Sunday 16 March 2014

Pressing Matters - Somerset Cider Houses Rule


Whenever I think of Somerset, cider is what most readily comes to mind, so with Apple Day, officially 21st October this year, being celebrated across the county, it would be remiss of me not to consider the merits of our local ciders. I say this despite my own reluctance to drink it on more than the odd occasion; stemming from what I still recall as ‘the cider incident’, one lunchtime many years ago, at the tender age of 11, in a very posh hotel.

As autumn heralds cooler temperatures, cider goes well with hearty casseroles and stews, the one pot meals that also save on the washing up, and where the cider itself makes a good addition, as well as an accompaniment, particularly to chicken or pork dishes.
It's been a big learning curve, and I’ve taken instruction from renowned cider maker, Julian Temperley, at Burrow Hill, along with expert Alan Stone, along with other respondents to my persistent enquiries.

The number of local ciders is vast, so choices this month expose readers to some more interesting and individual offerings. Not all local cider makers bottle and sell their products through retail outlets, so look out for signs along the highways and byways to alert you to a real taste of Somerset. Many producers offer tours, usually by appointment only. The Somerset Cider Map, free to download, gives details of most cider makers in the county.

It is arguable that the best bottled conditioned ciders are made from a selected blend of different cider apples, in much the same way that wine is made, but at Burrow Hill they make two exceptional bottle fermented sparkling ciders from single varieties, by the ‘Champagne Method’, Kingston Black or Stoke Red, not cheap at £8.50 (8%abv); you get what you pay for. They also sell still cider straight from the barrel.

Also look out for ciders made by the old English process of 'keeving', as they do at Pilton, Nr. Shepton Mallet, which results in the cider retaining more of its natural fruit character.

Perry's, in the village of Dowlish Wake, where they still use the traditional rack and cloth method of cider making, have on offer a range of ciders, stored in wooden barrels, which scooped a handful of gold stars at this year's Great Taste Awards.

Honey Pot Farm at South Petherton has available Sweet Copin as a single variety, along with bottle conditioned cider, sold direct from the farm.

Chant Cider (Naish's) at Midsomer Norton pride themselves on producing cider as the Romans did, reputedly the only makers now using this chemical free, traditional, seasonal method. Hardly surprising given the family business spans almost 200 years, but bring your own containers.

Ashill Cider, just off the A358 between Taunton and Ilminster, claims it produces 'cider with a kick', and lastly, a more commercial product, Katy, produced by Thatcher's, which I buy copious amounts of, because I have a cider drinking god-daughter called..... Katy.

As a point of interest, Julian was the first person in the UK to gain a license to distill cider to make cider brandy. Matured for up to 10 years in small oak barrels, for hardened imbibers such as myself, it’s always a favourite after dinner option .... I’ve got my own apple press, so maybe it’s time I learnt how to use it!

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