FASHIONABLE WINES

Keen followers of fashion will know that certainly, when it comes to being on-trend, you cannot get much better than the Queen’s attendance at London Fashion Week earlier this year, in the front row next to Anna Wintour no less.

Personally, I have never been a follower of fashion, much preferring to buck the trend, whether it be for clothes, cars, holiday destinations, food or …. wine.

As with all things that become fashionable, for a while, it all comes back round again, full circle; that’s why we expand our wardrobes to find space for those special items that soon become much sought after ‘vintage’ items.

What we drink, as with much else in life, does follow trends. I well recall the demand for claret and chianti in the 1970s, then the rise of New World wines, and right back to Europe, all in the search for lesser known grape varieties and new styles.

In the last few decades I have been thrilled to see the increase in the quality, and popularity of English wines; at a price.

In the wake of the Austrian 1985 ‘anti-freeze’ scandal, who would have thought a revival of their indigenous red wines would take place. Lighter bodied, with more fruit focus, they are worth seeking out; the perfect antidote to the big, blousy, full bodied reds that have been in demand.

As wine making techniques become more advanced, winemakers are able to push the boundaries of what is possible, once they manage to steer the average punter away from the bog-standard pinot grigio and merlot on offer, where price, not quality, is king.

When it comes to wine trends, wine producers and importers naturally focus on the qualities of a wine, but this is only one factor; ultimately it is a commercial decision.

One hot trend for 2018 is the wine keg. Thanks to David Attenborough, we are becoming more eco-friendly and draught wine is gaining popularity. Wine kept in barrels, available ‘on tap’, is all set to challenge an industry where the traditional cork retains snob value. The younger generation want good value for money wine, whilst seeking a greener, environmentally friendly approach to packaging. Wine stored in kegs is not exposed to light and air, enabling better quality wines to be offered at reasonable prices.

I was appalled to discover recently that the average wine drinker throws two glasses of wine down the sink each week. The latest innovation to reverse this trend is Eto, a patented decanter with an airtight seal, enabling wine to keep for days.

When it comes to sherry, most of us resort to a dusty bottle of Bristol Cream at Christmas. Now, a newfound appreciation for sherry is emerging, especially for aged Oloroso and Palo Cortado. Sales of older, rarer styles have been soaring.

In France, winemakers this year continue to push beyond the traditional boundaries of Bordeaux and Burgundy, along with more wines from Italy, including Brunello, as well as Spain and North America.

That said, after experiencing a few difficult years, Bordeaux is an area to watch. The 2012 and 2014 vintages offer great value for money. In Burgundy, a supply shortage continues to feed demand, and in Beaujolais quality sales of wines from Beaujolais Crus have been increasing yearly.

The recently-released 2015 from Tuscany is reportedly impressive, and those in the know predict that the slopes of Etna in Sicily will emerge as a quality wine producing region this year. Look out for white wines made from Carricante and reds from Nerello Mascalese & Nerello Cappuccio.

Certainly, when it comes to wine styles, there will be a shift away from over-extracted, full-bodied reds toward lighter, brighter styles. From Italy, these wines include Langhe Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and Barbera, all displaying higher acidity and more focused red fruit characters.

In the Loire, whilst we are familiar with well-known whites such as Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé, 2018 could be the year that we see the spotlight on red wines.

A sector undergoing substantial change is sparkling wine. In the UK we used to drink Champagne only before a meal, or when celebrating. Nowadays, ordering something with bubbles is de rigeur on a night out. The palate friendly simplicity of Prosecco, at a fraction of the price of Champagne, largely accounts for its popularity and consumers are boosting revenue by ‘trading up’ up from less expensive still wines.

When it comes to Champagne, trend setters are seeking out innovative artisan growers, and with Brexit on the horizon, the increasing popularity of English wines will continue. The quality of our sparkling wines is well established, gaining international awards.

The key to success in purchasing wines to lay down is to always buy the best vintages from the best producers you can afford. Never compromise on provenance.

Finally, when it comes to fashion, the Beckhams continue to remain ‘on trend’, but in order to follow in their footsteps bottomless pockets are required.

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