SOMERSET DAY - CIDER – THE PRECURSOR TO CHAMPAGNE

 

I am always up for a celebration, and having come to live in Somerset over 25 years ago, I have constantly marvelled at the wonderful diversity and distinct landscape across the county. I consider myself very lucky indeed to be living here.

Since we first started to celebrate Somerset Day in 2015, there have been plenty of reasons to celebrate, and when it comes to a good old-fashioned knees up, there are few better ways to commemorate the occasion than with our splendid local produce, our most famous export, Cheddar cheese, and of course our award-winning, cider.

Since an embarrassing ‘incident’ at the tender age of 11, I have consumed very little cider, but was lured into giving it another go by a recent virtual cider tasting held as part of a monthly online get together with likeminded friends.

My choice, rather limited by the availability in my local village shop, was Perry’s Vintage, barrel-aged, cider. I have to say it was a rather pleasant experience, and one I would willingly repeat.

Cider, an alcoholic drink made from fermented apple (https://www.greatbritishchefs.com/ingredients/apple-recipes) juice, comes in a variety of styles; still, naturally sparkling, bottle-fermented, dry, medium, sweet, and of course, our renowned cider apple brandy, which, in 1989, after a four year battle secured EU protection in being granted Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status, giving it the same standing as other protected heritage foods

In the UK we consume more cider than any other country. As a consequence, 56% of all apples grown here are used to make cider.

I would advise steering well clear of the commercial gut rot stuff, available for peanuts in your local supermarket. Sadly, the majority of cider now consumed in the UK is made by diluting concentrated apple juice (often imported) adding sugar, preservatives, and colouring. This process that can take as little as three weeks, compared with decent artisanal cider which can take months, if not years, to mature.

Good quality cider, which Charles I was partial to, is made of 100% freshly pressed apple juice, which is then fermented slowly for months and aged, often in oak barrels. Think of it as being the apple equivalent of wine.

Cider has a long and distinguished history. There is evidence that Celts in Britain made cider from crab apples as long ago as 3000 BC, but it was the Roman invasion that introduced apple cultivars and orcharding techniques to England. Vikings were also keen cider drinkers, which explains why in France there is a tradition of cider-drinking in Normandy which still exists to this day.

After the Norman invasion in 1066 cider-making was improved by the introduction of tannic and acidic cider apples and by the early 1300s cider was being made in almost every county in England as far north as Yorkshire. Today the West Country is the leading cider-producing region, and home the world's largest cider maker, Bulmer.

By the 17th century cider-makers were producing sparkling cider using a secondary fermentation in reinforced glass bottles and sealed with corks on papers. The significance of this is that they were doing it before Dom Perignon, the man widely credited as inventing Champagne.

By the end of the 18th century cider orchards were starting to become neglected. As commercial cider producers began to expand small farmers started selling their apple-growing land to those powerful businesses, destroying ancient orchards, and with them old cider apple varieties. This was further compounded when in the 1960s big producers were using fewer of the traditional tannin-rich apple varieties, preferring apples that would make more approachable, easy-drinking cider.

Legally, cider can be made with as a little as 35% apple juice, meaning that most of the content can be water. There is no comparison between these ciders and the excellent 100% fresh juice ciders that are distinguished by their individuality.

It is well worth seeking out local producers to explore artisanal products made with fresh apple juice and a dedication to quality and individuality.

The finished cider will be influenced by the variety of apple used and the simplest way of categorising British styles is to focus on the type of apple used - cider apples or domestic eating and cooking apples; there is a vast difference between the two.

In the UK there is a geographical split in the types of apples used to make cider. Here in the West Country (Somerset, Herefordshire, Worcestershire, Devon, Gloucestershire and Monmouthshire) we have traditional cider apple varieties with poetic names such as Handsome Norman, Foxwhelp and Porter’s Perfection. Elsewhere, in Kent, Sussex, and eastern counties such as Suffolk, cider is traditionally made with domestic apples such as Gala, Russet and Cox.

