Monday 17 June 2019

WHEN THE POWER GOES TO YOUR HEAD IN THE KITCHEN



I have spent much of my life either working with or for some of the world’s most powerful people. An ‘interesting’ experience to say the least.

What really sets people apart is the way in which they deal with those in a less powerful position than themselves. I have worked from some real stinkers (having my own dubious method of dealing with them, never upset the person who is preparing your food), but what stands out are the few for whom I came to have the utmost respect.

As chef to the British Ambassador to the United Nations in New York I had the privilege of working for Sir. David Hannay. In his office environment he was thought to be a hard taskmaster but in terms of his domestic staff one could not have wished for a more considerate employer; his family were the same, never late for meals, eating anything put in front of them and always keeping us informed of any changes. Sadly, this level of consideration is rare in many working environments today, particularly in the hospitality industry.

It is a tough, constantly changing business, fraught with problems.

The trade is reliant on customers, all of whom have different expectations and who often like to give their egos an airing when dining out.

The industry is also often a haven for those who choose not to go into a more academic career. Yes, in a professional kitchen high standards of discipline are essential to achieve the standard required, but how this is achieved is perhaps not quite conventional by modern day standards, if the chef memoirs that sell like hot cakes are anything to go by.

Eighteen hour days and temperamental chefs are still the norm and some chefs have built their reputation on their aggressive behaviour. Mostly this is tolerated by those who want to bask in the glory of having worked under them, or fed by them.

The problem is that this can all too easily go to their heads. What would be considered unacceptable behaviour elsewhere is allowed to continue unchecked and unchallenged. This is not healthy for anyone in their orbit, and can lead to habits that eventually cause them to self-destruct, leaving chaos in their wake.

I am frequently asked to cook for charitable events and happily volunteer my services to raise money for a good cause and, if my finances allow, donate the food and wine.

What I find extraordinary however, is the number of occasions I hear of high profile chefs who are all too willing to have their name linked to an event to gain free publicity but who then make huge demands. Let’s face it, it is only food and either you can cook or you can’t. It is of course a delight to be presented with an attractive plate of food but the proof of the pudding, as they say, is in the eating.

Those who, having made such a fuss, then cancel at the last minute, are selfish beyond belief. Barring a real emergency, this is unacceptable. In in their shoes, having made the commitment, I would consider it my obligation to make due recompense.

Respect is the key word here, and it can only be earned, not demanded as of right.

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