When I Fed the Queen

It wasn't until I woke up this morning to see all of the news about celebrations for the Queen's 90th birthday that I remembered that I had cooked for the Queen on her visit to Geevor tin mine in 1980.

My experience of being a general kitchen help for chef Ann Long who owned The Count House Restaurant, and who had been asked to prepare lunch for the royal party, which included Prince Philip and Prince Andrew, started my life long love of food, culminating in me being chef to the British Ambassador to the United Nations many years later. 

My job that day in November 1980, as a young naval wife and regular customer of the restaurant, was to peel thousands of grapes for the salad, and then to act as wine waiter.....

Here is a report from the day's event.......

The plaque unveiled in November 1980 of HM The Queen accompanied by HRH The Duke of Edinburgh and HRH The Prince Andrew.

‘A ROYAL visit is often cause for excitement, but west Penwith got three for the price of one. Queen Elizabeth II was joined by her husband Prince Phillip and son Prince Andrew on the trip to Geevor Tin Mine on November 28, 1980. After a lengthy trip down the mine, the royal visiting party then went on to the Count House restaurant at Botallack, before heading to Camborne School of Mines.

Restaurant owner Anne Long, was up early working on the monarch's midday meal at the restaurant in Botallack which she has run for 12 years.

Mrs Long, said that it had been an honour to cook for the Queen and her family.

"I didn't enter a competition to feed the Queen, I was asked to feed the Queen. I am sure she enjoyed her food because we spent ages preparing. We were up at 4am preparing a feast to set before the Queen. Pineapples and peppers, chicken and seafood, and fruit and vegetables were scattered around waiting to be used for this special occasion. A policeman was sent to watch over us as we got the food ready.”

‘DESIGNING dinners for the delectation of Baroness Thatcher, Princess Margaret and other world leaders was all in a day's work for Linda Piggott-Vijeh when she was chef to the British Ambassador to the United Nations in New York.

Her food was famous, and not just because it was delicious. She hit the headlines for serving the French Ambassador, Pierre-Louis Blanc, weeds for dinner.

Newly-arrived at the Embassy, which overlooked Central Park, Linda had become interested in the foraging tours organised by Parks department botanist and ecologist "Wildman" Steve Brill.

He showed students how to identify and collect wild vegetables, fruits, berries, herbs and mushrooms.

So for the French Ambassador she cooked a dinner of lamb covered with a wild black cherry-water mint jam, which included mushrooms and a salad of wood sorrel, sheep sorrel, lady's thumb and poor man's pepper, all harvested in Central Park.

The Ambassador said it was some of the tastiest food he'd ever eaten – although he found it difficult to believe that the chef was not only not French, but English.

The reputation of British food continued to rise as Linda ensured that food from the UK featured strongly. Cheddar cheese straws and wine from Somerset's Wootton vineyard featured on one all-British menu.

"There is risk of disaster in cooking, but if you understand food you can turn a disaster into something else. Presentation is most important of course, but I like quite basic food myself. My favourite is steak and kidney pie.”

"I have had my disasters. My most spectacular was a dinner at the Embassy for the Japanese Ambassador. I had made a huge baked Alaska and called it Mount Fuji and when I took it out of the oven it slid onto the floor. I have never seen anyone whisk egg whites more quickly than I did then."

Wines to go with a meal fit for a Queen

Across the world this week community groups gathered to celebrate the Queen’s 90th birthday, although of course we shall all have the opportunity to join in the festivities again on the 10th June, the date when her ‘official’ birthday is celebrated.

Rather late in the day I recalled that in 1980 I helped to feed the queen on her visit to Geevor mine in Cornwall. As the young wife of a naval officer at the time my sole task was to peel thousands of grapes for the fruit salad that formed part of the meal that the Queen enjoyed with Prince Philip and Prince Andrew at the Count House, Botallack, one of the country’s top restaurants at the time. I also acted as wine steward for the lunch.

