Carrick has stepped up to the plate and has agreed to put herself forward as a candidate in the upcoming by-election, to be held on 3rd March. 

As many people will be aware, I continue to be active within these communities and intend to be so for the foreseeable future, supporting Kate in her efforts to represent local residents, to listen to their concerns and actively ensure that their voices are heard.

The last two years have been tough for us all, but in the case of South Somerset District Council this has been exacerbated by recent revelations concerning corruption and fraud, which coupled with a number of controversial planning issues in the ward, has meant that many residents feel that they have not been well served by our local authority. I feel confident that Kate will continue my legacy of impartiality and integrity in being the true voice of all residents.

I will not be whipped

 

Amid the current furore over the behaviour of political enforcers, otherwise known as party whips, I came across the quote ‘Whoever allows himself to be whipped deserves to be whipped.’ A sentiment I thoroughly endorse.  

Despite being on the fringes of the political arena for almost 20 years, I have never allowed myself to be whipped, either physically or metaphorically. When I became political group leader for our district council some years ago, the first thing I did was to remove the whip. I strongly believe that if it is felt that a particular stance or course of action needs to be taken it is incumbent upon the leader to persuade, not force, their political bedfellows to go along with it. As a leader one should seek to achieve a level of respect, not grudging agreement. 

Whilst it is necessary for our rulers to be able to ensure compliance amongst their political allies, particularly when wishing to push legislation through parliament, it is no mere coincidence that one definition of the term ‘whip’ refers to someone who imposes their will by violence and intimidation. When what amounts to bullying and coercive tactics are used, which in my experience happens at every level of government, we are no better than the leaders of other countries that we criticise; Russia and China spring readily to mind.    

Certainly, I have seen instances of where those who do tow-the-line, regardless of their skills, knowledge and experience, tend to get offered the plum jobs. 

Personally, I would rather retain a level of integrity. 

The Olive Tree Restaurant, Bath - Review

 

Bugger the Covid booster jab. Like a good citizen it turned out to be more like a lamb being led to slaughter. I went down like a ton of bricks, was bedridden for a week and a month later I have still lost my appetite; not good for someone who eats out professionally five days a week. 

But no matter…. I have spent a good deal of time in Bath in recent years, and in the run up to Christmas, I had the pleasure of visiting the kitchen at The Olive Tree restaurant at The Queensbury Hotel to assess one of their apprentices. This was coincidentally one of the hotels on my patch as an AA Hotel & Restaurant inspector many years go, and one where I have fond memories of my inspection.

Had my bank balance been healthier, I would certainly have liked to stay overnight but contented myself with a pre-Christmas treat of a meal at Bath’s only Michelin starred restaurant. On my previous visit a week or so earlier I had been impressed by the kitchen set up overseen by Head Chef Chris Cleghorn, who heads up a brigade of eight. 

I get to see a lot of kitchens, many of which are so chaotic I am left wondering how on earth they manage to pull a meal together. In this case, on my previous visit, outside of service hours, I noticed the calm, disciplined, working atmosphere generated by Chris; everyone going seamlessly about their business. He runs a tight ship.

I had been looking forward to sampling either the nine course or six course menus on offer at £120 or £95, with wine pairings to match. 

Under normal circumstances I would have been up for this, but due to my recent indisposition I opted for three starters and a dessert, along with a glass of Champagne. With a total bill of £86, including service, I felt that overall, this was good value for money.

Diners can also select à la carte options, and ‘fussy’ eaters can take advantage of menus offering vegetarian, vegan, pescatarian and dairy free options. There is even a well-priced children’s menu on offer; a practice I thoroughly approve of as I believe that all children should be introduced to fine dining as soon as possible. 

The subdued furnishings of the dining room do not detract from the dining experience but sadly as it was the restaurant is not disabled friendly. The staff however were professional and approachable, and extremely knowledgeable. Their product knowledge was good, and staff were able to describe the wine pairings on offer; I do love to cross examine them!

Pleasingly they were able to make guests feel welcome but did not cross the boundary between diner and waiter that I believe should be present in a professional establishment.  

