WHAT WE EAT, AND WHAT IT SAYS ABOUT US

Recently I caught the tail end of a radio programme about our eating habits. This got me thinking about how that where we choose to shop, what we choose to eat, when we eat, and where we eat, says so much about our social class.

I cannot ever remember not being interested in food; whether reading about it, preparing it, or eating it; evidenced by my constant battle with my waistline.

I also adore travelling, and having visited or lived in over 50 countries, I always make a beeline for interesting food markets and places to eat.

When it comes to what I put in my mouth, I am lucky in that apart from a few dislikes, the smell of truffles being one, I am not a fussy eater; a spell at boarding school knocked that out of me. Yes, I do like high-end, top notch, award winning, meals, but at the other end of the scale I find that I am just as happy sampling local street food down a sleazy back alley, and I admit to a secret liking for Fray Bentos steak and kidney pie and Heinz tomato soup.

Although I naturally gravitate towards other well-travelled foodies and come from a firmly working-class background, I have, over the years, gained friends from all walks of life. I also like to entertain, a lot, believing that there is nothing like breaking bread together to bring communities together. I find it really sad that in many family households eating together is now very much the exception rather than the norm.

What we call those meals that we do choose to eat says much about us. I always refer to my midday meal as lunch and my evening meal as dinner, with supper reserved for those post-theatre or concert get togethers. On occasion I may partake of a little afternoon tea at around 5pm. I have a constant tussle with my neighbour, who I socialise with regularly, over whether or not she is coming to have ‘supper’, a casual light meal shared by the two of us, or ‘dinner’ which to her means a higher level of formality and an effort to dress up.

Many of those I associate with would naturally call their lunchtime meal dinner, and their evening meal tea. This can cause the odd problem when issuing invitations and I have to take care that my guests know what it is they have been invited for.

The same goes for how and where we shop. My personal frustration comes to the fore when I am unable to find just one place to buy all of the things I need, hence I patronise the whole gamut of options, but never, ever, order online. I like to eyeball what I am buying, choose the latest sell-by date, and take advantage of any special offers. If I am cooking a ‘special’ meal it might be that I need produce to be a certain size. I well remember hand picking new potatoes, strawberries and mushrooms in the local markets when working in New York, and selecting just the right cut of meat or fish. I confess to being an unashamed peeker into other people’s shopping trolleys, on the few occasions I am forced to patronise supermarkets, rather than small independent stores or local producers.

Although I like the appearance, if not the prices, of the food offered by M&S and Waitrose, I find that often it does not live up to expectations. It took me some time to become a Lidl convert, and I love the new wonky vegetables offered by Morrison’s. Letting nature do its work without intervention.

Most people, when on a tight budget, will fill their trolleys up with quick fix, cheap and cheerful options, usually carbohydrates in some form; pasta, pizza, crisps, chips, anything that is quick to prepare and will fill hungry and not very adventurous stomachs.

Likewise, when it comes to eating out, the chain pubs and fast food outlets are always eager to lure people in with their tempting 2-for-1 offers and other deals. Frequented by those with an eye to a bargain, little thought is given to the fact that the food on their plates, piled high, is often of little nutritional value and, despite the bargain prices, not good value for money.

Those with money to spare in their pockets, by virtue of their higher income levels, have more choice about the food they eat.

With cooking skills largely being a thing of the past for many working-class families, where perhaps both adults (if in fact there are two on the scene), are working their socks off to pay the bills, we are becoming obese, with all of the social problems this brings.

I love free food, and at this time of year I have been busy gathering blackberries from the hedgerows, collecting windfall apples and plums and taking in spare produce from neighbours and friends, and having a ball cooking up a storm.

Eating well does not have to be an expensive pastime, but if we are to do anything to combat the rise in obesity, then we need to address the lack of skills in preparing fresh ingredients.

Whilst I do occasionally indulge in the odd pizza, burger, or fish and chips by the coast, warding off the seagulls, such food does not form part of my daily diet.

But then, I am fortunate, I live by myself and can do as I please, most of the time at least.

HOSPITALITY – A 2-WAY STREET

Having been in the and service and hospitality industry for well over 30 years, I have few illusions left. Yes, at times it can be exciting and glamorous, but for much of the time cooking for a living can be a long, hard slog.

Apart from very brief spells in restaurants I have mostly chosen to work privately. The advantage of this is that unlike your average pub or restaurant chef I do not have to be at the mercy of the fickle public or a slave to producing the same old menu, day in, day out, because ‘that is what people want’.

