My
recent trip to the Balkan states of Croatia, Bosnia-Hercegovina and Montenegro
had been planned long before the situation in the Ukraine began to dominate our
media. I had been apprehensive that a combination of Covid travel restrictions,
and fears of an escalation of the war, would mean the trip would be cancelled, but
thankfully not.
From
previous experience I know that travelling to war-torn areas of the world can
reap many benefits; the absence of hordes of tourists, greater value for money,
and the fact that the native population are so grateful to have visitors they
welcome you with open arms.
With
its unspoiled sandy beaches, historic architecture and awe-inspiring scenery, Montenegro
is a much sought-after travel destination.
Where
others may focus their travels on specific aspects of a country, its history,
nature, wildlife etc., my focus is always on food and wine.
This
was an organised tour (the subject of another article) and during our first
week as much as visits to UNESCO World Heritage Sites were worthwhile, changing
hotels every night made is more difficult to get to grips with an area. Thankfully
during our second we week we were able to stay put in one place, in Bečići, just
outside the popular holiday town of Budva (which must be a nightmare in the
summer months), giving me the opportunity to explore the Montenegrin vineyard
region in some depth.
Whilst
in many countries it can be advantageous to take part in an organised tour, this
was not all necessary in Montenegro, where the crime rate is very low, and
outside of peak holiday times getting out and about is hassle-free.
I
would advise against booking one of the many organised ‘wine tours’ available.
Starting at around €50 per person they do not offer good value for money. The
road network, and signage, is good, car hire is inexpensive at €22 per day,
including insurance, and driving is stress free. Many of the vineyards are
one-man bands and whilst there are advantages to having a guide, especially as
many vineyard owners do not speak English, they are always welcoming, and most
are willing to provide tastings free of charge. Do be aware that some wineries
are open by reservation only.
Many
Montenegrin vineyards are located in the southern and coastal regions of the
country, around beautiful Lake Skadar, also renowned for its trout, carp and
eel, all of which I was able to sample at bargain basement prices.
Montenegro’s
mild climate ensures excellent conditions for wine production, with wines made
from a wide range of grape varieties including native varieties such as Krstač
and Vranac, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Chardonnay, amongst
others.
Also,
not to be missed is the hillside village of Njeguši on the slopes of Mount
Lovćen, with a population of just 35, and where they produce superb Proscuitto
(pršut), good enough to rival that produced in Parma, Italy. The
particular flavour and aroma of pršut is the result of the mixture of
sea and mountain air and the beech wood burned during the lengthy drying
process, which can take up to two years to complete. Also worth looking out for,
is the fresh local cheese and intensely perfumed honey. Production of these
local delicacies is largely a cottage industry, where tastings and sales are
conducted from the kitchen of someone’s home.
When
shopping locally or eating out, except in larger hotels and restaurants in the
main tourist areas, it is worth noting that this is largely a cash economy where
credit cards are not usually accepted.
Widely
considered Montenegro’s national drink, a good deal of the distilled spirit
known as rakija is also produced. Said to be a restorative, instantly
destroying bacteria, it gives relief to stomach and muscle pain, annihilating
viruses and disinfects wounds. I am left wondering that whilst many of my
fellow travellers seemed to be stricken with one ailment or another, it must be
the quantity I imbibed that kept me in good health. It is considered obligatory
when welcoming someone to your home to offer them a glass of this. Rakija,
very similar to the Grappa popular in Italy, can be made out of almost any
fruit and has an alcohol content ranging from 40% to 80%, or higher. Most
households make their own, with that made from grapes (Loza) being the
most popular.
Of
the many vineyards along this route here are a few worth trying, and whose
wines I enjoyed. The average price for their most recent vintages was in the
region of €10 a bottle. For the smaller producers wine sales are on site only,
and very few are available to buy in the UK at the moment, but then you would
be missing out on a delightful travel experience!
Cemovsko
Field
This
is the largest vineyard on one site in Europe, stretching an impressive 2310 ha.,
owned by the Montenegrin company 13.Jul Plantaže and established in 1963. For
me, small has always been beautiful. Very consumer focused, at this commercial operation
they offer a variety of tastings and tours (€12 - €22). They seem to supply
many of the hotels and restaurants with the mini 187ml. bottles of house wine
on offer, where I would compare the quality with the standard offering of our
local pubs; drinkable but unremarkable.
At
the premium end of their offerings there are however several award-winning
wines available at around £24 a bottle.
Plantaže
Wines, Put Radomira Ivanovića, br.2, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38220658028
Mola
Family Vineyards
Situated
in the Podgorica wine region this sizeable family-owned estate is situated in
the picturesque village of Rogami. Just minutes away from the ruins of the
Roman village Duklja, the mountainous setting makes for prime wine growing
conditions, with the sun- drenched surroundings cultivating excellent grape
crops. The Mola family produce a variety of wines including a merlot, a
cabernet sauvignon, and a white and red blend.
Mola
Family Vineyards, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38267867691
Radevic
Estate
This
small, family run vineyard lies just outside of Podgorica city is also in the
village of Rogami. The Radevik family pride themselves on their ability to grow
and produce original, quality wines using sustainable, organic farming
techniques. The wines produced here include a blend of Vranac, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Syrah. There is a comfortable guest house situated on the grounds of the
estate, and watch out for their super-strength Rakiji.
Radevic
Estate, Rogami-Piperi bb, Podgorica, Montenegro. +382-69-276-055
Vinarija
Bogojević
This
family-run vineyard boasts generations of wine-making experience. Their rustic,
homely estate and flourishing vineyard produces a celebrated Bogdan wine, a
dense, dark red with hints of vanilla, blueberry, and cassis. As well as wine,
Vinarija Bogojević also produces grappa in both a traditional and herbal
variety. With beautiful views over Skadar Lake, this vineyard provides its visitors
with experiences to remember.
