This time last year I spent Fairtrade Fortnight (25th Feb.
to 11th Mar. this year) in Kenya, working in an AIDS orphanage.
This time around, back on my home turf, I will be marking the occasion
with a tasting of 15 Fairtrade wines; putting them through their paces to see
how well they stand up to other offerings within a similar price range.
Wine is now produced pretty much all over the world (look out for Indian
wines as top wine makers uncover hidden talents) and the escalation in
production and the change in our drinking habits, has been revolutionary.
By comparison with the most popular wines on offer from our supermarkets
Fairtrade wines can seem expensive, coming in at around £6-£8 a bottle, and in
recent years Fairtrade wines have suffered from some negative
publicity.
I'm mindful of the fact that when we buy anything on price alone, we fail
to take into account the factors that contribute to that price. To put it into
context, the price of cheddar cheese (one of my favourite things) can vary
widely according to the process used, the quality of the raw product, and of
course marketing and branding. A quick online search showed prices at as little
as £6 a kilo, to over £20…. and a world of difference in the taste.
Wine making is a time consuming and labour-intensive process, with no
guaranteed results for all of the effort and investment. With increasing
economic pressures to keep prices low it is often those at the coal face, such
as the grape pickers, that suffer.
Fairtrade, in an effort to ensure a fair day’s pay for a fair day’s
work, is attempting to redress this imbalance. The standards introduced by
Fairtrade are intended to improve employment conditions and protect the rights
of workers on vineyards, in addition to supporting small co-operatives,
enabling them to gain more control over their supply chains.
There are 42 Fairtrade wine producing organisations worldwide, across
South Africa, Chile, Argentina and Lebanon, representing more than 5,000
farmers and workers.
As might be expected, South Africa is the largest producer accounting for
around 2/3 of Fairtrade wine sales, along with Chile, which also produces a
high proportion of Fairtrade wine.
Interestingly, much of the impetus seems to occur where countries have
undergone economic, social and political challenges; highlighting some very
dubious employment practices. Putting an end to poverty and inequality remain a
driving force.
Payment of the Fairtrade Minimum Price aims to cover the average cost of
production for a small farmer, whilst certification ensures decent working
conditions in a safe environment without discrimination.
Small farmers and workers receive a Fairtrade Premium for wine sales,
which is invested in improving farm practices, education, healthcare and
training programmes to benefit the local community.
Although many of us will be struggling to make the pennies stretch to a
bottle of wine for the weekend, we must not forget that in the overall scheme
of things we are relatively wealthy and can, if we choose, help to support
those who are struggling to keep a roof over their heads; to live and work in a
safe, healthy environment without fear.
Lecture over. Next time you are in the mood, look out for some of these
offerings. You never know, you might actually prefer one or two to the bulk buy
wine frequently on offer, with the advantage of having that warm, cosy feeling
of having helped someone less fortunate.
Overall, it would be fair to say (no pun intended) that Fairtrade wines
are unpretentious, simple wines, for easy drinking and best enjoyed young. I
would love to see some of the world’s wine making experts get more involved, as
they have done in countries such as India.
Fairtrade wines are easy to spot, just look for the Fairtrade symbol on
the bottle.
What is encouraging is that most of our major supermarkets have seen the
light, albeit cautiously, and are now stocking Fairtrade products, including
wine.
The Co-op
have been pioneers when it comes to Fairtrade products. They were the first UK
supermarket to sell Fairtrade wines, in 2004, and still have the widest range
available, accounting for half of all Fairtrade wine sales in the UK, and an
impressive 28% globally.
Waitrose also support Fairtrade wine with varieties from Argentina,
Chile and South Africa. M&S also offer a range of premium Fairtrade wines
from South Africa and Chile, and 100% of Sainsbury’s ‘Taste the Difference’
South African wines are Fairtrade.
Apart from the Co-op though, where there is always a good choice on
offer, it is difficult to recommend individual wines, as I have found that
despite purporting to support Fairtrade, in other supermarkets it is very much
hit and miss.
The Timiluqui label, produced by La Riojana Co-operative in Argentina,
the largest co-operative of small-scale farmers in NW Argentina is quite
readily available.
South African wines available include those under the Usizo Fairtrade
label. In this case the money raised directly benefits important housing and
educational projects.
Usizo Pinotage 2013, 13.5%, is a full and fruity red, whilst Usizo Fairtrade Sauvignon Blanc 2016,
12%, is a zesty white from the Breede River Valley. Also from this area of
South Africa is their Colombard/Sauvignon Blanc blend, 2016, 12%. All retail at
£8.49 a bottle.
Other labels to look out for include – Parcel By Parcel, produced by
Consorcio Vinicola de Chile (CVC), Arniston Bay (South Africa), Fairhills
(South Africa) and Finca Monteflores (Argentina).
As Lent is a time for reflection on the consequences of our actions, and
hope for a better future, we can all play our part. Better still, if you happen
to be in Ilminster on March 10th, stop by Ilminster Bookshop for a
free tasting.
