WINE TO GO WITH ASPARAGUS

I have always subscribed to the view that we should, where possible, eat foods that are in season, if for no other reason than that they are less expensive and have so much more flavour. At this bountiful time of year, with the asparagus season now in full swing, despite my innate dislike of ‘green foods’, I find that I cannot get enough.

The problem arises when it comes to selecting a suitable wine to go with my green bundle of joy. As delightful as asparagus is on its own, it can clash with wine. What of course comes into play is how the asparagus is cooked and served, and what other ingredients are served alongside these tender spears.

Asparagus, which is a member of the lily family, contains the sulphurous amino acid methionine. This compound, along with asparagus’s intense grassy flavour, can make wine taste dank and vegetal, or harsh and metallic.

In general, the perceived wisdom is that we should aim to stay well clear of tannic reds or big, bold, oaky whites, unless your asparagus is served with a rich, velvety, buttery sauce. Wines with any hint of sweetness are also not a particularly good march.

It would be hard to go wrong with unoaked, citrusy, white wines with herbal notes, such as a Sancerre or Pouilly Fumé from the Loire region of France. These wines, made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape variety, can in themselves have a marked ‘asparagus’ character in their flavour.

Here then are some suggestions to take the angst out of choosing something special to go with your asparagus, so that you can make the most of this short season, before we revert to the tasteless, expensive imports we see on our supermarket shelves for the rest of the year.

Vinaigrette – this needs a wine that can cope with the sharpness of the vinaigrette. Try an earthy, dry, unoaked Italian white such as Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico, 2015, 13%abv., from the Marche region of Italy. This classic Italian dry white is well-balanced with an inviting floral aroma, complemented by plenty of ripe fruit flavours. At £8.50 it is unlikely to break the bank.

Melted butter or mayonnaise – In this case, as the asparagus is offset by the richness of the accompanying sauce, an uncomplicated, unoaked, Chardonnay, such as the Christophe Camu Chablis, 2014, 12%abv., will do the job nicely, for £15.95. It is light and refreshing, with a touch of minerality to balance the fruit flavours. This wine will continue to develop for a year or two yet.

Hollandaise or poached eggs - Here the accompanying ingredients tend to dominate and I would go for a white Rioja, such as Rioja Blanco Muga, 2016, 13%abv., £10.99. Made from Malvasia and Viura grapes, planted at the Western end of Rioja Alta, the wine is barrel fermented in new oak, giving complex and toasted aromas with fresh, zesty lime, and fresh acidity.

Goat’s cheese – a classic match for the aforementioned Sauvignon Blancs from the Loire, or tryChapel Down Bacchus, Tenterden, Kent, England, 2016, £12.99, 12%abv. Fresh, crisp and grassy, with an excellent citrus fruit character.

Grilled Salmon – A match made in heaven when served with asparagus. The finesse and balance achieved by this elegant 2015, Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc Blend from Margaret River, Australia, 12.5%abv., £11, is a hallmark of its quality and the distinct character of this wine making area. A delicious, zingy, sophisticated wine that will be sure to please.

Chargrilled – If you are a fan of red wines with everything, chargrilling your asparagus can help you out here. Serve it with a drizzle of olive oil and slivers of parmesan, and you can happily get away with something along the lines of a Cabernet Franc based red from the Loire, lightly chilled.Domaine de l’Oubliée, Merci la Vie, Bourgueil, Loire, France, 2014, 12.5%abv., £14.25 is a rising star in the region. This youthful wine is easy drinking with balanced acidity, and soft rounded fruit on the palate.

Anyone visiting the USA may like to take a detour and visit Fox Barn Market & Winery in Shelby, Michigan, where they have wine made from asparagus. Truly!