Cooking for private individuals can be a double-edged sword. Get great people to work for and it is a dream job. I have also had the pleasure, and the privilege, of cooking for many famous household names, most of whom have been gracious and appreciative of my efforts, and for which I have largely been well rewarded. By contrast, I have worked for some real horrors, thankfully for only short periods. Sadly, it is the horrors that stick in one’s mind.

I lasted just 12 weeks with one very wealthy international industrialist, who took me out to work in Palm Springs illegally, sent a memo out to all staff to say that I was never to be referred to by my first name, just called ‘cook’. His very unhappy wife, no doubt due to his many peccadillos, would ‘interview’ me every morning from her bedside about the day’s menus. 

The most expensive meal I ever had to cook was an entire side of veal, costing over £300 (this was 30 years ago!) for a famous film star who was coming to dinner. Each evening I was required to stand to attention in front of the dinner table as they bid me ‘Goodnight cook’. Needless to say, they did not take my resignation very kindly, sending round the ‘heavies’ to confiscate my passport, which I refused to allow them to take possession of. What fun and games.

Let’s face, it when you choose to go into the service and hospitality business, to all intents and purposes you basically become a domestic servant. This is not necessarily a bad thing. I believe that all of us who work for others in some capacity need to be constantly aware of those that pay our wages (which is not always the same as those in charge) and make a real effort to ensure that we not only meet their expectations but exceed them wherever we can. Going the extra mile, as trite as it may sound. For me there is nothing more satisfying than someone enjoying a meal I have prepared.

There is often a failure by those in the service industry to appreciate that ‘service’ is what you actually do for something, whilst ‘hospitality’ is how you perform the task.

Whilst in tough financial times it may not always be possible to continue to provide the level of service one would wish, the attitude with which one carries out the task costs nothing. This I something I constantly work on with the hotels and restaurants I work with. If staff are happy in their jobs, well trained and respected, with the appropriate level of authority to make decisions, then everyone benefits. There is nothing more demoralising than constantly having to deal with complaints. Apart from anything else, the time and energy spent on doing so could be much better used in providing the right level of service to start with.

Those on the receiving end of service also have a part to play in how they choose to behave; by being on time for meals and treating those serving them with respect. I am certainly not above complaining but find that in getting my own way as a customer I get much better results, a better table, a last-minute reservation or a special treat, by engaging with those waiting on me.

This brings me nicely to my reason for raising this issue. I spent last week down in Helford cooking for a party of 14, 7 adults and 7 children. I had not met them before, but they turned to be the guests from heaven, undemanding, not one fussy eater among them, and on time for meals. As a result, I wanted to go out of my way to please them, and certainly did not mind getting up at 6am to get their breakfast on the day of departure; purely because they had not expected me to.

Hospitality really is a 2-way street, and I find that giving your all to the task in hand reaps rewards both in terms of pleasing your masters, pride in a job well done, and often financially as well.

I word of caution though, it never, ever, pays to upset the person who is preparing your food. Those are tales for another time!

Keeping Your Spirits Up - with Polish Vodka

Auschwitz might not be everyone’s idea of a top destination for a birthday weekend away but it had been at the top of my list for some time. Whilst the experience was not at all as I expected, I am glad that I went.

That aside, Krakow is the perfect short break destination. Easy to get to, inexpensive, friendly, and easy to get around with lots to see and do, including the opportunity to have a go at making pierogies, my favourite Polish dumplings, and to sample some vodka. Lots of it.

This was my first visit to Poland, and quite honestly, until then I could count the number of times I have drunk vodka on one hand. Let there be no doubt as to my commitment to the task in hand. In the space of 4 days I ploughed my way relentlessly through 53 vodkas. The sacrifices I make, all in the cause of research. Trust me, all vodkas are not equal, and many bear little resemblance to the colourless liquid most often consumed - a 2017 survey shows that in the UK Smirnoff romps home as the favourite brand, with a whopping 62% of market share. Vodka can be made pretty much from anything that can ferment, which is then distilled to increase the alcohol content.

Keen to share my new-found enthusiasm, I managed to bring home what I felt were some of the more interesting ones for a charity tasting. Here’s what we thought.