Vinarija
Bogojević, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38267533001
Castel
Savina
Castel
Savina is situated in the historic region of Herceg-Novi, an area of historical
significance in Montenegro featuring a beautiful monastery founded by the Duke
of Saint Sava. With breath-taking views over the Bay of Kotor, Castel Savina’s luscious
greenery and impressive surroundings provide an ideal backdrop for wine
tasting. Producing a range which includes a Merlot, a Cabernet Sauvignon, a Grenache
rosé and a Chardonnay, there is something for everyone here. The winemakers
employ techniques perfected over years in the industry to produce excellent,
first-rate products every time. Castel Savina is a family run venue, the only
winery in the bay of Kotor and on the Montenegrin coast in general.
Tours
by reservation only.
Castel
Savina, Branka Ćopića 7d, Herceg Novi, Montenegro +382 69 042022
Milović
Winery
This
substantial vineyard and olive plantation produces around 20,000 bottles of
wine a year, and is nestled just outside of Ulcinj, the Southernmost town in
Montenegro. A thriving seaside region famous for its unspoiled beaches, the
area provides ideal conditions for growing grapes. Generating a number of
Barrique-stored red wines, the traditional Vranacs here are rich and dark ruby
coloured, combining a mixture of forest fruit, cranberry and vanilla flavours. Guests
can also stay in the Milović Winery’s apartment complex, with its own tennis
court and swimming pool overlooking the gorgeous Montenegrin wine country. Be
sure to enjoy a glass in their rustic, cosy wine cellar.
Milović
Winery, Briska Gora, Ulcinj, Montenegro. +38267350526
Winery
Mašanović
Winery
Mašanović is situated in the small town of Virpazar on Lake Skadar, the largest
lake in the Balkan peninsula, and a vast national park that in 2011 was
nominated as a UNESCO world heritage site. The beauty of the surroundings make
this vineyard a stunning place to explore, and the mild climate and natural
fertility of the soil make for robust and tasty wines with unique flavours.
Established in 1969, this vineyard and winery grows six type of grapes and
specialises in the traditional Montenegrin Vranec wine, a dark red variety with
flavours of dark chocolate, fruit and burnt oak. Also produced here are a range
of brandies, as well as cherry and walnut liqueurs made from organic fruits
grown on the property.
This
family-owned winery has the longest tradition in winemaking and wine growing in
Montenegro and is known for its dry red wines which take on a deep dark red
hue, with purple tones. Here I was able to sample many of their barrique aged
wines.
KRIN
barrique is their top level dry red wine, made from Vranac. On the palate the
wine tastes like burnt oak (they use French barriques), with raspberry and
cranberry fruit flavours.
DIONIS
barrique – made by blending 3 grape varieties, Vranac, Marselan and Petit
Verdot.
BUĆA
barrique – made from a blend of 5 grape varieties, Vranac, Marselan, Petit
Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. This is produced in limited
quantities of just 500 bottles, and is characterised by dark chocolate and
cinnamon aromas which follow through on the palate.
TRE
SORELLE barrique (semi-sweet) - the late harvesting of selected berries
increases naturally the concentration of sugar in for this blend of Marselan,
Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Full bodied, round and complex with a rich
fruity-creamy aftertaste and chocolate finish.
Winery
Mašanović, Virpazar, Montenegro. ++382069063460
www.
masanovic.blogspot.com
The
Sjekloća Estate
This
winery produces just a few thousand bottles of wine a year, giving it an air of
exclusivity. Vineyard owner Milenko K. Sjekloća was born in Crmnica, the heart
of Montenegrin wine country, and has a reputation for unbeatable wine
knowledge. His expertise has enabled him to create truly original and
innovative flavours of wine at his estate. The traditional Vranac wine here is
aged for 12 months before bottling, and the cellar boasts a large number of
vintage bottles varying in type and taste.
For
€50 visitors can tour the vineyards and cellar with the expert guidance of the
owner, taste t3 vintage wines and obtain wines not available of the open
market.
The
Sjekloća Estate, Milenko Sjekloća,Limljani bb, Virpazar, Montenegro.
+382020712
231
Rupice
Winery
With
a rich history dating back to the early 20th century, the wines of Rupice
Winery have been internationally renowned since they were first sampled at the
Balkan Wine Fair in London, back in 1907. Located in Rupice Komanske just west
of Podgorica, the owners here produce premium quality wine and brandy with the
help of the area’s microclimate.
Respecting
the traditional methods implemented by the winery’s first owners, Rupice cultivates
its grapes in limited quantities to prevent overproduction, and practices
biodynamic farming methods. Their Di Vine branded red wine has a rich fruity
aroma, cherry taste and velvety texture.
Rupice
Winery,b13 Moskovska, Podgorica, Montenegro +38268313068
Vinarija
Buk
This
private vineyard and winery lies in the village of Bukovik, also in the famous
Crmnica wine growing region, with a total grapevine count of over 6000. The
Vinarija Buk wines include a traditional Vranac, an enticing Marselan, and a
medium-bodied French wine grape variety first developed by crossing a Cabernet Sauvignon
with a black Grenache.
Vinarija
Buk, Bukovik, Montenegro. +38267528853.
With
building work being carried out at some pace across Montenegro, due to inward
investment taking advantage of the favourable tax system here, I fear for the future
of the unspoilt areas of this beautiful country. My advice, visit as soon as
you can before the high-rise hotels fully take hold.
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