Having fed several members of the royal family during my years as a professional chef, and as a staunch royalist, I am always interested to know about the food and wine side of things, so as the Queen gathered with her family and friends for a private birthday dinner, I was keen to discover what they ate.

According to the published menu they dined on poached fillet of salmon trout, followed by beef in port wine sauce, and then a passion fruit and mango gateau for dessert, which I plan to replicate, along with these wines.

Before sitting down to dine however, one would of course fully expect to partake of pre-prandial cocktail or two. The Queen’s favourite is a Dubonnet cocktail, the recipe for which follows:-

2 parts Dubonnet Rouge
1 part Gin
1 slice Lemon
Ice

Fill a cocktail shaker with ice, add the other ingredients, stir and strain into a cocktail glass. Top with lemon wedge and two ice cubes.

The Queen is known for her lack of extravagance so when it comes to the meal itself, rather than go for wines at the top end of the scale I have selected modest bottles, within the price range of us all. 

Although there is no detail as to how the fish was served, I would fully expect her majesty to show a bit of patriotism, so to go with the first course my choice would be Denbies Pinot Gris, Dorking, Surrey, 2014, £16.95, 12.5%.

Despite the prominent beeswax, melon and honeysuckle characters on the nose, this well balanced wine is dry on the palate, full-bodied and rich with ripe stone fruits, key lime and honey, and has a long finish. Made from hand-picked grapes, this wine is made only in the best of seasons and varies in its varietal make up depending on vintage. This splendid vineyard also has accommodation at reasonable prices, so is well worth a visit.

For the beef, I am assuming that only the best, leanest cut of meat would be served, and I feel that a wine with a regal name would be just the ticket. So, rather than plumping for a heavy red that might overwhelm the royal palate after such a long and tiring day I have gone for the newest of the Beaujolias Crus, Regnié, granted its status in 1988.

There is far more to beaujolais than ‘nouveau’ and this Domaine Julien Sunier, Beaujolais, Burgundy, France, 2014, 12%, £18.95, made from the Gamay grape (as is all Beaujolais) is full of bright red fruit, vivacious and fresh.

To my mind no celebratory meal is complete without bubbly, so when it comes to the chosen pud, passion fruit and mango gateau, I can think of no better match than Pol Roger Rich Demi Sec, Epernay, France, £36.30, 12%. This medium dry Champagne, with its fruity notes of apricots and acacia honey and smooth finish is an ideal match for a rich creamy gateau, if for no other reason than that Pol Roger was the favoured Champagne house of the Queen’s first Prime Minister, Winston Churchill.

THE BEACH HOTEL MINEHEAD

As a professional hotel and restaurant inspector I am often asked to visit places to give them the once over. These invitations are usually issued by the PR person acting on behalf of an establishment, with a view to writing the type of ‘fluff’ piece that one often sees in local magazines and publications, and which I deplore, it is just advertising by another name; in order to safeguard my professional integrity, I always decline such invitations.

However, I was intrigued to learn of the The Beach Hotel, Minehead. It was set up just two years ago as a social enterprise under the umbrella of the YMCA, with a clear aim to assist young people in taking charge and responsibility for their own learning and development, providing training and support with housing and other issues that they face.

In my capacity as Chair of the Somerset Corporate Parent Board, it seemed the perfect opportunity for me to pay them a call, in my own time, at my own expense, using the same objective criteria I would use for a full on inspection, and of course, incognito.

It is at this point I should probably point out that one of my clients has openly said ‘Linda is passionate about standards and customer service, tells it like it is, takes no prisoners, but ultimately gets results.’

My initial experience, from using their website, which needs updating, and trying, unsuccessfully, on a number of occasions to phone them did not bode well for a successful visit.

It was therefore a welcome surprise to find that on approaching the hotel the first impression was very favourable. An imposing, smart, freshly painted building well positioned on the seafront, and right next door to West Somerset Railway. Things were looking up, especially when I managed to snag the only parking space left. I timed my arrival for lunch, hoping to take advantage of the café, which contrary to advertised opening hours, turned out to be closed. Oh dear.