Soplica Orzech Laskowy	Hazelnut – Soplica has been producing vodkas in Poland since 1891. This flavoured vodka, using hazelnuts gathered from nearby forests, uses the same blend of grain vodka, rye and wheat as the original. Verdict: Liquid Nutella……	30%abv. £15.99 (50cl.)
Krzeska Ziolowa	Herbs - a highly aromatic combination of pure vodka and more than 20 species of herbs. It comes in a beautiful camphor-shaped bottle, with a sunken bunch of sage, thyme and rosemary. Full of character, yet subtle, it is pale amber and redolent of tobacco, plums, vanilla, and the smell of fresh cut meadow herbs. Verdict: Smooth, elegant after dinner drink	40%abv. £52.74
Dwor Sierakow Peiprzem Wodka Smakowa	Pepper – pale translucent green in colour, the aroma of freshly ground pepper, mint, thyme, marjoram, juniper, and bay leaf is complex and intense. On the palate, it is strong, intensely peppery, with a slightly sweet, very spicy finish. This received a bronze medal at the 2015 International Wine and Spirit Competition in London.  Verdict: Aromatic, smooth, peppery	40%abv. £15
Saska Debowa	Czysta (Clear) - a delicate translucent vodka using premium grains. Its gentle flavour comes from using only natural ingredients and crystal-clear water. It owes its unique character to the extract of American oak chip and the slow process of maceration, which emphasises this characteristic oaky note. Verdict: Pure, but lacks aroma	40%abv. £5 (50cl.)
Golden Rose  Waldemar Durakiewicz	Rose - A clear golden amber composition of carefully selected flowers and fruits from the Podlasie region with an extraordinary rose taste and aroma. The base is Chopin vodka and all stages of production are carried out by hand. The rosehip flower, considered a symbol of love and passion, highlights the feminine character of this vodka. Verdict: The rose dominates, with a slight sweetness	38%abv. £52
Zubrowka Bison Grass Smakowa	Bison Grass - Białowieża, the last primeval forest in Europe, lies in a remote corner of Poland, in the North Podlasie Lowland; home to the continent's only herd of bison and the distinctly aromatic bison grass, which resists cultivation and is still carefully harvested by hand. The infusion adds smoothness and freshness to the original spirit. Verdict: Pleasant herbal notes	37.5%abv. £20
Sliwowica Lelowska	Moonshine – this has been struggling to achieve legal status for 20 years. Now, one local fruit producer has made it through the legislative minefield. Śliwowica, the 70+% plum vodka made in the vicinity of Łącko, near Nowy Sącz, is a traditional Polish Highlander’s tipple perfected by a Jew who was killed by Nazis and had his distillery closed by Soviets. It is officially illegal but known and praised across the country and beyond. According to reliable sources, śliwowica is the fourth strongest alcoholic drink in the world. This variety, is the one that wins international awards, despite being technically illegal. Traditionally, it has been distilled in small quantities by hundreds of ‘home producers.’ False śliwowica, made from cheap spirit with added flavouring, is sold in tourist hot spots. National authorities and local producers disagree about its future. If the government agreed to legal production, it would have to be at a single distillery in the region, a big no-no for local farmers as each one has their own secret recipe and they want the government to approve home-made production. Verdict: Paint stripper…..it hurts – powerful, not for the feint-hearted	72%abv. £30
Chopin Potato Vodka	Potato – this is secret of a good Vesper Martini - James Bond's own concoction. Four times distilled from Polish potatoes, it has an alluring nose with subtle notes of vanilla and green apple. It is creamy and well-rounded, with a reassuring earthiness and a long, clean finish. Verdict: Oily on the palate	40%abv. £36.47(50cl.)
Zubrowka Czarna Wodka	Black - the only Polish vodka to undergo a unique filtration process using charcoal from Bialowieża oaks. The water is drawn from the purest springs in the Bialowieża Forest and top-quality wheat is used for producing the neutral spirit that comes exclusively from Polish farms. The nose gives little away. Verdict: A pure, smooth, super premium vodka	40%abv. £35 (50cl.)

Dumplings are the perfect thing to soak up alcohol, and I can thoroughly recommend the Pierogi making activity I went on with Urban Adventures. Wandering around the market buying the ingredients, by ourselves, without being able to speak a word of Polish, was an adventure in itself, and our guide and tutor Sabina Krauze was truly amazing. A real opportunity to experience true Polish hospitality and culture first hand.sabina.krauze@gmail.com

SOMERSET CIDER

If the piles of apples littering our roadsides this year is any indication, then it has been a bumper crop all round.

I have been having a great time scrumping, a habit left over from my childhood I guess, and cooking my socks off. Apples go so well with so many other foodstuffs.

As autumn heralds cooler temperatures, cider goes well with hearty casseroles and stews. I have in mind the one pot meals that also save on the washing up, and where the cider makes a good addition, as well as an accompaniment, particularly to chicken or pork dishes.