Service was well-paced, and when it comes to grub, especially if eating alone, I eat at an Olympic pace.

As with other fine dining establishments I have been fortunate enough to experience recently, there were a number of Japanese patrons. Thankfully, in the tough times the hospitality industry has been experiencing as a result of Covid-19, this is one sector of tourist visitors that appears to be unafraid to brave our shores.

As a journalist and WSET wine tutor I was thrilled to discover the wide range of lovely wines on offer by the glass. Ordinarily, I would have taken advantage of the wine pairings on offer but settled instead for a glass of Champagne. With an eye on their income, one area of criticism was the absence of upselling to encourage me to order a second glass once I had finished.

Presentation throughout was exceptional, and a small fortune has obviously been spent on the china to enhance the appearance of dishes; one does eat with the eyes first after all. However, my main focus is always on the taste, and I was not disappointed.

One of the keys to assessing establishments in a professional capacity is the ability to be objective. There is real joy when something just hits the spot, but we all have personal preferences. It is the ability to judge competence and skill, both in terms of selecting top notch locally sourced ingredients, and then combining them in a way that enhances them is what results in a memorable meal.

The menu was pleasingly very seasonal, and changed regularly to reflect the best that is on offer, giving imaginative pairings of ingredients with a nod to the Orient.

I always love the ‘freebies’ that go with fine dining and my meal began with a single slice of smoked air-dried duck breast beautifully presented…I could have eaten much more!

I did however fully regret declining the homemade rolls on offer; rye with black treacle. The aroma from an adjoining table was irresistible.

My meal began with a single diced raw Orkney scallop, served in its shell with wasabi mayonnaise, dill, and a granny smith apple granita. This was clearly a nod to a similar dish served at the Two Michelin star restaurant Patrick Guilbaud in Dublin, one of my favourites.

Overall, this was my favourite dish of the meal. Fresh and clean, the hot kick of the wasabi providing a perfect contrast to the cool granita. If I had been preparing this, I might have cut the scallop into translucent slices rather than dice it. 

One of the elements noticeable throughout my meal, and in observing other dishes, was that several dishes are finished at the table, in this case with the granita, as well as sauces and other elements, including caviar. This might have come across as pretentious, but it merely formed part of the theatre that was being created to ensure that diners had a memorable experience. 

I had asked for tasting size portions and my next choice was smoked eel with leek and a chicken and tarragon sauce. A well thought out combination, but given the restaurant’s aspirations for two Michelin stars, I would hope that consideration would be given to smoking their own meat and fish. I also found the dish a little on the salty side for my taste.

I followed this with veal sweetbread with black garlic, Westcombe ricotta and preserved lemon. This was skilfully cooked, but I did struggle to appreciate the marriage between the two key ingredients.

I conclude my meal with Islands Chocolate, yoghurt sorbet, perilla (a grassy herb with notes of anise or liquorice) Manni olive oil (gold medal winning in 2021). The textures of this dish, the soft oozing mousse contrasting with the cocoa nibs and the cool sorbet, made this a great way to finish a first-rate meal.

However, the experience was not over yet, a shiny red pair of salted caramel lips accompanied the bill!

I cannot wait to return once my appetite is fully restored.

As always I pay for my own meals, without accepting hospitality, and dining anonymously where possible, although in this case I had to pull rank to get a table as the restaurant is so popular!

KNOWING WHEN TO QUIT WHILE YOU ARE AHEAD

 

Instilled with a high level of self-confidence, thanks to my mother, I am not renowned for my humility. Having decided to step down from my involvement in local politics after almost 20 years I have been truly humbled by the enormous number of accolades I have received, both on social media, by email, and from those who have taken the trouble to write me personal messages. 

Whilst I do not regret my actions, my decision has got me thinking about those of us in a position of power and influence who cling on with their finger-tips way past their sell-by date. All too often, in both politics and in business, we are witness to those who refuse to quit because their own egos get in the way of progress and a refusal to acknowledge their own failings. 

If I have learnt anything at all in the past few weeks, it is to quit while you are ahead. If I am to personally benefit from such tributes, and bask in the resulting glow, I am delighted that they have been expressed long before I am six feet under.