DINING AT THE SEAT OF THE ELITE

 

It is not every day that completely out of the blue one receives an invitation to dine with the provost (Lord William Waldegrave) in the hallowed halls of Eton College. 

To many of us Eton College is synonymous with wealth and privilege; those holding important positions in whatever field they have chosen to practice, and often with titles attached to their names. Whilst, if one reads the British press (which I do not, having given it up as a bad job many years ago), this may reflect the man on the street’s views, it is far from the truth.  

Eton College was originally founded by King Henry VI as a charity school to provide free education to 70 poor boys who would then go on to King's College, Cambridge, founded by the same King in 1441. It is well worth reading up on Eton’s history to put things into context. 

A diverse group, all with a common bond, I, along with 60 others, had been invited to Eton because we had all been the fortunate recipients of bursaries which were offered as a result of the Fleming Report of 1944. The Report recommended reciprocal arrangements between Local Authorities and Public Schools – a proposal that led to what became known as the “Middlesex Scheme” to provide opportunities for public school education to boys and girls irrespective of the income of their parents. Collectively, the scheme beneficiaries were all known as ‘The Fleming Boys and Girls’. 

This was the first ever get-together of us all, which had been organised by Old Etonian Christopher Horne, who has been carrying out research for a book on the subject.  

The luncheon, hosted, and indeed paid for, by Eton College, included those who, in addition to Eton, had been educated at Mill Hill, Rugby, Winchester and, in my case, Westonbirt School. Joined by four other former Westonbirt girls, I was thoroughly delighted at being outnumbered 10 to 1 by our male counterparts. Few of those in attendance knew each other, and most had never met before, which made for enthusiastic, getting-to-know-you type conversation, and I soon discovered that, now fast approaching my 70s, I was almost the youngest person present.  

On being introduced to my fellow diners, a lesser person might well have taken exception to being introduced as ‘The most notorious woman in England’, but not yours truly. I was assured that our organiser had done his homework, causing him to come to such a conclusion.  

Smart casual was the dress code for the day, and after pre-lunch drinks (splendid English bubbly from Coates & Seely), accompanied by just cheese straws and crisps, nothing fancy, we settled down to lunch in Election Hall.  

Thankfully, there was no table plan, and as I plonked myself down into a vacant seat, as the lone female, I was able to benefit from the company of the male diners at our table for eight, which included a bookmaker, a retired solicitor, and a financier who had taken up acting as a second career.  

Whilst our surroundings, with its stained-glass windows, was impressive, I was struck by the lack of grandeur. In fact, I would suggest that Eton College is so comfortable in its own skin it has no need to impress.  

Wines to accompany our two-course lunch included a modest Sancerre, and an Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, both very acceptable examples of their style and age. The food, whilst not quite award winning, was competently prepared and presented. For once, unusually for me, I could find no fault with it, or with the service we received. The apricot stuffed pork, accompanied by ratatouille-style vegetables, was moist and tender and for pud, we were served a deconstructed cheesecake made with baklava topped with blueberries.  

No long speeches meant that lunch was over and done with in just over an hour and half. Perfect. Given the vast number of functions I had attended over many years this was by far the most enjoyable by a long shot. No-one had a hidden agenda, or was there to impress, influence, network, jockey for position or play at being top dog. It was a really jolly, lively gathering, where everyone was keen to engage and discover more about their fellow diners. Also of note, and a rare thing in this day and age, not one of the guests had expressed any food preferences when asked; no vegetarians, no allergies, no dislikes. We all came to the same conclusion; we were all of an age when different dietary requirements were not given any consideration.  

Asked what public boarding school had done for me, I replied ‘Taught me to eat what is put in front of me and push it around the plate if necessary.’ To this day I still have a hatred of leeks (except in soup), and all forms of outdoor exercise, but can comfortably converse and mix with people from all social classes. However, life was not all a bed of roses. I was very homesick and kept running away, lasting a total of five terms before going onto Grammar School. Despite this, I still feel that in terms of my personal development I could not have wished for a better start in life and very much doubt that I would have otherwise achieved what I have without this opportunity. 

I have become increasingly tired of the tirade against those who are wealthy or appear to be privileged in some way. In many cases they have worked hard to get where they are, and made sacrifices along the way.  

Much has also been said during recent party-political conferences about our politicians’ back stories, and whether or not they are relevant. There is absolutely no doubt in my mind that it is our life experiences, both good and bad, that shape us, and make us what we are. Before we jump in with our prejudices and opinions, quick to judge and condemn others, we would do well to consider this. 

Who are we to deny those who wish to improve the life chances for their offspring the opportunity to do so? 

Coates & Seely NV sparkling wine, Hampshire, England, 12%abv. - £34.95  

40% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier 

Here they use their own version of the traditional méthode champenoise – the Méthode Britannique for their sparkling wine production. They no longer use isinglass, making the wines suitable for vegans.  

Everything you would expect from a sparkling wine made from traditional Champagne grape varieties. Apple and lemon-curd aromas with honey-dew melon undertones and a typical yeasty fragrance. Full-bodied with plenty of fruit and a creamy finish.  

Andre Dezat Sancerre, Loire, France 2020 13%abv. - £19  

Made from Sauvignon Blanc, this is a highly thought of Sancerre, dry, yet fruity with a delicate bouquet and great length. Their vineyards have three different types of soil which give added complexity. 

Domaine Rollin Pere et Fils Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France, 2018, 13.5%abv. - £15 

Just two hectares from various parcels of 30-to-45-year-old Pinot Noir in Pernand and Echevronne go to produce this lovely wine. Sleek and elegant, with a fresh minerality. No new oak is used, and the wine is bottled after a relatively brief élévage of ten months in order to preserve its fruit.