Wednesday, 9 August 2023
Charging single diners double?
Friday, 4 August 2023
Searing Grapes: The Impact of High Temperatures on the Wine Industry in Europe
Whilst some of us enjoy basking in the warmer weather (not
me!) we cannot ignore the fact that this summer has proved to be a bit of a
scorcher, with temperatures breaking records in many parts of the world.
Naturally, I am interested in the impact this might have on my favourite
beverage, wine. The wine industry in Europe, which has been flourishing for
centuries, is facing unprecedented challenges due to climate change. As global
warming intensifies, European vineyards are grappling with rising temperatures,
changing weather patterns, and extreme heat events. This can have far-reaching
consequences for the wine industry in terms of vine cultivation, grape quality,
wine production, and the overall economic and cultural landscape of the
continent.
Traditionally, European wine regions thrived in temperate
climates with mild summers and cool nights, creating optimal conditions for
grape cultivation. However, with temperatures soaring, many vineyards are now
facing difficulties in growing grape varieties that were once well-suited to
the region's conditions. The heat stresses the vines, leading to premature
ripening, stunted growth, and reduced yields. Vineyard owners and winemakers
are left with the difficult choice of either adapting to new grape varieties or
relocating to higher altitudes and cooler regions.
High temperatures during the growing season can severely
impact grape quality. Extreme heat can cause dehydration and sugar
concentration in the grapes, resulting in higher alcohol levels in the wine;
hence the higher alcohol content of wines from Australia and California, for
example. The natural acidity that gives European wines their characteristic
balance and complexity may decrease, leading to wines that lack structure and
freshness. The delicate aromas and flavours that make European wines
sought-after may also be altered or diminished, impacting the wine's overall
sensory profile.
As temperatures rise and traditional grape varieties
struggle to cope, winemakers are adapting their practices to remain
competitive. Some wineries are exploring new cultivation techniques, such as
shading the vines or altering the trellising systems to protect the grapes from
excessive heat exposure. Others are opting for advanced irrigation methods to
counteract water stress and maintain grape quality. In some cases, winemakers
are turning to innovative technologies and viticultural practices to mitigate
the effects of heat on their vineyards.
The combination of higher alcohol levels and altered grape
characteristics is leading to shifts in wine styles and taste profiles.
European winemakers are experimenting with earlier harvests to preserve acidity
and control alcohol levels. Consequently, wines may be lighter in body and show
different aromatic and flavour profiles compared to their traditional
counterparts. While these adaptations can result in interesting new wines, they
also pose challenges for preserving the unique heritage and identity of
European wine regions.
The wine industry is a cornerstone of European culture and
heritage, contributing significantly to the continent's economy. High
temperatures and the resulting changes in grape cultivation and wine production
can have a profound economic impact on the industry. Smaller vineyards, which
often rely on traditional methods and grape varieties, are particularly
vulnerable to the effects of climate change. The economic viability of these
vineyards may be at risk, potentially leading to the loss of local jobs and a
decline in the cultural significance of wine in the region.
To address the challenges posed by high temperatures, the wine industry in Europe is taking a multi-faceted approach. Sustainable and organic farming practices are being promoted to maintain soil health and improve vine resilience. Research and development are ongoing to identify and breed grape varieties that can better withstand heat stress while preserving the region's wine characteristics. Additionally, regional and international cooperation is crucial in sharing knowledge and best practices for climate change adaptation. Only through collaborative efforts, innovative solutions, and sustainable practices can European winemakers safeguard their heritage while embracing a changing climate.
For wine drinkers, all is not lost however. In hot climates,
certain grape varieties have demonstrated a remarkable ability to thrive and
produce quality wines despite the challenging conditions. These grape varieties
have evolved and adapted to withstand heat stress, making them well-suited for
vine cultivation in warmer regions. Some of the grape varieties that do best in
hot climates, which surprisingly include several white varieties,
include:
Vermentino/Rolle: a white grape variety commonly
found in Mediterranean regions like Sardinia, Corsica, and Southern France. It
is renowned for its ability to retain acidity in hot climates, resulting in
refreshing white wines with citrus and stone fruit notes.
