BUYING FAIRTRADE WINE

This time last year I spent Fairtrade Fortnight (25^th Feb. to 11^th Mar. this year) in Kenya, working in an AIDS orphanage.

This time around, back on my home turf, I will be marking the occasion with a tasting of 15 Fairtrade wines; putting them through their paces to see how well they stand up to other offerings within a similar price range.

Wine is now produced pretty much all over the world (look out for Indian wines as top wine makers uncover hidden talents) and the escalation in production and the change in our drinking habits, has been revolutionary.

By comparison with the most popular wines on offer from our supermarkets Fairtrade wines can seem expensive, coming in at around £6-£8 a bottle, and in recent years Fairtrade wines have suffered from some negative publicity.  

I'm mindful of the fact that when we buy anything on price alone, we fail to take into account the factors that contribute to that price. To put it into context, the price of cheddar cheese (one of my favourite things) can vary widely according to the process used, the quality of the raw product, and of course marketing and branding. A quick online search showed prices at as little as £6 a kilo, to over £20…. and a world of difference in the taste.

Wine making is a time consuming and labour-intensive process, with no guaranteed results for all of the effort and investment. With increasing economic pressures to keep prices low it is often those at the coal face, such as the grape pickers, that suffer.

Fairtrade, in an effort to ensure a fair day’s pay for a fair day’s work, is attempting to redress this imbalance. The standards introduced by Fairtrade are intended to improve employment conditions and protect the rights of workers on vineyards, in addition to supporting small co-operatives, enabling them to gain more control over their supply chains.

There are 42 Fairtrade wine producing organisations worldwide, across South Africa, Chile, Argentina and Lebanon, representing more than 5,000 farmers and workers.

As might be expected, South Africa is the largest producer accounting for around 2/3 of Fairtrade wine sales, along with Chile, which also produces a high proportion of Fairtrade wine.

Interestingly, much of the impetus seems to occur where countries have undergone economic, social and political challenges; highlighting some very dubious employment practices. Putting an end to poverty and inequality remain a driving force.

Payment of the Fairtrade Minimum Price aims to cover the average cost of production for a small farmer, whilst certification ensures decent working conditions in a safe environment without discrimination.

Small farmers and workers receive a Fairtrade Premium for wine sales, which is invested in improving farm practices, education, healthcare and training programmes to benefit the local community.

Although many of us will be struggling to make the pennies stretch to a bottle of wine for the weekend, we must not forget that in the overall scheme of things we are relatively wealthy and can, if we choose, help to support those who are struggling to keep a roof over their heads; to live and work in a safe, healthy environment without fear.

Lecture over. Next time you are in the mood, look out for some of these offerings. You never know, you might actually prefer one or two to the bulk buy wine frequently on offer, with the advantage of having that warm, cosy feeling of having helped someone less fortunate.

Overall, it would be fair to say (no pun intended) that Fairtrade wines are unpretentious, simple wines, for easy drinking and best enjoyed young. I would love to see some of the world’s wine making experts get more involved, as they have done in countries such as India.

Fairtrade wines are easy to spot, just look for the Fairtrade symbol on the bottle.

What is encouraging is that most of our major supermarkets have seen the light, albeit cautiously, and are now stocking Fairtrade products, including wine.

The Co-op have been pioneers when it comes to Fairtrade products. They were the first UK supermarket to sell Fairtrade wines, in 2004, and still have the widest range available, accounting for half of all Fairtrade wine sales in the UK, and an impressive 28% globally.

Waitrose also support Fairtrade wine with varieties from Argentina, Chile and South Africa. M&S also offer a range of premium Fairtrade wines from South Africa and Chile, and 100% of Sainsbury’s ‘Taste the Difference’ South African wines are Fairtrade.

Apart from the Co-op though, where there is always a good choice on offer, it is difficult to recommend individual wines, as I have found that despite purporting to support Fairtrade, in other supermarkets it is very much hit and miss.

The Timiluqui label, produced by La Riojana Co-operative in Argentina, the largest co-operative of small-scale farmers in NW Argentina is quite readily available.

South African wines available include those under the Usizo Fairtrade label. In this case the money raised directly benefits important housing and educational projects.

Usizo Pinotage 2013, 13.5%, is a full and fruity red, whilst Usizo Fairtrade Sauvignon Blanc 2016, 12%, is a zesty white from the Breede River Valley. Also from this area of South Africa is their Colombard/Sauvignon Blanc blend, 2016, 12%. All retail at £8.49 a bottle.

Other labels to look out for include – Parcel By Parcel, produced by Consorcio Vinicola de Chile (CVC), Arniston Bay (South Africa), Fairhills (South Africa) and Finca Monteflores (Argentina).

As Lent is a time for reflection on the consequences of our actions, and hope for a better future, we can all play our part. Better still, if you happen to be in Ilminster on March 10^th, stop by Ilminster Bookshop for a free tasting.