The summer months across the South West (for what bit of a summer we
have had!) heralds the time when the culmination of the hard work of our local
communities is celebrated by what seems to be a constant round of village fĂȘtes
and shows. I try to attend as many as I can, in order to enjoy the fruits of
the tireless year-round labour of our bakers, jam makers, craftsmen, gardeners
and flower arrangers, as they come together to show off their results in the
hope of coming up trumps as champion for the day. The competition is hot
amongst these amateurs.
What I am also mindful of though is the huge number of commercial food
and drink producers we have across the South West, many of whom have gained an
international reputation for the quality of their products. Yes, the prices are
often a little higher than we pay for the bulk-buy mass-produced offerings on
sale in supermarkets, but I believe we owe a debt of gratitude to these small
businesses and should do all that we can to support them. After all, what price
can we put on the love, passion and attention to detail required to produce a
morsel or sip of something truly memorable?
This thought brings me nicely onto this year’s Taste of The West Awards,
as Champion Product Finalists battle it out for supremacy. Since 1991, this
membership organisation, whose ethos is quality, integrity and provenance, has
set out to prove that our food and drink producers, and the places that serve
and sell their products, really are the best. I could not agree more.
Close to home, amongst this year’s liquid contenders for top dog are
these offerings, which will go down a treat with a hunk of Keen’s Somerset
Raw Milk Traditional Cheddar for the perfect ploughman’s or Ivan Thompson’s
Lean and Lite Pork and Apple Sausages from The Sausage Shed in Stembridge; with
just 5% fat they also have the advantage of being gluten free.
Arkells Brewery, Kingsdown, Wilts., who have been making beer since 1843,
like to celebrate sporting events with a number of special beers, including
their Triple Bogey (3.8% abv), produced for the Open Golf
Championship at Royal Birkdale. Their Strawberries ‘n’ Cream Ale (4.5%
abv) brewed just in time for Wimbledon with barley, oats and wheat,
topped up with summer fruity hops from around the world, makes for a refreshing
summer pint. Also worthy of mention is their Kingsdown (5% abv),
with its rich chestnut brown colour, a full bodied malty nose and bold
traditional flavour.
John Gilbert has gained recognition, with a number of CAMRA awards under
his belt since he started making beer over 30 years ago in 1986, culminating in
the formation of Hop Back Brewery, Downton, Wilts., on the
outskirts of Salisbury, in 1991. Taiphoon (4.2% abv) is a
fantastic pale gold beer with hints of lemongrass and coriander. Also look out
for
Summer Lightning (5% abv); brewed year round, this award winning
bitter is straw coloured with a terrific fresh, hoppy aroma and a long, dry
finish.
For cider lovers, Worley’s, Somerset, (just off the
A361 between Shepton Mallet and Frome) has on offer a lightly sparkling
medium cider, Red Hen (6.2% abv), which is a blend of
early-season bittersweets and sharps. The two main characteristics of this
flavourful cider fermented under natural yeast are its fruity apple and spice
noted with a long finish.
Tom Putt Cider (6.5% abv), produced by Marshwood Vale,
Stony Knapps, Thorncombe, Dorset is made from this West Country apple
variety that has been around since the late 1700s. Unlike many others used for
cider, this dual-purpose apple can also be used for cooking, where is natural
sharpness takes on a sweeter character. The makers pride themselves on the
individuality of their ciders, which are fermented over a long period.
For those wishing to avoid alcohol, Mary Durling Sweeter Apple
Juice, made from a mixture of dessert apples, may be just the job. Based
at Marshwood, Bridport, this feisty woman took on West
Dorset District Council to obtain planning permission to turn her six-acre
field into a smallholding.
In 2011, with Charlotte Dunham, Mary set up The Peasant
Evolution Producers’ Co-Operative, a collective of small-scale producers in
West Dorset, South Somerset and East Devon who have joined together to help
each other make a viable living off the land. They believe that being a peasant
is a way towards the future and promote organic farming, sustainable land
management, fairtrade, rural crafts and handmade, healthy local food. Look out
for their Allington Hill Apple Juice or for something a little
sharper try Tinker’s Bubble Organic Apple Juice, made primarily of
Bramleys with a hint of sweet Cox and Russet, pressed on an old fashioned screw
cider press at Fivepenny Farm and aged in traditional oak barrels.