Cider apples come in four categories – bitter sharp (tannic and acidic), bittersweet (tannic and sweet), sharp (acidic) and sweet.

Cider producers will usually aim to achieve what is known as the ‘Holy Trinity’, a balance between tannins, acidity and sweetness. This will often be achieved by blending the juice from several different varieties; much like the process used in making wine, although some single varieties, such as Kingston Black, can tick all the boxes.

When choosing your cider, if you enjoy tannic red wines then choose one made from West Country cider apples. By contrast, if lighter white wines are your preferred tipple, then cider made with eating and cooking apples that provide a refreshing zestiness will be more to your taste.

Nowadays ciders that include fruit and flowers (for instance blackberry and elderflower) or herbs and spices (such as cinnamon and ginger) have also become very popular.

Cider with hops, which bestows a subtle lemon character, and barrel-aged styles, where the wood introduces flavours such as vanilla are also worth exploring.

Then we have ice cider, a dream for those who enjoy intense sweetness. Made from apples, or their juice, that has been frozen, the sugars become highly concentrated, giving the cider a more full-bodied texture. As the climate in the UK is rarely cold enough for apples to freeze prior to being picked, it is the resulting juice that is frozen. The best ice ciders have a combination of tannins and acidity to balance out the sugar. Ice cider is really good with blue cheese.

Lastly, as a brilliant night cap, we come to The Somerset Cider Brandy Company. Aged in oak barrels for a minimum of three years, it is fruity and complex.

With such a diverse range of fabulous Somerset appley beverages to explore and enjoy what’s not to celebrate?!

‘Everybody thinks I drink beer, but I actually like cider’ – Prince William.

KNOWING WHEN TO QUIT

 

I am always amazed and impressed by tales of people who remain fit and healthy well into their eighties and beyond and who still manage to put in a full day’s work, continuing to contribute in a meaningful way.

When interviewed, many of them cite the fact that continuing to work gives their days a purpose, a reason to get out of bed in the morning.

I confess that there are many days, after a sleepless night, when I wish that I did not have to get out of bed!

Given that we are all living longer, it seems unjust that many perfectly able bodied people are forced to retire.

Despite legislation, we know that age discrimination does still exist in many professions although fortunately, some seem not to be constrained by age limitations. This can have its advantages but can also have its drawbacks. Where there is an insistence on carrying on come what may it can prevent other younger able candidates from entering into the fray and can also diminish a previously distinguished reputation. Is it pride that keeps people going well beyond their sell-by date?

Several examples spring to mind. Many years ago, when living in Chicago, I went to see Frank Sinatra perform. Then well into his seventies and still living the dream, he was quite honestly dreadful. For me, it completely shattered the illusion. More recently, during lockdown, I have been watching an excessive amount ‘junk’ TV, including celebrity panel and quiz shows. On several occasions I have felt forced to switch channels when some of our more mature contestants, who are considered to be national treasures, were clearly not able to perform with any level of competence. I felt embarrassed on their behalf. They must have jolly good agents, but I wonder if this is ultimately to their detriment.

Elsewhere, in the last week or so our local authorities scrambling to have their annual meetings before HM government prevents us from holding official gatherings virtually. As is the norm at these meetings, decisions are made to allocate senior positions of responsibility and Chairmanship of committees. This is usually in the gift of the ruling political party, taking into account political balance where required. I am passionate about fairness and democracy and believe that when taking decisions on behalf of those we represent it must be done without fear or favour, and that appointments should be based on a person’s suitability, based on their skills, knowledge and experience, not with one eye on the political arena. Sadly, this is often far from the case. As might have been expected, some of the recent decisions taken within our local government have not found favour, a view I am inclined to share. The evidence of jobs for the boys (or girls), which often bring a financial gain, is there for all to see. In essence it means that we, who foot the bill, are unwittingly accepting a lower level of competence, and sometimes a lack of commitment, from those who represent us.

I only hope that when the time comes, I know when to hang up my hat and retire gracefully with a modicum of dignity remaining, and that I have those around me who will feel able to tell me so.