Following what I still refer to as the ‘cider incident’ in a very posh Cotswold restaurant, at the age of 11, I was almost put off cider for life. Hence, whilst for many years I had my own apple press, it had scant use until I donated it on permanent loan to Chard Museum, where it gets put into good service each year.

Whenever I think of Somerset, cider is often what most readily comes to mind. Apple Day, officially October 21 this year, so I feel that it would be remiss of me not to consider the merits of our local ciders.

Time for a little instruction from renowned cider maker, Julian Temperley, at Burrow Hill, along other expert respondents to my persistent enquiries. The number of local ciders is vast, so my choices are aimed at exposing readers to some of the interesting and individual offerings. Not all local cider makers bottle and sell their products through retail outlets, so look out for signs along the highways and byways to alert you to a real taste of Somerset. Many producers offer tours, usually by appointment only. The Somerset Cider Map, free to download, gives details of most cider makers in the county. It is arguable that the best bottled conditioned ciders are made from a selected blend of different cider apples, in much the same way that wine is made.

At Burrow Hill they make two exceptional bottle fermented sparkling ciders from single varieties, by the ‘Champagne Method’, Kingston Black or Stoke Red, not cheap, you get what you pay for. They also sell still cider straight from the barrel. Also look out for ciders made by the old English process of ‘keeving’, as they do at Pilton, Nr. Shepton Mallet, which results in the cider retaining more of its natural fruit character.

Perry’s, in the village of Dowlish Wake, still use the traditional rack and cloth method of cider making. They have on offer a range of ciders, stored in wooden barrels, which scoops a handful of awards each year. I particularly like some of their single variety or single orchard offerings.

Honey Pot Farm at South Petherton has available Sweet Copin as a single variety, along with bottle conditioned cider, sold direct from the farm.

Chant Cider (Naish’s) at Midsomer Norton pride themselves on producing cider as the Romans did. They are reputedly the only makers now using this chemical free, traditional, seasonal method. Hardly surprising given the family business spans almost 200 years, but bring your own containers.

A more commercial product, produced by Thatcher’s, is called “Katy”. I buy copious amounts of this because I have a cider drinking god-daughter called ....Katy.

I was fortunate enough when invited out to dinner this week to have had the opportunity to refresh my taste-buds with some Somerset Cider Apple Brandy. The maker, Julian Temperley, was the first person in the UK to gain a license to distill cider to make cider brandy. Matured for up to ten years in small oak barrels, for hardened imbibers such as myself, it’s always a favourite after-dinner option. 

WOMEN WHO DRINK

With the position of women in society remaining high on the political agenda, I have been considering the key part that women, and what they drink, have played both as authors, and as significant fictional characters, in some of our most famous works of literature.

This is in part because 2018 is a momentous year. Not only does it mark the 100th anniversary of WW1, it is has also been 100 years since women gained the vote in Great Britain.

In 1918, as a result of the Representation of the People Act, passed on 6th February, women over the age of 30 gained the vote, provided they, or their husband, met a property qualification.

One of the key reasons for the necessity of an Act to reform the electoral system was that during WW1 millions of returning soldiers were not entitled to the vote because of property and residential qualifications. The Act also instituted the present system of holding general elections on one day, and brought in the annual electoral register. The changes brought about by the Act saw the size of the electorate triple from 7.7 million to 21.4 million; women accounted for about 43% of the electorate.

However, we still did not have equality, men could vote from the age of 21. The 30-year-old age requirement for women was to ensure that women did not become the majority of the electorate, due to the loss of men during the war.

Later in 1918 the Parliament (Qualification of Women) Act was passed on 21 November, allowing women to stand for Parliament, and on 14thDecember 8.5 million women were eligible to vote in a general election for the first time.

I Bring An Unaccustomed Wine, Emily Dickinson
Dickinson often uses alcoholic descriptions, in her poems, not to praise and celebrate drinking, but to convey hidden messages to her readers; as in this poem, which begins

‘I bring an unaccustomed wine

To lips long parching, next to mine,

And summon them to drink.’

Murder on the Orient Express, Agatha Christie
This tale of murder, intrigue and deception is awash with food and drink references throughout. Well, what else is there to do on a long train journey?

In it, Mrs Hubbard sips an alcoholic beverage, as the train’s doctor insists she drink brandy after her fainting fit in the dining-car. It certainly seems to do the trick…

“A few minutes later she was sitting up, sipping cognac from a glass proffered by the attendant, and talking once more.”

