WHERE THERE IS TEA THERE IS HOPE

 

One of the things I have missed most about the enforced time at home during the pandemic is not being able to eat out. As a hotel and restaurant inspector, award judge, for the last 25 years or so I have been in the habit of eating out as much as five times per week. 

My expanding waistline, exacerbated by lockdown, is evidence of the fact that food is, and always has been, at the very top of my personal agenda. When it comes to travel, as friends will testify, I tend to plan all of my holidays around what food and wine I might be able to get my hands on to satisfy the constant craving for gustatory stimulation.  

With no ready access to many of my favourite things, and in an effort to control the urge to eat unsuitable foods at inappropriate times of the day, I have done the next best thing and imposed a high degree of self-inflicted torture by…… reading about them! 

In British households it has always been natural to automatically offer visitors a cup of tea. It gives everyone the chance to take a breather, sit down, and have a good old natter. Despite lockdown restrictions, people do still need to satisfy the desire for human contact, even if only across the garden wall, or within our own limited ‘bubbles’.  

Here is a little soupçon to tickle the gustatory tastebuds at teatime, including publications by some of our most famous institutions, renowned for their afternoon tea. So very British. 

 In the 1990s, when working as chef to the British Ambassador to the UN, I can remember appearing on ‘Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous’ in New York, demonstrating how to make the perfect cup of tea. As I have always been a great fan of George Orwell, to kick start my reading binge I was delighted to re-acquaint myself with his essay, published in 1946, entitled A Nice Cup of Tea, in which he gives his eleven golden rules for the perfect cup of tea. Milk first or last? That is indeed the question. 

A Nice Cup of Tea and a Sit Down, Wifey & Nicey 

This is a little book I have owned for a number of years, which I re-visited recently.  

Somehow it does not seem right to have a cuppa without a biscuit and finding the right biscuit for the right occasion is as much an art as it is a science. From Digestives, to Custard Creams, and Bourbons to Garibaldi, the answer to everything you will ever need to know about biscuits is here; is the Jaffa Cake a cake or a biscuit; have Wagon Wheels got smaller; which biscuit is best for dunking, and for how long? 

The Biscuit: The History of a Very British Indulgence, Lizzie Collingham 

British people eat more biscuits than any other nation. They are not only the perfect accompaniment to a cup of tea. the sustenance they provide is often emotional, conjuring up nostalgic memories of childhood. Goodness knows, we all need a bit of nostalgic comfort at the moment.
This exploration begins in Roman times when 'twice-baked' biscuits, (think biscotti without the sweetness), became the staple of the poor. We are then transported to the Middle East, where the addition of sugar to the dough created the art of confectionery. It was in Britain however that, led by the mass production brought about by the Industrial Revolution, bakers experimented to create the variety of biscuits we enjoy now,  

So, we go full circle from the durable staple for sailors and explorers to decadent luxury for the upper classes. I confess to a passion for Chocolate Bath Olivers. Like a tin of assorted biscuits, this delightful book has something to offer for everyone, combining recipes with amusing snippets of social history.  

The Official Downton Abbey Afternoon Tea Cookbook, Graham Neame 

I am not a particular fan of Downton Abbey, but I do know that it has been very popular amongst women of, shall we say, a certain age; those like myself for whom afternoon tea is still de rigeur. With recipes for intimate afternoon teas taken in the drawing-room, to glamorous tea parties in the garden, this guide to the etiquette and decorum for afternoon tea, along with its plethora of magnificent photographs, makes the perfect gift. 

The Ritz London Book Of Afternoon Tea: The Art and Pleasures of Taking Tea, Helen Simpson 

Despite its tendency towards being more of a magnet for tourists these days, along with its rigid time slots, there remains a sense of theatre at The Ritz. It is still the place to go for tea. 

This Edwardian-style book captures the essence of our favourite traditional British pastime. Stories about the legendary afternoon teas at The Ritz and fascinating details about the history of tea drinking are complemented with passages from such diverse writers as Charles Dickens to Oscar Wilde. Beautifully presented and charmingly illustrated, this book is the ideal gift for tea drinkers everywhere, and one that I often send to Anglophile friends abroad. 

Tea Fit for a Queen: Recipes & Drinks for Afternoon Tea                                                         

Produced by the historic royal palaces, this is stuffed full of recipes that have stood the test of time, along with intriguing anecdotes and tales. We learn about infamous royals and their connection to the history of tea; why jam pennies were Queen Elizabeth II's favourite teatime treat and why orange-scented scones became a royal tradition at Kensington Palace. A taste of palace etiquette to recreate at home. 

Taking Tea at The Savoy, Anton Edelmann 

I have always been a Savoy girl at heart. During my early days as a Hotel & Restaurant Inspector, I had the pleasure of meeting Anton on a number of occasions, and even dined in the kitchen with him; what a treat that was. Here he writes about the importance of the ceremony of taking tea itself. The book culminates in a delightful account of an elegant bygone age.  

Tea at Fortnum & Mason 

This internationally renowned store in Piccadilly is synonymous with style, elegance, and English charm. On rare trips up to London I love to listen to the chimes of the magnificent clock in the entrance hall and can never leave without a box of their rose and violet creams, if only for the elegant stylish packaging. Recipes include rose biscuits and lemon curd meringues, guiding the reader through the best types of tea to accompany them. In addition to their famous tea blends, of which my two favourites are their Royal Blend and Queen Anne Blend, Fortnum have recently launched their own Bespoke Tea Blending Service. The ideal gift for the person who has everything perhaps?