Wednesday, 9 August 2023
Charging single diners double?
Friday, 4 August 2023
Searing Grapes: The Impact of High Temperatures on the Wine Industry in Europe
Whilst some of us enjoy basking in the warmer weather (not
me!) we cannot ignore the fact that this summer has proved to be a bit of a
scorcher, with temperatures breaking records in many parts of the world.
Naturally, I am interested in the impact this might have on my favourite
beverage, wine. The wine industry in Europe, which has been flourishing for
centuries, is facing unprecedented challenges due to climate change. As global
warming intensifies, European vineyards are grappling with rising temperatures,
changing weather patterns, and extreme heat events. This can have far-reaching
consequences for the wine industry in terms of vine cultivation, grape quality,
wine production, and the overall economic and cultural landscape of the
continent.
Traditionally, European wine regions thrived in temperate
climates with mild summers and cool nights, creating optimal conditions for
grape cultivation. However, with temperatures soaring, many vineyards are now
facing difficulties in growing grape varieties that were once well-suited to
the region's conditions. The heat stresses the vines, leading to premature
ripening, stunted growth, and reduced yields. Vineyard owners and winemakers
are left with the difficult choice of either adapting to new grape varieties or
relocating to higher altitudes and cooler regions.
High temperatures during the growing season can severely
impact grape quality. Extreme heat can cause dehydration and sugar
concentration in the grapes, resulting in higher alcohol levels in the wine;
hence the higher alcohol content of wines from Australia and California, for
example. The natural acidity that gives European wines their characteristic
balance and complexity may decrease, leading to wines that lack structure and
freshness. The delicate aromas and flavours that make European wines
sought-after may also be altered or diminished, impacting the wine's overall
sensory profile.
As temperatures rise and traditional grape varieties
struggle to cope, winemakers are adapting their practices to remain
competitive. Some wineries are exploring new cultivation techniques, such as
shading the vines or altering the trellising systems to protect the grapes from
excessive heat exposure. Others are opting for advanced irrigation methods to
counteract water stress and maintain grape quality. In some cases, winemakers
are turning to innovative technologies and viticultural practices to mitigate
the effects of heat on their vineyards.
The combination of higher alcohol levels and altered grape
characteristics is leading to shifts in wine styles and taste profiles.
European winemakers are experimenting with earlier harvests to preserve acidity
and control alcohol levels. Consequently, wines may be lighter in body and show
different aromatic and flavour profiles compared to their traditional
counterparts. While these adaptations can result in interesting new wines, they
also pose challenges for preserving the unique heritage and identity of
European wine regions.
The wine industry is a cornerstone of European culture and
heritage, contributing significantly to the continent's economy. High
temperatures and the resulting changes in grape cultivation and wine production
can have a profound economic impact on the industry. Smaller vineyards, which
often rely on traditional methods and grape varieties, are particularly
vulnerable to the effects of climate change. The economic viability of these
vineyards may be at risk, potentially leading to the loss of local jobs and a
decline in the cultural significance of wine in the region.
To address the challenges posed by high temperatures, the wine industry in Europe is taking a multi-faceted approach. Sustainable and organic farming practices are being promoted to maintain soil health and improve vine resilience. Research and development are ongoing to identify and breed grape varieties that can better withstand heat stress while preserving the region's wine characteristics. Additionally, regional and international cooperation is crucial in sharing knowledge and best practices for climate change adaptation. Only through collaborative efforts, innovative solutions, and sustainable practices can European winemakers safeguard their heritage while embracing a changing climate.
For wine drinkers, all is not lost however. In hot climates,
certain grape varieties have demonstrated a remarkable ability to thrive and
produce quality wines despite the challenging conditions. These grape varieties
have evolved and adapted to withstand heat stress, making them well-suited for
vine cultivation in warmer regions. Some of the grape varieties that do best in
hot climates, which surprisingly include several white varieties,
include:
Vermentino/Rolle: a white grape variety commonly
found in Mediterranean regions like Sardinia, Corsica, and Southern France. It
is renowned for its ability to retain acidity in hot climates, resulting in
refreshing white wines with citrus and stone fruit notes.
Viognier: one of my favourite varieties, a white
grape variety that excels in warm climates, particularly in regions like the
Rhône Valley in France and certain parts of California. It produces aromatic
wines with floral and tropical fruit characteristics.
Assyrtiko: Assyrtiko: another white grape
variety, and native to the Greek island of Santorini. It is incredibly
resilient to hot, arid conditions and volcanic soils, producing crisp and
mineral-driven wines with citrus and saline notes.
Grenache/Garnacha: a red grape variety that is
known for its ability to endure high temperatures and drought conditions. It is
widely cultivated in regions like Southern France (e.g., Rhône Valley,
Languedoc-Roussillon), Spain (e.g., Priorat, Rioja, Navarra), and Australia.
Grenache-based wines often exhibit bold fruit flavours, spice, and moderate
tannins.
Carignan/Cariñena: another red grape variety
that is well-suited for hot climates. It is often found in blends, particularly
in Southern France and Spain. Carignan is valued for its ability to maintain
acidity and produce wines with vibrant red fruit characteristics.
Mourvèdre/Monastrell: a heat-loving red grape
variety commonly grown in Southern France, Spain, and some parts of Australia.
It thrives in warm, arid conditions and produces wines with intense dark fruit
flavours and spice, often with a robust tannic structure.
Zinfandel: Zinfandel: a red grape variety native
to California, USA. It performs exceptionally well in hot regions like the
Central Valley and is the primary grape used in the production of the famous
"California Zinfandel" wines. Zinfandel wines are known for their
bold, jammy fruit flavours and high alcohol content.
Tempranillo: Tempranillo: is the flagship red grape
variety of Spain, known for its prominent role in wines from Rioja and Ribera
del Duero. It can handle hot summers and is valued for its versatility, capable
of producing a range of styles from light and fruity to deeply structured
wines.
Malbec: a red grape variety originally from
France, but which has found great success in Argentina, especially in the
Mendoza region. In Argentina's high-altitude vineyards, Malbec thrives in the
hot, sunny climate, resulting in rich, fruity wines with velvety tannins.
Tinta Barroca: a red grape variety primarily
grown in Portugal's Douro Valley, where it plays a crucial role in the
production of Port wines. It is well-suited for the hot and dry conditions of
the region.
These grape varieties have not only adapted to hot climates
but have also gained recognition for their ability to produce distinctive and
appealing wines, showcasing the diverse range of flavours and styles that can
be achieved in warmer viticultural areas.