The Great Gatsby, F Scott Fitzgerald
At a time when Prohibition was in full swing, this novel, is absolutely drenched in alcohol. Gatsby’s party guests are spoilt for choice. It is during a row in a hotel room between Daisy, Tom and Gatsby that the mint julep, makes its appearance. Daisy tells her husband, “I’ll make you a mint julep – then you’ll seem less stupid to yourself”.

The notion originated with Daisy’s suggestion that they hire five bathrooms and take cold baths…. “a place to have a mint julep.”

I well recall my first mint julep, at The Kentucky Derby in the 1990s. It is simply, bourbon, mint muddled with sugar, and water. Serve very cold.

Sense and Sensibility, Jane Austen
The importance of shared meals is evident throughout works by Austen, as we observe countless banquets, dinners, and family breakfasts at which haunches of roast venison, puddings, sweetmeats, and other delicious morsels are enjoyed.

Warm-hearted Mrs Jennings presses upon broken hearted Marianne Dashwood sweet Muscat wine from Constantia; a drink that is mentioned frequently throughout Austen’s work and sure the revive flagging spirits.

The launch of Vin de Constance by the Jooste family in 1986 marked the revival of this legendary 18th-century dessert wine. Made from late-picked Muscat, its intense sweetness, almost toffee-like, is offset by a citric freshness.

Klein Constantia, Vin de Constance, Constantia, 2013 13.5%abv. Is available at a whopping £52 for 50cl.

Breakfast at Tiffany’s, Truman Capote
Class in a glass, Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly glides through New York society, allowing wealthy men to escort her to clubs and restaurants, spoiling her with money and expensive gifts. She soon introduces her neighbour to the pleasure of early morning bubbly.

“I don't think I've ever drunk champagne before breakfast before,” he tells her. “With breakfast on several occasions, but never before-before.” A woman after my own heart.

Nothing but the best will do, so it has to be Louis Roederer Cristal 2009, 12%abv. This iconic blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is available for around £160 a bottle. A mere snip.



What we eat and drink, and where and with whom we chose to do so, can leave an indelible mark on our memories.

With Mother’s Day coming up in March, why not think of something special to do, so that in years to come mum will sit back and say ‘I remember where I was when I first drank…..’

Better still, seek out a wine made by one of the up and coming female winemakers. Girl power in a glass. Go on, give her something unique to look back on.

FASHIONABLE WINES

Keen followers of fashion will know that certainly, when it comes to being on-trend, you cannot get much better than the Queen’s attendance at London Fashion Week earlier this year, in the front row next to Anna Wintour no less.

Personally, I have never been a follower of fashion, much preferring to buck the trend, whether it be for clothes, cars, holiday destinations, food or …. wine.

As with all things that become fashionable, for a while, it all comes back round again, full circle; that’s why we expand our wardrobes to find space for those special items that soon become much sought after ‘vintage’ items.

What we drink, as with much else in life, does follow trends. I well recall the demand for claret and chianti in the 1970s, then the rise of New World wines, and right back to Europe, all in the search for lesser known grape varieties and new styles.

In the last few decades I have been thrilled to see the increase in the quality, and popularity of English wines; at a price.

In the wake of the Austrian 1985 ‘anti-freeze’ scandal, who would have thought a revival of their indigenous red wines would take place. Lighter bodied, with more fruit focus, they are worth seeking out; the perfect antidote to the big, blousy, full bodied reds that have been in demand.

As wine making techniques become more advanced, winemakers are able to push the boundaries of what is possible, once they manage to steer the average punter away from the bog-standard pinot grigio and merlot on offer, where price, not quality, is king.

When it comes to wine trends, wine producers and importers naturally focus on the qualities of a wine, but this is only one factor; ultimately it is a commercial decision.

One hot trend for 2018 is the wine keg. Thanks to David Attenborough, we are becoming more eco-friendly and draught wine is gaining popularity. Wine kept in barrels, available ‘on tap’, is all set to challenge an industry where the traditional cork retains snob value. The younger generation want good value for money wine, whilst seeking a greener, environmentally friendly approach to packaging. Wine stored in kegs is not exposed to light and air, enabling better quality wines to be offered at reasonable prices.

I was appalled to discover recently that the average wine drinker throws two glasses of wine down the sink each week. The latest innovation to reverse this trend is Eto, a patented decanter with an airtight seal, enabling wine to keep for days.

When it comes to sherry, most of us resort to a dusty bottle of Bristol Cream at Christmas. Now, a newfound appreciation for sherry is emerging, especially for aged Oloroso and Palo Cortado. Sales of older, rarer styles have been soaring.

