Linda Piggott-Vijeh discovers the best bubbly, perfect for any
celebratory occasion
When in the mood for celebration, my desire for bubbly
tomark the occasion, in particular Champagne, is well recorded. Of course, not
everyone’s pocket can run to such luxury. Do be aware though that despite the
many supermarket offers that fill the shelves around this time of year, the
cheaper offerings make for poor drinking. If real Champagne is your tipple, you
should reckon on around £30 a bottle to be sure of something memorable.
If your budget means that you can only afford to splash out
at around £10 a bottle, Cava, the Spanish sparkling wine from Catalonia, is a
better bet.
I have long since tired of the ubiquitous Prosecco. The
market is so flooded that much of it is of poor quality.
On a more positive note, this festive season, during a
memorable trip to the opera at La Scala in Milan, I discovered a credible
bubbly alternative in the wines of Franciacorta, which enjoys DOCG
(Denominazione di OrigineControllata e Garantita) status. DOCG is the highest
classification for Italian wines. It denotes controlled production methods and
guaranteed wine quality.
Situated in the hills of the Brescia province, lying to the
south of Lago d’Iseo, the name Franciacorta is derived from an ancient term,
“franca curte,” that was applied to a monastic property in the district, which,
as an ecclesiastical possession, was free or “franco” of taxes.
The recent international success of these sparkling wines
owes much to the méthode champenoise technique of making them. The introduction
of this step, with a secondary fermentation carried out in the bottle, has
enabled the area to improve the quality of wines already benefiting from
outstanding soil characteristics and a highly favourable microclimate.
During my visit I took every opportunity to try as many as I
could. One unforgettable evening was spent in a tiny bistro where, invited to a
tasting, I sampled the wines of vineyard 1701.
The owners of the vineyard, brother and sister Federico and
Silvia Stefini, were generous in plying us with samples of several of the six
wines they produce, totalling around 60,000 bottles per year, produced from
grapes grown on their 10-acre site. The name 1701 stems from the fact that this
was the first documented date of winemaking here. The vineyard was revived in
2009 by two enthusiastic brothers who believe in the principles and methods of
organic and biodynamic viticulture. Their efforts were rewarded when in July
2016, 1701 obtained its official biodynamic/organic certification and the
vineyard has gained numerous international awards. Made from two of the
traditional Champagne grape varieties, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the wines are
available in the UK through importers Les Caves de Pyrenes, and range in price
from £15 to around £40.
Look out for their Satèn, made in a style typical of the
region. Also worth trying is Sullerba, an old vinification method where the
lees remain in the bottle, unfiltered and not disgorged. Made from 100%
chardonnay, it is fermented in steel tanks and terracotta amphorae, then
transferred into a bottle, using the must of the same vine for second
fermentation, and aged for a minimum of 18 months. Their latest offering is
Surnàt, which is vinified entirely in amphora.
Other Franciacorta wines to look out for are: Berlucchi
Cellarius(2011, £19), La Rotonda Satèn (2013, £20), La Rotonda Dizeta (2009,
12.5%, £25), Ca’ del Bosco Millenium (2006, 12.5%, £36), Montedelma Rosé (NV,
£22) and Cavalleri, Blanc de Blancs (NV, 12.5% £30).
The wines are not inexpensive, but will make an interesting
alternative for quality bubbles.
Original Article :
Somerset Living Magazine - January 2018. Pg.48| FOOD & DRINK
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