Tuesday, 14 January 2020

VISITOR - Nov. 2019 - APPLE AND BLACKBERRIES


For as long as I can remember I have not only enjoyed, but actively sought out, sources of free food; mussels on the beach in Cornwall, wild garlic from the hedgerows, scrumping apples, pears, cherries and plums, and of course blackberries in the autumn.

Back in 1987, when living and working in New York as the chef to the British Ambassador to the United Nations, I made front page news when caught picking wild herbs from Central Park. Such was the concern of the park authorities they contacted the ambassador to ask me to desist, but not before I had fed the then French Ambassador the meal of his life!

Lest anyone be concerned about me ‘stealing’ food, it is not illegal to pick fruit from common land, or council-owned land where they are not growing fruit for the purposes of food. 

However, it is illegal to profit commercially from what you make with the harvested fruit; in recent years several local authorities have caused outcry by attempting to ban people from removing "the whole or any part of any plant, shrub or tree", effectively banning blackberry picking.

At this time of year particularly, I reap the benefits of excess produce from friends, and have been avidly picking blackberries and apples. I am sad to say that despite my efforts it seems that so many have gone to waste this year.

In addition to making blackberry and apple crumbles, jams and jellies, I have been busy making a whole range of blackberry liqueurs, using inexpensive spirits.

Commercially there are a number of options available, many of which originate in France, where the blackberry is known as ‘mure, but it is easy to make at home.

Quite simply you fill a bottle with the berries, and add the spirit, along with a little sugar if you like things on the sweet side, give it a shake and shove it in a dark corner for a few weeks. The resulting liqueur makes a great addition to champagne cocktails and is great for an unusual and gift.

Here are a few examples to tempt your taste buds.
  • Lejay Creme De Mure Blackberry Liqueur (15%abv.) £12.99 (70cl.) has subtle flavours, making it brilliant as a cocktail mixer, going exceptionally well in long cocktails and with Champagne.
  • Sovereign Spirits No.2 - Apple and Blackberry Liqueur (20%abv.) £18 (50cl.) is a combination of British gin, with apples and blackberries, and on the nose this smells just like apple crumble and custard.
  • Whitley Neill Handcrafted Blackberry Gin (43%abv.) £20 (70cl.) is evidence that the gin craze shows no sign of abating. Tasting of fresh plump berries and hints of floral hedgerow, the base of delicious, piney juniper is followed by zesty sweet citrus and hints of black pepper. The finish is earthy accompanied by the warmth of spicy cassia.
  • One Gin Sage & Apple (43%abv.) £38.95 (70cl.) is the perfect marriage of their original apple version with the earthy character of sage. An added bonus of this brand is that at least 10% of the profits help to fund water projects in the world's poorest communities.
  • Edinburgh Gin Apple & Spice Liqueur (20%abv.) £16.95 (50cl.) is described as enticingly crisp, brimming with lively exuberance. The apples are macerated with
  • cinnamon, then blended with Edinburgh Gin. Good with soda, served simply over ice, or in a classic Martini.
  • Paddy Spiced Apple Whiskey Liqueur (35%abv.) £28.25 (70cl.) A delicious combination of Paddy's triple-distilled and triple-blended Irish Whiskey and spiced apple flavourings.

    As we are entering the time of year when days are shorter and the weather becomes colder, many of these offerings would make super winter warmers as hot toddies.

    For teetotallers, there are also a number of non-alcoholic options on the market.
  • Jamun Juice (Indian Blackberry) - Basic Ayurveda £5.25 (480ml.) Ideal for those wanting to steer clear of alcohol, made from first press virgin juice, prepared from high altitude grown Jamun, also known as Java Plum or Indian blackberry.
  • Monin, is a popular French brand of syrup, which in their range has a fruity, tangy Blackberry Syrup on offer at £5.79 (70cl.)
  • Fentimans Apple & Blackberry Drink £1.49 (275ml.) is naturally light and fruity drink combining two quintessentially British fruits with natural botanicals to create a fresh and fruity taste.

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