In France, winemakers this year continue to push beyond the traditional boundaries of Bordeaux and Burgundy, along with more wines from Italy, including Brunello, as well as Spain and North America.

That said, after experiencing a few difficult years, Bordeaux is an area to watch. The 2012 and 2014 vintages offer great value for money. In Burgundy, a supply shortage continues to feed demand, and in Beaujolais quality sales of wines from Beaujolais Crus have been increasing yearly.

The recently-released 2015 from Tuscany is reportedly impressive, and those in the know predict that the slopes of Etna in Sicily will emerge as a quality wine producing region this year. Look out for white wines made from Carricante and reds from Nerello Mascalese & Nerello Cappuccio.

Certainly, when it comes to wine styles, there will be a shift away from over-extracted, full-bodied reds toward lighter, brighter styles. From Italy, these wines include Langhe Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and Barbera, all displaying higher acidity and more focused red fruit characters.

In the Loire, whilst we are familiar with well-known whites such as Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé, 2018 could be the year that we see the spotlight on red wines.

A sector undergoing substantial change is sparkling wine. In the UK we used to drink Champagne only before a meal, or when celebrating. Nowadays, ordering something with bubbles is de rigeur on a night out. The palate friendly simplicity of Prosecco, at a fraction of the price of Champagne, largely accounts for its popularity and consumers are boosting revenue by ‘trading up’ up from less expensive still wines.

When it comes to Champagne, trend setters are seeking out innovative artisan growers, and with Brexit on the horizon, the increasing popularity of English wines will continue. The quality of our sparkling wines is well established, gaining international awards.

The key to success in purchasing wines to lay down is to always buy the best vintages from the best producers you can afford. Never compromise on provenance.

Finally, when it comes to fashion, the Beckhams continue to remain ‘on trend’, but in order to follow in their footsteps bottomless pockets are required.

Screaming Eagle is the must have Californian "cult wine", commanding up to £2,750 a bottle. Only 500 cases of their 100% Cabernet Sauvignon are made each year. The wines are full of deep, luscious layers of flavour, resonant of blackcurrant, blackberries and black cherry. The tannins are soft, round and elegant, but firm enough to ensure that Screaming Eagle wines will age for up to 20 years.
The company website is so exclusive that customers have to sign up to a waiting list to even gain the possibility of purchasing a bottle.

GUILT FREE WINE

There seems to be a heightened interest in vegan food, as shown in a recent Somerset Living article. Eating and drinking habits that were once thought to be just a passing phase for those keen to latch onto the latest fad, are now increasingly mainstream. It seems to me that in our increasingly chaotic lives, a move towards a more ethical lifestyle can only be a good thing both for ourselves and the planet.

It is no surprise then that our supermarkets have been quick to recognise this trend and have been keen to jump on the band wagon. 

Vegans to tend to be much more particular than the rest of us when it comes to what they eat and drink, as animal products are included in the production of many different types of food and drink, often in the most unexpected ways.

When it comes to pleasing our guests’ dietary requirements though it can be easy to forget what’s in your wine rack.

Whether or not a wine is ‘vegan friendly’ very much depends upon the producer and the vintage. Whilst wine does not include animal products, it is the fining ingredients that are used in the winemaking process that often contain animal by-products.

With the exception of those of us who are fans of unfiltered wine, we expect our glass of wine to be clear rather than cloudy. Fining is the process used to help eliminate proteins, yeast and other molecules that can cloud the wine.

The most common ingredients used in the fining process include casein, a milk protein, albumin, found in egg whites, gelatine and fish bladders.

Although they are just processing agents, and do not remain in the wine, for strict vegans this is a definite no-no.

Fining is not essential, but it does speed up the winemaking process, enabling the sparklingly clear finished wine to hit our shelves that much quicker.

The good news for vegans is that carbon and clay based fining ingredients are being increasingly used but do be aware that not all wines labelled ‘organic’ or ‘biodynamic’ are necessarily vegan friendly, especially if ‘preparation 500’ is used, which is made from decomposed cow dung buried in a cow horn.

When it comes to complementing a vegan diet, you may be tempted to select a white wine rather than a heavier, “meatier” red, but do bear in mind that red wines can work well with hearty bean and lentil-based stews, mushrooms and aubergines. The Barnivore Vegan Alcohol Directory is a great website to visit with a database of over 38,000 vegan-friendly wines, beers and spirits. Just type in the name of any wine and it will tell whether or not it is vegan.