Viognier: one of my favourite varieties, a white
grape variety that excels in warm climates, particularly in regions like the
Rhône Valley in France and certain parts of California. It produces aromatic
wines with floral and tropical fruit characteristics.
Assyrtiko: Assyrtiko: another white grape
variety, and native to the Greek island of Santorini. It is incredibly
resilient to hot, arid conditions and volcanic soils, producing crisp and
mineral-driven wines with citrus and saline notes.
Grenache/Garnacha: a red grape variety that is
known for its ability to endure high temperatures and drought conditions. It is
widely cultivated in regions like Southern France (e.g., Rhône Valley,
Languedoc-Roussillon), Spain (e.g., Priorat, Rioja, Navarra), and Australia.
Grenache-based wines often exhibit bold fruit flavours, spice, and moderate
tannins.
Carignan/Cariñena: another red grape variety
that is well-suited for hot climates. It is often found in blends, particularly
in Southern France and Spain. Carignan is valued for its ability to maintain
acidity and produce wines with vibrant red fruit characteristics.
Mourvèdre/Monastrell: a heat-loving red grape
variety commonly grown in Southern France, Spain, and some parts of Australia.
It thrives in warm, arid conditions and produces wines with intense dark fruit
flavours and spice, often with a robust tannic structure.
Zinfandel: Zinfandel: a red grape variety native
to California, USA. It performs exceptionally well in hot regions like the
Central Valley and is the primary grape used in the production of the famous
"California Zinfandel" wines. Zinfandel wines are known for their
bold, jammy fruit flavours and high alcohol content.
Tempranillo: Tempranillo: is the flagship red grape
variety of Spain, known for its prominent role in wines from Rioja and Ribera
del Duero. It can handle hot summers and is valued for its versatility, capable
of producing a range of styles from light and fruity to deeply structured
wines.
Malbec: a red grape variety originally from
France, but which has found great success in Argentina, especially in the
Mendoza region. In Argentina's high-altitude vineyards, Malbec thrives in the
hot, sunny climate, resulting in rich, fruity wines with velvety tannins.
Tinta Barroca: a red grape variety primarily
grown in Portugal's Douro Valley, where it plays a crucial role in the
production of Port wines. It is well-suited for the hot and dry conditions of
the region.
These grape varieties have not only adapted to hot climates
but have also gained recognition for their ability to produce distinctive and
appealing wines, showcasing the diverse range of flavours and styles that can
be achieved in warmer viticultural areas.
Wednesday, 3 May 2023
LINDA PIGGOTT – PAUL HARRIS FELLOW AWARD
LINDA PIGGOTT – PAUL HARRIS FELLOW AWARD
THE ROTARY CLUB OF ILMINSTER CITATION
Rotary established the Paul Harris recognition in 1957 to encourage and show appreciation for substantial contributions to what was then the Foundation’s only programme, Rotary Foundation Fellowships for Advanced Study, the precursor to Ambassadorial Scholarships.
‘When we decide to award a Paul Harris Fellowship it is the practice of the Rotary Club of Ilminster to put together a brief explanation of why the person concerned is worth one. To make it more the club likes to keep the recipient guessing until as late in the spiel as they can.
This new Paul Harris Fellow is a Past President and has been a real force in and for the Ilminster Club since joining in 2002. There was always a popular misconception that Rotarians were middle class old men in grey suits, well-meaning but dull; not this one! For a start this recipient was the first member of the club without a y chromosome. She was and is outrageous, outspoken and utterly unconventional. She put others to shame with her restless energy. She bared her all in the national press campaigning for better breast cancer treatment, abseiling down County Hall for charity, cooking for the King of the Gypsies, teaching immigrants and convicts. She is the only member the club is ever likely to have who had a cow named after her by the African villagers in Nairobi, to whom it was sent to provide for hungry children. She went to Africa to see the toilets the club was trying to get replaced, and to India to see the school for young women the club was supporting through a literacy project. Very occasionally she was at home.
Nearer to home, she served the community on every possible local council and was hugely respected by all as someone who would move heaven and earth to get things done. No problem was too small for her to worry about or too big for her to shun. Some weeks the local press seemed to be full of her and she won the Ilminster club a national award for outstanding publicity.
