Thursday 20 April 2017

CAT’S PEE ON THE GOOSEBERRIES IN THE GRASS The wonders of Sauvignon Blanc

Whilst I really enjoy trying out lesser known grape varieties, being able to do so in my local hostelry is not usually an option.

Certainly, when it comes to white wines, the options by the glass on offer in most pubs and restaurants tend to be limited to a rather mediocre Pinot Grigio, flabby New World Chardonnay, or Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. I would not mind quite so much were I not paying through the nose for such an indifferent experience. I long for the day when on raising glass to lips I can be pleasantly surprised with the anticipation of what lies in store for my taste buds.   

Given the paucity of choice, I tend to plump for the Sauvignon Blanc because unlike many other wines, it is characterised by its green and herbaceous flavours, which I much prefer to the forward fruity styles of other inexpensive plonks.

Sauvignon Blanc owes much of its popularity to French winemakers, principally located in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley.

As one of the most widely planted grape varieties in the world, (275,000+ acres worldwide) Sauvignon Blanc seems to have the ability to adapt to the nuances of the climate and terroir of its location, producing very different styles of wine.
The primary flavours of Sauvignon Blanc are influenced by the ripeness of the grapes at the time of harvesting, ranging from lime to gooseberry, kiwi, passionfruit and apricot. What makes Sauvignon Blanc unique though are its herbaceous flavours (just like sticking your nose into a bouquet of herbs), along with green pepper and grass, along with the ‘cat’s pee’ smell resulting from aromatic compounds called pyrazines. Whilst many winemakers will work hard to avoid these, they can add a level of complexity to a well-made wine, giving herbal notes. Some excellent examples of this are found in Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé from the Loire.

Although blended with Semillon and Muscadelle in Bordeaux, to make some stunning super sweet dessert wines, most Sauvignon Blanc wines are dry, although some New World producers have been experimenting with off-dry styles.

Sauvignon Blanc is extremely versatile when it comes to food matching, its crisp acidity making it a good foil for fatty foods, and it is of course a flinty Sancerre is the classic match with the stinky-creamy goat cheese, Crottin de Chavignol.

Here are some of my favourite Sauvignon Blancs to kick start your buds.

Albastrele Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Moldova, 13%, £8.29
Always keen to try wines from outside the classic growing areas, this medium-bodied dry white had some finesse. Made from hand-picked organically grown grapes, it stands up well to other classic Sauvignons; ripe citrus fruit, with hints of freshly cut grass with a minerally character to follow.

Arabella 2016, Roberston Valley, South Africa, 13%, £9.49
I came across this wine when I became a ‘Naked Wine Angel’. This online company supports small independent winemakers and I have found the wines they offer more interesting than most. Expect a mouthful of crisp apples, with a touch white peach.

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Marlborough, New Zealand, 13.5%, £25
The best-known NZ wine, which made its mark on the wine world 4 decades ago. An outstanding wine that detractors feel is losing ground to other up and coming winemakers.
Light, dry and refreshing, it has ripe, complex lemon, lime, nectarine and orange blossom flavours. Unlike many of its contemporaries these wines are for keeping; if you can resist the temptation!

DK Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Marlborough, New Zealand, 12.5%, £11.99
Wines from Dave Knappstein have enjoyed some acclaim. This exuberant wine, a pale straw green in colour, light and refreshing with vibrant gooseberry, freshly cut grass and asparagus notes, along with a hint of guava and passionfruit.

Don Cayetano Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Valle Central, Chile, 12.5%, £8.29
Cool nights and careful winemaking have preserved the zesty freshness of this wine. Juicy citrus and melon with some herbaceous hints are noticeable on the nose, whilst tropical kiwi and pear fruits give balance to the lively lemony acidity.

Liboreau Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Charentais, France (IGP) 12%, £8.49
A medium-bodied Bordeaux-style white, lovely and brisk, with the cut grass and gooseberry aromas offset by citrus minerality.
lemon fruit.

Split Rock Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Nelson, New Zealand, 12.5%, £10.99
A heady mix of sunshine, cool sea breezes and rich soil give a lemony brilliance to this wine. Expect to find sugar snap peas, gooseberry, green pepper, asparagus, and refreshing lime flavours.

Tikohi Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Marlborough, New Zealand, 13%, £11.99
Fully deserving of its world class reputation, this mouth watering offering is deeply refreshing. Aromas of mango, cut grass and pink grapefruit are joined by tropical citrus to give an intense, zesty, fresh and well balanced glass of wine.

Viña Albali Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Rueda, Spain, 13%, £7.99
Situated in the heart of Rueda in the Spanish province of Valladolid, Pagos del Rey, Viña Albali produced their first harvest in 2005, and has quickly asserted its positon as one of the top wineries in this area. This bright, fresh, crisp, wine, in addition to a complex aroma of dried herbs, is ripe with peach, mango and papaya flavours.

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