Look out also for minimal-intervention wines that have lower levels of sulphur, such as Earth’s Essence, South African Shiraz, 14% abv. £6.99 produced for Aldi. Wood from Rooibos and Honeybush plants are used as natural anti-oxidants to preserve the wine, which has a juicy touch of sweetness along with the aroma of blackcurrant forest floor and spice.

Labelling is much clearer nowadays, so just look out for the symbol on the bottle label.

Most supermarkets now offer a wide range of vegan wines. Notably, the Co-op has taken the lead in being open about listing ingredients in its own wines, 55% of which are now suitable for vegans, including their well-priced Irresistible Casablanca Valley Chilean Pinot Noir, 14% abv. £7.99.

Also on offer is Les Pionniers NV Champagne,12%abv., £16.99 made under the Co-op label by Piper-Heidsieck.

At M&S just over half of their range is now suitable for vegans, including this Barossa Valley, Viognier, Australia, 2017, 13%abv, £10

Silky smooth, with a typical aromatic apricot nose, it has enough body to go with the heartiest of vegan dishes.

Waitrose boasts over 700 vegan wines in their range and their San Leo Brut NV Glera Italian Prosecco, 11%abv, £10.99 gets the thumbs up.

Majestic has helpfully grouped its vegan range together, including this ‘meaty’ Vinalba Malbec Bonarda 2016, 14%abv, £9.99 from Argentina.

Sainsbury’s carries over 245 vegan wines, all clearly labelled as such. Their Taste the Difference Beaujolais-Villages Coteaux Gratiniques, 13%abv, £9, from one of oldest houses in Beaujolais at the foot of Mont Brouilly is made from quality grapes from vines grown on the ancient granite soils which gives this wine its elegant and complex finesse.

As you can see, there is lots to choose from but do not be fooled. Almost without exception, our supermarkets, keen to jump on the bandwagon and quick to emphasis their vegan friendly wines, have failed dismally when it comes to suggesting suitable vegan food matches.

Award Winning English Bubbly - Article in The Visitor Mag. September 2018

I was especially pleased earlier this year to be asked to present my paper on ‘Brexit and the impact on the UK wine industry’ at the annual conference of the American Association of Wine Economists, held this year at Cornell University, New York. It gave me the perfect opportunity to highlight our wonderful wines to an international audience. 

I am also fortunate enough to have a very generous friend who, for Christmas each year, gives me a subscription to Decanter (the vinophiles lifestyle magazine). It is too bad that for much of the time I am too busy to plough through its pages of news on the latest vintages, and too poor to buy many of the recommended wines on a regular basis.

However, from time to time there is something in particular that commands my attention; this month, having a passion for promoting our homegrown tipples, I was interested to see which of our UK vineyards featured amongst the World Wine Award winners for 2018.

Many of our winemakers may be the new guys on the block when it comes to the global stage, but it is no surprise that when it comes to taking home the trophies English sparklers come up trumps; our expertise in producing champagne style bubbly has been garnering international recognition for sometime, and rightly so.

Sadly, although we managed to scoop up 3 platinum winners, in addition to 9 golds, our West Country vineyards, with the exception of Cornwall’s Camel Valley, did not feature in the list of top awards; those accolades were reserved for the vineyards situated further East.

This is hardly surprising, as the soil and climate are of course much more wine friendly the further east you go. Think White Cliffs of Dover and you have the chalky soil that is associated with the Champagne region of France.

It is worth noting that, despite fears over Brexit, French Champagne makers are busy buying up vineyards in the South of England; both Taittinger and Pommery have made recent investments. If that doesn’t tell us something about the quality of what can be produced in the hands of a competent winemaker then I don’t know what can.

The price of good English wine is never going to be inexpensive. Taxes and higher labour costs preclude a cheap and cheerful approach.

If you are wanting to push the boat out for a special occasion, then Chapel Down’s award-winning offering comes in at around £100 a bottle, but many of these wines, the majority of which are bubbly, command in the region of £30 a bottle. But, if you think about it, that equates to just £5 for a standard 125ml. glass; cheaper than the standard pub offering and with the bonus of the opportunity to boost our own economy. It strikes me as being a win/win situation all round. Here are the dozen that cut the mustard.

Digby Fine English Brut, Hampshire, NV, 12%abv., £31. Sparkling White - Platinum

Produced with a blend of the classic Champagne grapes, with Pinot Noir (my favourite grape) forming the base, it is complemented by aged Chardonnay and the addition of Pinot Meunier to lighten it up, resulting in a vibrant and understated bubbly that will not break the bank. Great for everyday drinking, and why not?

