Linda Vijeh extols the virtues of ’vin jaune’, the golden wine of Jura which has its own festival to celebrate the release of a new vintage.
At the time of writing it is hard to believe that in just few weeks’ time, especially once the clocks go forward heralding the onset of spring, we shall all be looking forward to some warmer weather. Of course, one of the first signs of spring, already in evidence, are those sunny bright yellow daffodils that cheerfully adorn the wayside.
Thoughts of spring have me thinking of the delightfully unique ‘vin jaune’ from the Jura region in Eastern France, which will certainly add a little sunshine to your life.
Each year, at the end of January, a festival called La Percee du Vin Jaune (Opening of the Yellow Wine) is held to celebrate release of the new vintage which, due to the legal requirements for ageing, will be the one that was harvested in the autumn seven years earlier, in this case 2012.
Now in its 22nd year, this popular festival takes place in a different village in the region each year. This year it is being held in Poligny. I’ve missed the boat this year, but will make sure that it is at the top of my list for 2020.
The wine is strictly controlled by four distinct appellations: Arbois, Cotes du Jura, Chateau-Chalon and Etoile, and is renowned for the subtlety and complexity of its aromas, making it an unforgettable encounter.
The production of ‘vin jaune’, the golden wine of Jura, is unique. It is made from 100% Savagnin grapes, a white variety in the Traminer family, but less aromatic than Gewürtztraminer. The grapes are picked in late October and this late harvesting allows the sugars to develop sufficiently to achieve a potential alcohol level of 13% to 15%.
After pressing, the juice is then fermented slowly and aged six years and three months in old 60-gallon oak barrels. Unlike most wines, the casks are not topped up, which allows an air gap to appear above the wine due to evaporation. As the wine ages a veil of yeast is formed (the voile) on the surface of the wine, protecting it partially from direct contact with the air. During the ageing process the chemical changes that take place contribute to the unique flavours and aromas of ‘vin jaune’, producing a wine that is similar to a dry fino sherry although, unlike sherry, ‘vin jaune’ is not fortified.
The finished wine is then bottled in special squat bottles (clavelins), which hold just 62cl. Historically, this particular bottle size equates to the amount of wine left over from the original one litre of grape juice, after evaporation has taken place during the ageing process.
‘Vin jaune’ is golden in colour, with a brilliant translucent luminosity. It has a complex aromatic nose, full of nuts, spices, dried fruits and floral notes. These characteristics are also evident on the palate, enhanced by hints of green apple and honey.
This is definitely not a quaffing wine, and although it is a white wine, ‘vin jaune’ is usually served at around 13 to 15°C.
Whilst ‘vin jaune’ has tremendous ageing potential, as evidenced by the recent sale at auction of three bottles from 1774 for over £20,000 each, it is still enjoyable in its youth and does benefit from being allowed to breathe before drinking. Decanting allows further exposure to the air to stimulate the wine’s unique aromas. ‘Vin jaune’ goes really well with savoury dishes, including the local Jura dish where chicken is cooked in the wine, producing a delicious sauce, as well as with the local Comte cheese, from the FrancheComte region.
‘Vin jaune’ is not something you are likely to find on your local supermarket shelves, but recent vintages can be had for around £30 from specialist wine merchants, which we should all be supporting, and as luck would have it, on a recent trip to France I picked up a bottle of the 2009 vintage for the bargain price of just 15 euros.
For anyone interested in exploring further this distinctive style of wine it is also worth looking out for other ‘vin jaune’-style wines made in France outside the Jura region, such as Gaillac.
Article in March 2019 Somerset Living Magazine
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