No matter, my enthusiastic greeting from Dave could not have been more welcoming and friendly, which nicely set the tone for the rest of the visit, helped along by fresh flowers and fruit on the reception desk (both a little tired, sadly).

On expressing my dismay at the lack of lunch he promptly offered to see what he could do and I was able to select a haddock and mozzarella fishcake with saffron mayonnaise. Nicely prepared and well-presented, it went down well with a glass of wine, ably served by Ashleigh, who was keen to tell me how the project had really helped her. Feeling quite at home by now it was just a little disappointing that my second glass of wine was different to what I had previously ordered.

Moving on, not only was I able to check in early, Dave also readily offered me a 30% discount for single occupancy of my room, but also offered to carry my luggage while he escorted me; a rare thing in the day and age. This helpful, pro-active approach and willingness to engage with customers made me feel valued as a customer. I was all set for a good stay.

My Deluxe Double Standard room, Hurlestone, which like the rest of the building was tastefully decorated in muted colours, reflecting the seaside location, was very spacious, simply decorated and had a super king sized bed. The bathroom was modern and spotlessly clean. In addition to water and decent tea/coffee facilities, biscuits were also provided. No dressing table though, or a surface from which I could work, using the free WiFi facility. Time for an afternoon nap before dinner. Some information telling me a bit more about the facilities on offer would have been welcome.

The public areas include a small bar in the reception area, with quirky travelling trunks on legs as coffee tables, is rather minimalist, but there are several cosier private areas in which to meet. In the dining room, well laid tables, with crisp white linen cloths, gave a very favourable first impression. The evening menu, changed frequently, is small by most people’s standards, with only three choices for each course. For me, in my professional capacity, this is always a good sign as it means the food is more likely to be freshly prepared to order, and I was encouraged by the focus on seasonality.

Well, they say that the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and I was very impressed. All of the dishes were beautifully presented, with care evident in the preparation. Seasoning was spot on and if I were grading my meal according to AA restaurant standards it would probably have warranted 2 rosettes. There were some slight niggles with service (bread not offered and no enjoyment check) and missed opportunities for upselling, but overall an excellent experience.

·        Seared breast of wild pigeon, pearly barley risotto, sesame condiment, confit shallot

·        Slow roast skrie cod with crunchy lemongrass, coriander and Thai basil crust, Asian potato cake, stir fried vegetables

·        Bitter chocolate mousse with a praline and feuilletine base, served with smoked hazelnut parfait and salted milk ice cream

Unfortunately, an early meeting in Taunton meant that I had to leave before breakfast, which included cinnamon pancakes and smoked haddock, but a good selection of cereals, juice etc. was left out for me to help myself to. 

The total cost for my stay – light lunch, three course dinner, 3 glasses of wine and a deluxe room, just £103.

Is The Beach Hotel perfect, not at all. There is no such thing as the perfect hotel, if for no other reason than that we all want different things from our experience and it is impossible to provide all things for all people all of the time.

Would I stay here again, without doubt. Would I spend my own money here, absolutely. Would I recommend it to others, without hesitation.

Personally, I think that every town should have one.

Arson attack at historic Donyatt Halt

As featured in Yeovil Press:

http://www.yeovilpress.co.uk/blog/2015/12/08/south-somerset-news-arson-attack-at-historic-donyatt-halt/

Awards night for Ilminster Young Farmers

As featured in Yeovil Press:

http://www.yeovilpress.co.uk/blog/2015/11/09/clubs-and-societies-awards-night-for-ilminster-young-farmers/

Council cash up for grabs in Ilminster

As featured in Yeovil Press:

http://www.yeovilpress.co.uk/blog/2015/09/02/south-somerset-news-council-cash-up-for-grabs-in-ilminster/

Hole opens up in footpath

As featured in Yeovil Press:

http://www.yeovilpress.co.uk/blog/2015/09/01/south-somerset-news-hole-opens-up-in-footpath/