Henners, Reserve Brut, West Sussex, 2010, 12%abv., £30. Sparkling White - Platinum

This blend of 70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir spends 3 years on its lees giving an elegance with typical citrus and yeast notes on the nose and a delightfully fine, soft mousse, with a long finish.

Camel Valley, Pinot Noir Rosé Brut, Cornwall, 2015, 12.5%abv., £28. Sparkling Rosé - Platinum

I have long been a fan of these wines, which are an expression of true English individuality. Reckoned to be one of the finest rosés on offer anywhere, this offering is a pale salmon pink with lovely floral and strawberry aromas and a clean refreshing palate. A bargain.

Ashling Park Brut, West Sussex, NV, 12%abv., £25. Sparkling White - Gold

This classic blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Meunier is fresh on the nose, reminiscent of lilies, accompanied by ripe stone fruit flavours, which follows through on the palate. Crisp and well defined, this is a well-balanced wine with some persistence, which will age.

Bluebell Vineyard, Hindleap Late Disgorged Blanc de Blancs Brut, Kent, 2008, 12%abv., £42. Sparkling White - Gold

Made from 100% Chardonnay, the six years ageing on its lees makes this wine richer, creamier, and more elegant; well balanced with a long finish. Expect zesty lime and lemon flavours on the palate, some red fruits and a typical brioche character.

Chapel Down Kit’s Coty Coeur de Cuvée Extra Brut, West Sussex, 2010, 11%abv., £100. Sparkling White – Gold (the latest release is the 2013 vintage).

Just 1600 bottles of this wine have been released. Using 100% Chardonnay, it is made from the juice extracted from the first press cycle. Undergoing wild fermentation and maturation on its lees in French oak for seven months before release, it is rich, elegant and well-integrated, with nutty aromas combined with ripe green apple and freshly baked brioche. Its finesse on the palate displays a purity characteristic of these South Downs chalk soils.

Redford Vineyards, Ambriel Blanc de Blancs Brut, West Sussex, 2010, 11%abv., £35. Sparkling – Gold

Made from a blend of the traditional Champagne grape varieties, this wine, disgorged in October 2016, and benefitting from a further year in bottle, is pale gold with a lovely biscuity nose and a fresh palate of white fruits. Rich and racy, but not high in acidity, it has a typical minerality and a long finish.

Exton Park, Rosé Brut, Hampshire, NV, 11.5%abv., £30. Sparkling Rosé – Gold

This pale rose pink sparkler, made from 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Pinot Meunier, has a surprising depth of strawberry fruit on the palate, balanced by white peach and plum flavours. A well-balanced wine.

Hambledon, Classic Cuvée Rosé Brut, Hampshire, 12%abv., £35. Sparkling Rosé – Gold

Ready for drinking now, this blend of Chardonnay (90%) and Pinot Noir (10%) is a beautiful
wild strawberry pink, with a hint of red onion skin on the rim. The nose is introduced by a trace of magnolia blossom, outdone by preserved wild-strawberries and hints of buttery toast. Rich and mouth filling, the strawberry flavours and are balanced by sharp lemon and cranberry. Expect a creamy, clean, crisp wine with a yeasty finish. 

Chapel Down Kit’s Coty Chardonnay, Kent, 2015, 12.5%abv., £30. Still White - Gold

The third vintage of this bubbly, lightly matured in French oak for nine months, this wild-ferment Chardonnay has melon and peach aromas, with subtle toasted notes. The tropical fruit on the palate leads to a clean, fresh finish.

Chapel Down Kit’s Coty Bacchus, Kent, 2016, 13%abv., £25. Still White - Gold

Whole bunch pressed before wild fermentation, this very ripe style of Bacchus has guava, melon and peach aromas, followed through on the palate, by a tropical fruit character, with exceptional length. The background oakiness is a result of it spending 9 months in 3rd and 4th fill barrels.

Denbies, The Brokes Botrytis Ortega, Surrey, 2016, 10%abv., £60. (375ml.) – Sweet White – Gold

Billed as England’s finest dessert wine, just 500 bottles of this have been produced. Made from a single barrel of this specially selected parcel of Ortega, botrytis is the key to its success, and its price. It is a deep golden colour with notes of vanilla dried mango and toasted spices on the nose, and a long sticky palate full of fig and caramelised orange. Rich, yet with a clean zesty lime finish, this succulent wine is intense and very satisfying.

(Article can be found in The Visitor Magazine - September 2018, Page 29) 

http://www.thevisitormagazine.co.uk/home/