I’ve always been game for a bit of game, and aficionados of this wonderful wild source of protein will be aware, that although we are still basking in the summer sun (at the time of writing at least), August heralds the arrival of what is known as ‘The Glorious Twelfth’, the date stipulated in the 1831 Game Act for the start of the annual British game shooting season.
Grouse shooting has long been thought of as a pursuit enjoyed by the money’d classes (costing several thousand pounds per day for each ‘gun’ to participate), and there is always the mad rush to see which top restaurant will bag the honour of getting this heather loving, moorland bird first to the table for those discerning diners with a bob or two to spare in their back pocket. Red grouse has very little fat, so it provides a healthy option. With the added bonus of being bred on the moors, it is free of the wretched chemicals pumped into much of the other meat we consume, but eating it can be an expensive past-time; you need a bird per person, which will set you back around £35 a go in restaurants.
However, the good news for the rest of us is that the ‘better’ supermarkets have seen the light and have at last acknowledged the desire amongst us, with limited budgets, to indulge in a little luxury from time to time, for something in the region of £10 each. This of course leaves more money to spend on the wine!
When it comes to matching wine with grouse it very much depends on how old the bird is, how it is cooked and served. When choosing the perfect wine match and, excuse the pun here, to avoid grouse-ing about it, keep in mind the traditional accompaniments – game chips, bread sauce, and redcurrant jelly.
The short season runs through until mid December, by which time the birds will be that much older and with a stronger, gamey, flavour to the meat. These older birds will prove to be a better match for more full-bodied, complex wines. Most modern chefs have the tendency to cook grouse rare, unless it is well hung, which to my mind it should not be, as then it can then become much more gamey, losing some of its delicate flavour. The preferred method of cooking is to simply roast it.
Personally, and being rather a traditionalist, I am inclined to be just that little bit boring, and stick with France in making my selections for the perfect match.
If your budget doesn’t run to a decent red Burgundy, and providing good value for money, I’m a particular fan of northern Rhone wines. The main thing is to go light on the tannins to avoid overwhelming the subtle earthy flavour of the meat, and it’s best to steer clear of white wines.
Philippe Jaboulet, Domaine Collange, Crozes-Hermitage, Northern Rhone, 2009, Syrah, 13%. £14
Chateau bottled, it is unoaked, elegant and soft, with hints of blackberry, plums, crushed black pepper.
Cave Saint-Desirat cooperative, Saint-Joseph, Northern Rhone, 2010, Syrah,13% £15.
Estate bottled, look for white pepper, spice and liquorice, subtle oak and soft tannins.
Chavy-Chouet, La Taupe, Bourgogne Rouge, old vines, Cote D’Or, Burgundy, 2011, Pinot Noir, 12.5%. £15
Single vineyard estate, with silky tannins, giving off wild-cherry and spice with violets.
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