That was the bit everyone heard about, but she did so much more that never appeared in the press. She gave up hours of the time she hadn’t got to the Samaritans. She helped countless individuals in need and those the system fails with selfless, patient kindness. Her version of ‘Service Above Self’ was so intense that, at times, the club was genuinely concerned for the one person she did not seem to take care of… herself.
It would be hard to imagine a more deserving Paul Harris Fellow than Linda Piggott.’
Wednesday, 22 February 2023
GIVE ME MOOR
GIVE ME MOOR- SPOILT FOR CHOICE
Although mainly travelling for pleasure these days, old
habits die hard. As a professional hotel and restaurant inspector, I have
sampled the full spectrum;
eating and drinking, and staying in hotels, pubs and, on
occasion, some rather dubious establishments, for as long as I can
remember.
As an occasional viewer of TV programme ‘Four in a Bed’, I
do get cross with the nit-picking attitude of the combatants, where a stray
hair takes on a level of importance far out of proportion.
I am not easy to please and my list my list of must-haves is
endless. In exchange for spending our hard-earned cash on a few days away from
our normal daily routine, we all want different things, often at different
times.
Often when deciding where to stay we focus, wrongly to my
mind, on an establishment’s star rating, or reviews on social media sites. Some
of my most enjoyable experiences have been in the humblest of places. Having
stayed and eaten in thousands of places over the best part of 30 years, those
that stick in my memory are regrettably few and far between.
I have never been a sun, sea and sand kind of person, and in
recent months I have been overjoyed to have the opportunity to spend a good
deal of time on Dartmoor.
I find the setting of the often desolate, wild and woolly
landscape of Dartmoor truly stunning in all weathers; it never fails to make me
gasp in and catch my breath.
On a good day, just an hour and a half from home, it makes
for a splendid day trip, but having made the trek, I prefer to spend a little longer
there; naturally I need somewhere to rest my weary head, and to nourish my
greedy stomach, in addition to my soul.
The ancient stannary and market town of Tavistock, with a
population of just 11,000, makes the perfect base for getting out and about,
although do be aware that parking in town can be a nightmare.
Here are some of my favourite discoveries, all of which I
have enjoyed in person over the last few months, most of which, thankfully, are
open on Sunday evenings and in the early part of the week; a rare find these
days.
Queen’s Head,79-80
West St, Tavistock PL19 8AQ. Tel. 01822 612455
This is a popular Wetherspoon’s pub situated on the main
street. To be honest I am not usually a fan of this type of place, BUT the
rooms are very well equipped (feather pillows and duvets, bottled water,
biscuits, walk in shower) and excellent value for money.
Cornish Arms, 15
West St, Tavistock PL19 8AN Tel. 01822 612145
Just a hop and a skip from the Queen’s Head (with pricy
accommodation) this pub is so named as it was the last coaching inn before
Cornwall. Recommended by Michelin, I have really enjoyed all of the food I have
sampled, using seasonal ingredients prepared with innovation. For this quality
I felt that the prices were reasonable. A great British pub, serving good
honest food and drink in warm welcoming surroundings.
Bedford Hotel, 1
Plymouth Rd, Tavistock PL19 8BB Tel. 01822 613221
This classic traditional hotel right in the centre of town,
is the place to be seen in Tavistock (and has parking!), and along with its
sister hotel, Two Bridges (see below), has become my go-to place for a
comfortable night’s stay. Overseen by Sarah Howard, who is very hands on, this
is a real family enterprise, and very well run. Staff are friendly and helpful,
and the food is pretty good too, especially when I can have eggs Benedict or
smoked haddock for breakfast!
Two Bridges Hotel, Dartmoor PL20
6SW Tel.: 01822 892300
This sister hotel to The Bedford is right in the heart of
Dartmoor, on the banks of the West Dart River. With geese and ducks on the
lawn, and a landscape of roaming sheep and ponies within touching distance,
with a roaring log fire, award winning food (including pancakes by special
request on Pancake Day!), and Jail Ale from their own Dartmoor Brewery, what’s
not to love?
