Monday 9 May 2022

THE MAGIC OF MONTENEGRO


My recent trip to the Balkan states of Croatia, Bosnia-Hercegovina and Montenegro had been planned long before the situation in the Ukraine began to dominate our media. I had been apprehensive that a combination of Covid travel restrictions, and fears of an escalation of the war, would mean the trip would be cancelled, but thankfully not.

From previous experience I know that travelling to war-torn areas of the world can reap many benefits; the absence of hordes of tourists, greater value for money, and the fact that the native population are so grateful to have visitors they welcome you with open arms.

With its unspoiled sandy beaches, historic architecture and awe-inspiring scenery, Montenegro is a much sought-after travel destination.

Where others may focus their travels on specific aspects of a country, its history, nature, wildlife etc., my focus is always on food and wine.

This was an organised tour (the subject of another article) and during our first week as much as visits to UNESCO World Heritage Sites were worthwhile, changing hotels every night made is more difficult to get to grips with an area. Thankfully during our second we week we were able to stay put in one place, in Bečići, just outside the popular holiday town of Budva (which must be a nightmare in the summer months), giving me the opportunity to explore the Montenegrin vineyard region in some depth.

Whilst in many countries it can be advantageous to take part in an organised tour, this was not all necessary in Montenegro, where the crime rate is very low, and outside of peak holiday times getting out and about is hassle-free.

I would advise against booking one of the many organised ‘wine tours’ available. Starting at around €50 per person they do not offer good value for money. The road network, and signage, is good, car hire is inexpensive at €22 per day, including insurance, and driving is stress free. Many of the vineyards are one-man bands and whilst there are advantages to having a guide, especially as many vineyard owners do not speak English, they are always welcoming, and most are willing to provide tastings free of charge. Do be aware that some wineries are open by reservation only.

Many Montenegrin vineyards are located in the southern and coastal regions of the country, around beautiful Lake Skadar, also renowned for its trout, carp and eel, all of which I was able to sample at bargain basement prices.

Montenegro’s mild climate ensures excellent conditions for wine production, with wines made from a wide range of grape varieties including native varieties such as Krstač and Vranac, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Chardonnay, amongst others.

Also, not to be missed is the hillside village of Njeguši on the slopes of Mount Lovćen, with a population of just 35, and where they produce superb Proscuitto (pršut), good enough to rival that produced in Parma, Italy. The particular flavour and aroma of pršut is the result of the mixture of sea and mountain air and the beech wood burned during the lengthy drying process, which can take up to two years to complete. Also worth looking out for, is the fresh local cheese and intensely perfumed honey. Production of these local delicacies is largely a cottage industry, where tastings and sales are conducted from the kitchen of someone’s home.

When shopping locally or eating out, except in larger hotels and restaurants in the main tourist areas, it is worth noting that this is largely a cash economy where credit cards are not usually accepted.

Widely considered Montenegro’s national drink, a good deal of the distilled spirit known as rakija is also produced. Said to be a restorative, instantly destroying bacteria, it gives relief to stomach and muscle pain, annihilating viruses and disinfects wounds. I am left wondering that whilst many of my fellow travellers seemed to be stricken with one ailment or another, it must be the quantity I imbibed that kept me in good health. It is considered obligatory when welcoming someone to your home to offer them a glass of this. Rakija, very similar to the Grappa popular in Italy, can be made out of almost any fruit and has an alcohol content ranging from 40% to 80%, or higher. Most households make their own, with that made from grapes (Loza) being the most popular.

Of the many vineyards along this route here are a few worth trying, and whose wines I enjoyed. The average price for their most recent vintages was in the region of €10 a bottle. For the smaller producers wine sales are on site only, and very few are available to buy in the UK at the moment, but then you would be missing out on a delightful travel experience!

 

Cemovsko Field

This is the largest vineyard on one site in Europe, stretching an impressive 2310 ha., owned by the Montenegrin company 13.Jul Plantaže and established in 1963. For me, small has always been beautiful. Very consumer focused, at this commercial operation they offer a variety of tastings and tours (€12 - €22). They seem to supply many of the hotels and restaurants with the mini 187ml. bottles of house wine on offer, where I would compare the quality with the standard offering of our local pubs; drinkable but unremarkable.

At the premium end of their offerings there are however several award-winning wines available at around £24 a bottle.

Plantaže Wines, Put Radomira Ivanovića, br.2, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38220658028

www.plantaze.com

 

Mola Family Vineyards

Situated in the Podgorica wine region this sizeable family-owned estate is situated in the picturesque village of Rogami. Just minutes away from the ruins of the Roman village Duklja, the mountainous setting makes for prime wine growing conditions, with the sun- drenched surroundings cultivating excellent grape crops. The Mola family produce a variety of wines including a merlot, a cabernet sauvignon, and a white and red blend.

Mola Family Vineyards, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38267867691

 

Radevic Estate

This small, family run vineyard lies just outside of Podgorica city is also in the village of Rogami. The Radevik family pride themselves on their ability to grow and produce original, quality wines using sustainable, organic farming techniques. The wines produced here include a blend of Vranac, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. There is a comfortable guest house situated on the grounds of the estate, and watch out for their super-strength Rakiji.

Radevic Estate, Rogami-Piperi bb, Podgorica, Montenegro. +382-69-276-055

www.radevicestate.com

 

Vinarija Bogojević

This family-run vineyard boasts generations of wine-making experience. Their rustic, homely estate and flourishing vineyard produces a celebrated Bogdan wine, a dense, dark red with hints of vanilla, blueberry, and cassis. As well as wine, Vinarija Bogojević also produces grappa in both a traditional and herbal variety. With beautiful views over Skadar Lake, this vineyard provides its visitors with experiences to remember.

