THE BATHAMPTON MILL, Mill Lane, Bathampton, BA2 6TS
Tel. 01225 469758
With so many pubs, restaurants and other small businesses closing their doors for the final time in the last couple of years, it is heartening to hear of the recent investment that has been made for the refurbishment of The Bathampton Mill.
Having been a professional chef, competition judge and quality standards inspector for more years than I care to remember, I was delighted to receive an invitation to a preview of the new menu.
However, as a critic and writer let there be no mistake.. free meals do not necessarily mean a glowing review; it would be more than my reputation for objectivity and integrity is worth!
The Bathampton Mill, part of the long-standing Mitchells & Butlers Group, and part of their Premium Country Pubs brand, aims to deliver great food and drinks and a desire to consistently make the great British pub experience special for both their staff and guests.
Sited on the edge of Bath, one of the UK’s top visitor destinations, competition is tough. The danger for many establishments is the tendency to rely on passing trade, when in fact it is during the off-season that the loyalty of locals is what keeps a place ticking over.
Added to this is that with rising prices and the struggling economy, people are much more conscious of how they spend their hard-earned money and where they choose to spend it.
Much as I enjoy being on the receiving end of great service and good quality food, what is often overlooked, and can make or break the guest experience, is the hospitality; how I am treated. The odd mishap can be forgiven as long as I, the person paying their wages, feel valued.
Certainly, the splendidly stylish décor with its contemporary new look could not fail to give a very positive and welcoming first impression. The pub has a luxurious country house feel enhanced by interesting eye-catching artwork. Open log fires, for winter months, plush velvet seating and feature lighting add a touch of glamour to this relaxing and inviting space. Clearly this is intended to be a destination pub; not your average local boozer.
The pub has seating for 120, supplemented by a pleasant outdoor area; booking, especially at weekends, is advisable.
Invited to dine there prior to the official launch, the invitation was for myself and a guest, to sample items from their ‘All Day Menu’, which includes the usual suspects, pizza, burgers, steaks and salads, in addition to other more interesting dishes. Seasonal menus, with a range of interesting options from around the world, are supplemented by familiar pub favourites. The Bathampton Mill also prides itself on their rotisserie pork belly, 21 day-aged ribeye steak, and of course the traditional Sunday roast. Their new Dine at Home service is an ideal option for those nights when you don’t feel like cooking. Orders placed via their website automatically receive a 20% discount.
Arriving on a warm sunny evening, everything looked spick and span, and we were greeted by lovely smiley staff, including Rob (part of the training team and manager at another property), manager Kiran, and Max at the bar, who engaged with us enthusiastically to talk about the wide selection of beverages on offer.
I plumped for the Blood Orange and Passion Fruit Collins, from their extensive list of cocktails (sadly no brandy ones on offer though) which at £8.95 seemed reasonable and was quite delicious; sunshine in a glass. It could well become my go-to cocktail in future. Cocktails are just £12 for two from Monday to Thursday.
My companion, unable to decide which of the 30+ wines by the glass to have, was given several to try before making her decision. As she was driving (so that I could drink) she opted for the low calorie, low alcohol rosé. Not quite my cup of tea; I opted for an Italian Gavi, and a Portuguese red from the Douro. It was good to be able to choose something other than the limited mundane range of choices on offer in most pubs.
Our waitress for the evening, Zoe, was attentive without being intrusive and, once again, was keen to engage with us when invited to do so. When questioned about menu items she showed a good level of knowledge and an awareness of allergies.
In addition to quite an extensive ‘All Day Menu’, vegetarians and vegans are not forgotten, with a separate menu offered. There is also a children’s menu, main courses at £5.95, where it was pleasing to see some nod to offering healthy accompaniments in addition to the usual pizza, pasta and chicken. Whilst showing the calorie count for each dish was useful, on a personal level, when dining out, I am not at all sure that I want to be reminded of how much I am consuming!
As the pub is part of a large group, it is understandable that some menu items are bought in rather than being made in house.
All of the food we tried was well presented. We opted for ……. (yes, I know, scallops and pork, but our bellies got the better of us!)
PAN-FRIED WILD SCALLOPS with ras el hanout, smoked haddock Florentine bonbons, celeriac purée, apple & fennel tartare 265kcal 11.50. Whilst enjoyable, I felt that the scallops were somewhat overwhelmed by the other ingredients.
PORK BELLY BAO BUN with miso and sweet chili sauce, and kimchi 587kcal 7.25. This was less successful, and a poor rendition of a Chinese staple.
CAESAR SALAD - baby gem lettuce, anchovies, shaved parmesan, ciabatta croutons 627kcal 10.95. This was huge, and although the anchovies were tinned rather than fresh, it was a fair attempt at a classic salad, and a good deal better than most I have sampled recently.
MAPLE-GLAZED SLOW-COOKED PORK BELLY & SCALLOPS with a pulled pork & cider bonbon, roasted celeriac & fresh apple purée, dauphinoise potatoes, Tenderstem® broccoli, Bordelaise* sauce 1410kcal 19.75. Lots of lovely crispy crackling with this, and the generous portion of Dauphinoise potatoes were very well executed. As for the scallops, an unnecessary addition.
HOME-BAKED CHOCOLATE BROWNIE Belgian chocolate sauce, Bourbon vanilla ice cream (v) 661kcal 6.95. This is one of a few homemade puds on offer. I am not normally a brownie fan, but this was superb and highly recommended.
SICILIAN LEMON POSSET Vanilla sablé biscuits (v) 325kcal 6.95. Served unusually in a shallow ramekin, this provided a light finale to what was overall a good dining experience.
I would like to have seen cheese on offer to appease those who do not have a sweet tooth.
There is clear customer focus and flexibility at The Bathampton Mill, and although as the evening progressed there were some minor teething problems, this is to be expected with a brand-new team of staff in place; the overwhelming feeling was one of enthusiasm and positivity, and a good level of knowledge, although the website does need some tidying up.
I certainly plan to return and have earmarked several other dishes worth trying ….
CROXTON MANOR CHEESE SOUFFLÉ - toasted pine nuts, red chicory, sweet pear, cucumber dressing (v) 541kcal 7.50
BUTTERMILK CHICKEN, SOMERSET BRIE & BACON PIE - sautéed green beans & Tenderstem® broccoli, creamed potato, rich chicken gravy 1375kcal 15.75
APPLE & DAMSON CRUMBLE – with Bourbon vanilla ice cream 204kcal or custard 80kcal (v) 6.75
In an industry which is struggling, The Bathampton Mill is clearly taking a step in the right direction, putting the customer at the heart of its operation.