Hotel Endsleigh, Milton Abbot, Tavistock PL19 0PQ
Tel.: 01822 870000
Set in 100 acres of fairy tale gardens, woodlands, follies
and grottos created by Humphry Repton, and part of the Polizzi Collection, I
could not resist a little detour to have Sunday lunch. Food is beautifully
prepared and pleasingly, there is no multi-course set menu; sandwiches and
salads are on offer for those with smaller appetites.
Horn of Plenty, B3362, Tavistock PL198JD Tel. 01822 832528
Here is where I took a trip down memory lane. In the early
1980s, at a time when, owned by Sonia Stevenson and her eccentric husband
Patrick, this was consistently gaining awards I attended one of her residential
‘Courses for Sauces’, a wonderful experience I have never forgotten. Since then,
I have been back several times, but not recently. It was like stepping back in
time, as virtually nothing had changed. Although it has had several new owners
over the years, the food served here continues to win awards, and their Charity
Lunches at £24 for two courses are good value for money.
Taylor’s, 22
Market St, Tavistock PL19 0DD Tel. 01822
613045
This lovely little restaurant, along with its sister
establishment, Church Lane, serves imaginative food, sourcing ingredients from
small, local suppliers and produce wonderful seasonal menus. Prices are
moderate and the quality is consistent.
Church Lane, 1 Church
Lane 22 Market Street, Tavistock PL19 8AA
Tel.: 01822 610413
This has become one of my favourite go-to places. In
addition to food served all day long, in this stunning Georgian property
adjacent to the church, they have an extensive rum list, and authentic Italian
style pizzas, all named after famous cyclists (30% off on Tuesdays). There are
also salads, sharing boards and French crepes.
Peter Tavy Inn, Tavistock PL19 9NN Tel.:
01822 810348
I can recall inspecting this country pub when covering the
area as an AA inspector several decades ago. Clearly popular, their senior
citizen lunches are available for just £8, and proved to be too much for my
modest appetite.
Robertson’s,4-8
Pepper St, Tavistock PL19 0BD,
A local institution since 2006, this is the place to visit
for a lazy lunch, an evening meal with family, drinks with friends or for a
takeaway pizza. The restaurant is family-run and offers ‘food people can feel
good about’, with an emphasis on fresh, organic and locally sourced
ingredients.
Friday, 2 December 2022
The Story of the Christmas Tablecloth
Sunday, 20 November 2022
POLDEN WINES
Post pandemic, those businesses which have survived, and
many have not, are those that have taken the plunge to explore other options
that seem to have weathered the storm. One example of this locally is Polden
Wines, at Stocklands Vineyard, based in the Polden Hills, not far from
Bridgwater.
A recent visit with vine grower Sue Applegate, shows how
with passion and dedication a small business can still make its mark. This
diminutive vineyard was planted in 2008 with almost 4,000 vines of just two
grape varieties, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, in a total area of just 2 acres.
Although the two grape varieties yield the same tonnage, because of its tricky
nature, the Pinot Noir has a lower yield. The Pinot Noir, one of my favourite
grape varieties, takes up 2/3 of the area and is used both for their ‘Polden
Rose’ rosé wine and also ‘Polden Ruby’, their red wine. Its seductive colour
and complex flavours give it the advantage of being used either as a full red,
or with less skin contact during fermentation, a pretty pale rose. Their white
wine, ‘Polden Star’, is made from the Chardonnay grape variety, and here the
cool climate conditions give a clean, fresh wine with a hint of citrus, quite
unlike the heavier Chardonnays from the New World that many of us have become
accustomed to. Polden wines are all Single Vineyard, meaning that all of the
grapes from which the wine is pressed only comes from Stocklands vineyard.
Whilst up until now all of their wines have been single variety, in 2020, at
the height of the pandemic, a decision was made to make a sparkling wine with a
blend of both varieties. This decision was largely driven by the difficulties
posed by lockdown and the need to ensure that the harvest was not wasted. The
good news, for us as consumers, is that this month has seen the long-awaited
release of Polden’s first ever sparkling wine, ‘Polden Jazz’. Made with a
second fermentation in the bottle, and using both Chardonnay, which is
dominant, and Pinot Noir, two of the officially approved Champagne grape
varieties, this splendid newcomer cannot fail to lift the spirits. The wine is
un-oaked to retain a clean, fresh finish.