Vinarija Bogojević, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38267533001

www.bogojevic.me

 

Castel Savina

Castel Savina is situated in the historic region of Herceg-Novi, an area of historical significance in Montenegro featuring a beautiful monastery founded by the Duke of Saint Sava. With breath-taking views over the Bay of Kotor, Castel Savina’s luscious greenery and impressive surroundings provide an ideal backdrop for wine tasting. Producing a range which includes a Merlot, a Cabernet Sauvignon, a Grenache rosé and a Chardonnay, there is something for everyone here. The winemakers employ techniques perfected over years in the industry to produce excellent, first-rate products every time. Castel Savina is a family run venue, the only winery in the bay of Kotor and on the Montenegrin coast in general.

Tours by reservation only.

Castel Savina, Branka Ćopića 7d, Herceg Novi, Montenegro  +382 69 042022

www.castelsavina.me

 

Milović Winery

This substantial vineyard and olive plantation produces around 20,000 bottles of wine a year, and is nestled just outside of Ulcinj, the Southernmost town in Montenegro. A thriving seaside region famous for its unspoiled beaches, the area provides ideal conditions for growing grapes. Generating a number of Barrique-stored red wines, the traditional Vranacs here are rich and dark ruby coloured, combining a mixture of forest fruit, cranberry and vanilla flavours. Guests can also stay in the Milović Winery’s apartment complex, with its own tennis court and swimming pool overlooking the gorgeous Montenegrin wine country. Be sure to enjoy a glass in their rustic, cosy wine cellar.

Milović Winery, Briska Gora, Ulcinj, Montenegro. +38267350526

 

Winery Mašanović

Winery Mašanović is situated in the small town of Virpazar on Lake Skadar, the largest lake in the Balkan peninsula, and a vast national park that in 2011 was nominated as a UNESCO world heritage site. The beauty of the surroundings make this vineyard a stunning place to explore, and the mild climate and natural fertility of the soil make for robust and tasty wines with unique flavours. Established in 1969, this vineyard and winery grows six type of grapes and specialises in the traditional Montenegrin Vranec wine, a dark red variety with flavours of dark chocolate, fruit and burnt oak. Also produced here are a range of brandies, as well as cherry and walnut liqueurs made from organic fruits grown on the property.

This family-owned winery has the longest tradition in winemaking and wine growing in Montenegro and is known for its dry red wines which take on a deep dark red hue, with purple tones. Here I was able to sample many of their barrique aged wines.

KRIN barrique is their top level dry red wine, made from Vranac. On the palate the wine tastes like burnt oak (they use French barriques), with raspberry and cranberry fruit flavours.

DIONIS barrique – made by blending 3 grape varieties, Vranac, Marselan and Petit Verdot.

BUĆA barrique – made from a blend of 5 grape varieties, Vranac, Marselan, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. This is produced in limited quantities of just 500 bottles, and is characterised by dark chocolate and cinnamon aromas which follow through on the palate.

TRE SORELLE barrique (semi-sweet) - the late harvesting of selected berries increases naturally the concentration of sugar in for this blend of Marselan, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Full bodied, round and complex with a rich fruity-creamy aftertaste and chocolate finish.

Winery Mašanović, Virpazar, Montenegro. ++382069063460

www. masanovic.blogspot.com

 

 

The Sjekloća Estate

This winery produces just a few thousand bottles of wine a year, giving it an air of exclusivity. Vineyard owner Milenko K. Sjekloća was born in Crmnica, the heart of Montenegrin wine country, and has a reputation for unbeatable wine knowledge. His expertise has enabled him to create truly original and innovative flavours of wine at his estate. The traditional Vranac wine here is aged for 12 months before bottling, and the cellar boasts a large number of vintage bottles varying in type and taste.

For €50 visitors can tour the vineyards and cellar with the expert guidance of the owner, taste t3 vintage wines and obtain wines not available of the open market.

The Sjekloća Estate, Milenko Sjekloća,Limljani bb, Virpazar, Montenegro.

+382020712 231

www.sjeklocavino.com

 

Rupice Winery

With a rich history dating back to the early 20th century, the wines of Rupice Winery have been internationally renowned since they were first sampled at the Balkan Wine Fair in London, back in 1907. Located in Rupice Komanske just west of Podgorica, the owners here produce premium quality wine and brandy with the help of the area’s microclimate.

Respecting the traditional methods implemented by the winery’s first owners, Rupice cultivates its grapes in limited quantities to prevent overproduction, and practices biodynamic farming methods. Their Di Vine branded red wine has a rich fruity aroma, cherry taste and velvety texture.

Rupice Winery,b13 Moskovska, Podgorica, Montenegro +38268313068

www.rupice.me/montenegro

 

Vinarija Buk

This private vineyard and winery lies in the village of Bukovik, also in the famous Crmnica wine growing region, with a total grapevine count of over 6000. The Vinarija Buk wines include a traditional Vranac, an enticing Marselan, and a medium-bodied French wine grape variety first developed by crossing a Cabernet Sauvignon with a black Grenache.

Vinarija Buk, Bukovik, Montenegro. +38267528853.

www.bukwinery.blogspot.com

 

With building work being carried out at some pace across Montenegro, due to inward investment taking advantage of the favourable tax system here, I fear for the future of the unspoilt areas of this beautiful country. My advice, visit as soon as you can before the high-rise hotels fully take hold.


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