I am always up for a celebration, and having come to live in
Somerset over 25 years ago, I have constantly marvelled at the wonderful
diversity and distinct landscape across the county. I consider myself very
lucky indeed to be living here.
Since we first started to celebrate Somerset Day in 2015, there have been
plenty of reasons to celebrate, and when it comes to a good old-fashioned knees
up, there are few better ways to commemorate the occasion than with our
splendid local produce, our most famous export, Cheddar cheese, and of course
our award-winning, cider.
Since an embarrassing ‘incident’ at the tender age of 11, I have consumed very
little cider, but was lured into giving it another go by a recent virtual cider
tasting held as part of a monthly online get together with likeminded friends.
My choice, rather limited by the availability in my local village shop, was
Perry’s Vintage, barrel-aged, cider. I have to say it was a rather pleasant
experience, and one I would willingly repeat.
Cider, an alcoholic drink made from fermented
apple (https://www.greatbritishchefs.com/ingredients/apple-recipes) juice,
comes in a variety of styles; still, naturally sparkling, bottle-fermented,
dry, medium, sweet, and of course, our renowned cider apple brandy, which, in
1989, after a four year battle secured EU protection in being granted Protected
Geographical Indication (PGI) status, giving it the same standing as other
protected heritage foods
In the UK we consume more cider than any other country. As a consequence, 56%
of all apples grown here are used to make cider.
I would advise steering well clear of the commercial gut rot stuff, available
for peanuts in your local supermarket. Sadly, the majority of cider now
consumed in the UK is made by diluting concentrated apple juice (often
imported) adding sugar, preservatives, and colouring. This process that can
take as little as three weeks, compared with decent artisanal cider which can
take months, if not years, to mature.
Good quality cider, which Charles I was partial to, is made of 100% freshly
pressed apple juice, which is then fermented slowly for months and aged, often
in oak barrels. Think of it as being the apple equivalent of wine.
Cider has a long and distinguished history. There is evidence that Celts in
Britain made cider from crab apples as long ago as 3000 BC, but it was the
Roman invasion that introduced apple cultivars and orcharding techniques to
England. Vikings were also keen cider drinkers, which explains why in France
there is a tradition of cider-drinking in Normandy which still exists to this
day.
After the Norman invasion in 1066 cider-making was improved by the introduction
of tannic and acidic cider apples and by the early 1300s cider was being made
in almost every county in England as far north as Yorkshire. Today the West
Country is the leading cider-producing region, and home the world's largest
cider maker, Bulmer.
By the 17th century cider-makers were producing sparkling cider using a
secondary fermentation in reinforced glass bottles and sealed with corks on
papers. The significance of this is that they were doing it before Dom
Perignon, the man widely credited as inventing Champagne.
By the end of the 18th century cider orchards were starting to become
neglected. As commercial cider producers began to expand small farmers started
selling their apple-growing land to those powerful businesses, destroying
ancient orchards, and with them old cider apple varieties. This was further
compounded when in the 1960s big producers were using fewer of the traditional
tannin-rich apple varieties, preferring apples that would make more
approachable, easy-drinking cider.
Legally, cider can be made with as a little as 35% apple juice, meaning that
most of the content can be water. There is no comparison between these ciders
and the excellent 100% fresh juice ciders that are distinguished by their
individuality.
It is well worth seeking out local producers to explore artisanal products made
with fresh apple juice and a dedication to quality and individuality.
The finished cider will be influenced by the variety of apple used and the
simplest way of categorising British styles is to focus on the type of apple
used - cider apples or domestic eating and cooking apples; there is a vast
difference between the two.
In the UK there is a geographical split in the types of apples used to make
cider. Here in the West Country (Somerset, Herefordshire, Worcestershire,
Devon, Gloucestershire and Monmouthshire) we have traditional cider apple
varieties with poetic names such as Handsome Norman, Foxwhelp and Porter’s
Perfection. Elsewhere, in Kent, Sussex, and eastern counties such as Suffolk,
cider is traditionally made with domestic apples such as Gala, Russet and Cox.
Cider apples come in four categories – bitter sharp (tannic and acidic),
bittersweet (tannic and sweet), sharp (acidic) and sweet.
Cider producers will usually aim to achieve what is known as the ‘Holy
Trinity’, a balance between tannins, acidity and sweetness. This will often be
achieved by blending the juice from several different varieties; much like the
process used in making wine, although some single varieties, such as Kingston
Black, can tick all the boxes.
When choosing your cider, if you enjoy tannic red wines then choose one made
from West Country cider apples. By contrast, if lighter white wines are your
preferred tipple, then cider made with eating and cooking apples that provide a
refreshing zestiness will be more to your taste.
Nowadays ciders that include fruit and flowers (for instance blackberry and
elderflower) or herbs and spices (such as cinnamon and ginger) have also become
very popular.
Cider with hops, which bestows a subtle lemon character, and barrel-aged
styles, where the wood introduces flavours such as vanilla are also worth
exploring.
Then we have ice cider, a dream for those who enjoy intense sweetness. Made
from apples, or their juice, that has been frozen, the sugars become highly
concentrated, giving the cider a more full-bodied texture. As the climate in
the UK is rarely cold enough for apples to freeze prior to being picked, it is
the resulting juice that is frozen. The best ice ciders have a combination of
tannins and acidity to balance out the sugar. Ice cider is really good with
blue cheese.
Lastly, as a brilliant night cap, we come to The Somerset Cider Brandy Company.
Aged in oak barrels for a minimum of three years, it is fruity and complex.
With such a diverse range of fabulous Somerset appley beverages to explore and
enjoy what’s not to celebrate?!
‘Everybody thinks I drink beer, but I actually like cider’ – Prince William.
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