After a chance meeting with friends, Sue, renowned peony
grower, and with no vineyard experience, took over management of the vines in
2019 in what was to be a steep learning curve. With previous vineyard tenants
Mark and Jenny Thorp looking to retire and hand over the reins, Mark acted as
mentor, whilst Steve Brooksbank, a well-known wine maker from Shepton Mallet,
and with many awards to his name, continues to produce all Stocklands wines.
This perfect partnership, where the small team is supplemented by a band of
willing volunteers, is going from strength to strength. If you fancy bud
rubbing, tucking in, raising the wires, leaf stripping or harvesting grapes,
then get in touch.
Tasting sessions are held regularly, and with a ticket price
of just £10 per person to include tasting the three Polden wines, this would
make an ideal low cost Christmas present for budding oenophiles. The cost is
refunded on purchases of six or more bottles.
Open by Appointment
Telephone: 07493 773153
Thursday, 3 November 2022
TIME TO DECLUTTER
Nearing the end of this turbulent year, like many of us, I will be re-assessing my priorities.
Having resigned from all of my positions of responsibility at the beginning of the year, big sigh of relief, it has taken me longer than I thought to get my act together.
Not getting any younger, and with, thankfully, no family responsibilities, I have come to the conclusion that it is time to shed those responsibilities that remain, get my hands on as much filthy lucre as I’m entitled, and take off. When? When? Who knows? But what I do know is that I am hampered by my possessions. For me, in the privileged position of owning (with mortgages) two properties, one here in Somerset, and one in Northern France, now both up for sale, has brought about its challenges.
Reluctantly, I have realised that much as I love the things I surround myself with, collected over almost 60 years, and with lasting memories of times, places, people, what am I going to do in my declining years? Sit at home and stare at them?
I would describe myself as a tidy hoarder and have more of everything than almost anyone I know, but really, seven dinner services, enough bed linen for a hotel, and countless pairs of shoes, coats, and handbags. You can only eat off one plate or wear one pair of shoes at a time.
The only thing in constant short supply is wine, but that is a subject for another time.
My main problem, or two, is that I cannot bear waste, and love a bargain. The vast majority of what I own, including a grandfather clock, a posh leather sofa, and a full suit of armour, has been given to me. ‘I’m getting rid of this Linda, do you want it?’ I just cannot say no.
Nowadays I dare not leave the house, because three of my key weaknesses are community fund raisers, auctions, and charity shops, although I really do not need any more possessions.
I am an inveterate viewer of Antiques Road Trip and am continually astonished at how much stuff there is on offer, often very cheaply; items that can make quirky gifts, with the added advantage that the recipient is unlikely to establish how little it cost!
I think fondly of my 1930s walnut drinks cabinet complete with lemon squeezer in the door, which cost me £5, the 3m x 4m Axminster rug bought for just £18, the wrought iron staircase (which I put up myself) which was a mere £12, and hand-made Egyptian rag rug for just £5 (the very one the shop owner was sleeping on).
My point is, and it has taken me a while to get here, is that in the run up to Christmas and the gift giving season, do we really need to be trawling through the likes of Argos and Amazon to buy the latest, most expensive, smartest, on-trend gadget, clothing, toy? Not at all. We allow ourselves to be seduced by the marketing campaigns and part with our hard-earned cash on things which largely do not stand the test of time.
We all have our priorities. Moving forward mine are going to focus on enjoying the here and now, spending time with friends, and storing up those memories that will steer me through my dotage.
I shall focus on providing the people in my life with good experiences, top quality fresh food and wine, sourced locally and prepared with love. Things which demonstrate time and effort for loved ones, not open purse strings.
We spend much of our lives worrying about things that will often not come about and there is much to focus on for the remaining weeks of this year, but I live by this, some may say trite, mantra.
When trouble strikes there are only two question that matter:
‘Is this life or death?’ If the answer is no, then do not worry about it.
And if it is, ask ‘Can I do anything about the situation?’
If the answer is no, then do not worry about it.
Wishing you a worry-free start to 2023, combined with health wealth and happiness.