Although familiar with Sherborne, I have not had the opportunity to visit recently, so having had a look at the menu on offer from chef Matthew Street, I admit that I jumped at the chance of giving Seasons restaurant at The Eastbury Hotel the once over, taking along a friend so that we could try as many dishes as possible. We had not reserved and on a sunny day there were just half a dozen other diners at lunchtime.
Billed as ‘comfort and elegance wrapped in West Country
charm’ the hotel is situated along a quiet street, away from the hustle and
bustle of this popular town centre, yet within easy walking distance.
The restaurant, which boasts 2 AA rosettes, is formal but
not stuffy, and benefits from well-spaced tables. Located at the rear of the
hotel, almost every diner is able to enjoy a view of the walled garden, with
the bonus of a delightful terrace for al fresco dining.
As well as a range of comfortable sitting rooms for
residents’ use, adjacent to the restaurant is a small bar, and it was good to
see that wines by the glass were well priced. I especially enjoyed a small
glass of the French Pinot Noir on offer at just £4.30.
I eat out around 5 times per week and love to try different
flavours, usually preferring several small dishes to a main course, and the
menu, although not huge, did not disappoint. I loved it that many of the dishes
were offered in two sizes; what a great idea.
The food on offer had some interesting options alongside
familiar favourites to please the less adventurous palate (burger, steak, fish
and chips). There is clearly a focus on using local ingredients, supplemented
by fresh produce from the vegetable patch on site.
The menu is à la carte and the same for both lunch and
evening dining, with the addition of a 6-course tasting menu at night, at £45,
plus £25 for wines to match each course, as well as a daily ‘nursery food’
option, which was sausages and mash on our visit.
Tucking into focaccia and olive bread with an unusual
‘tomato’ butter whilst we perused the menu, we opted to share three of the
‘small’ plates (£10) and were pleasantly surprised by the size of the portions.
We enjoyed the crisp bruschetta, which was topped with
flavoursome tomatoes, basil and feta; the squid, with aioli and fennel pollen,
was the best I have had in a long time, light and crisp, and the venison
arancini with Old Winchester cheese was very moreish; I do eat quickly so I
managed to snaffle the most! Almost full by then, but undeterred, we sampled a
small Caesar salad (enough for a hungry person), with smoked chicken, pecorino
and crispy pancetta, which was competently made, and a delicious Vale of
Camelot cheese brulée with chicory, celeriac and candied walnuts.
The side orders of chips (really good, crisp on the outside
and fluffy within) with truffle mayonnaise to add a bit of luxury to the
experience, and a simple salad of peas, with spankingly fresh green beans, soft
goat’s cheese, mint and lemon oil was truly delicious and good value for money.
Not to be outdone, and by now well into my second glass of
wine, Sherborne Castle rosé (I was not driving), we plumped for a sticky toffee
pudding, with clotted cream.
The bill, for three glasses of wine, three tasting dishes, a
starter, a small salad, plus two side dishes, and a pud (phew!), came to just
£54 (£27 a head) which we both felt was a real bargain. Personally, I cannot
wait to return to try the tasting menu.
Key highlights – notably consistent standard
throughout, with good use of seasonal, local ingredients, all well prepared and
presented, and accurately seasoned.
Breakfast – 7am - 9.30am (midweek) 8am - 10am (weekends)
Lunch – 12pm - 2pm
Afternoon Tea – 2.30pm - 5.30pm (24-hours notice required)
Dinner – 6.30pm - 9pm
Long St, Sherborne DT9 3BY
01935 813131
As a professional chef, and in her capacity as a food and
wine writer and hospitality standards consultant, Linda Piggott-Vijeh has been
advising the industry for over 30 years and, to ensure impartiality, she always
pays for her own meals.
If you would like to receive a mystery visit from Linda, or
recommend a local pub, restaurant or café, then contact Max at info@thevisitormagazine.co.uk
Article as seen in The Visitor Magazine - August 2019
Article as seen in The Visitor Magazine - August 2019
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