Friday, 2 December 2022
The Story of the Christmas Tablecloth
Sunday, 20 November 2022
POLDEN WINES
Post pandemic, those businesses which have survived, and
many have not, are those that have taken the plunge to explore other options
that seem to have weathered the storm. One example of this locally is Polden
Wines, at Stocklands Vineyard, based in the Polden Hills, not far from
Bridgwater.
A recent visit with vine grower Sue Applegate, shows how
with passion and dedication a small business can still make its mark. This
diminutive vineyard was planted in 2008 with almost 4,000 vines of just two
grape varieties, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, in a total area of just 2 acres.
Although the two grape varieties yield the same tonnage, because of its tricky
nature, the Pinot Noir has a lower yield. The Pinot Noir, one of my favourite
grape varieties, takes up 2/3 of the area and is used both for their ‘Polden
Rose’ rosé wine and also ‘Polden Ruby’, their red wine. Its seductive colour
and complex flavours give it the advantage of being used either as a full red,
or with less skin contact during fermentation, a pretty pale rose. Their white
wine, ‘Polden Star’, is made from the Chardonnay grape variety, and here the
cool climate conditions give a clean, fresh wine with a hint of citrus, quite
unlike the heavier Chardonnays from the New World that many of us have become
accustomed to. Polden wines are all Single Vineyard, meaning that all of the
grapes from which the wine is pressed only comes from Stocklands vineyard.
Whilst up until now all of their wines have been single variety, in 2020, at
the height of the pandemic, a decision was made to make a sparkling wine with a
blend of both varieties. This decision was largely driven by the difficulties
posed by lockdown and the need to ensure that the harvest was not wasted. The
good news, for us as consumers, is that this month has seen the long-awaited
release of Polden’s first ever sparkling wine, ‘Polden Jazz’. Made with a
second fermentation in the bottle, and using both Chardonnay, which is
dominant, and Pinot Noir, two of the officially approved Champagne grape
varieties, this splendid newcomer cannot fail to lift the spirits. The wine is
un-oaked to retain a clean, fresh finish.
After a chance meeting with friends, Sue, renowned peony
grower, and with no vineyard experience, took over management of the vines in
2019 in what was to be a steep learning curve. With previous vineyard tenants
Mark and Jenny Thorp looking to retire and hand over the reins, Mark acted as
mentor, whilst Steve Brooksbank, a well-known wine maker from Shepton Mallet,
and with many awards to his name, continues to produce all Stocklands wines.
This perfect partnership, where the small team is supplemented by a band of
willing volunteers, is going from strength to strength. If you fancy bud
rubbing, tucking in, raising the wires, leaf stripping or harvesting grapes,
then get in touch.
Tasting sessions are held regularly, and with a ticket price
of just £10 per person to include tasting the three Polden wines, this would
make an ideal low cost Christmas present for budding oenophiles. The cost is
refunded on purchases of six or more bottles.
Open by Appointment
Telephone: 07493 773153
Thursday, 3 November 2022
TIME TO DECLUTTER
Nearing the end of this turbulent year, like many of us, I will be re-assessing my priorities.
Having resigned from all of my positions of responsibility at the beginning of the year, big sigh of relief, it has taken me longer than I thought to get my act together.
Not getting any younger, and with, thankfully, no family responsibilities, I have come to the conclusion that it is time to shed those responsibilities that remain, get my hands on as much filthy lucre as I’m entitled, and take off. When? When? Who knows? But what I do know is that I am hampered by my possessions. For me, in the privileged position of owning (with mortgages) two properties, one here in Somerset, and one in Northern France, now both up for sale, has brought about its challenges.
Reluctantly, I have realised that much as I love the things I surround myself with, collected over almost 60 years, and with lasting memories of times, places, people, what am I going to do in my declining years? Sit at home and stare at them?
I would describe myself as a tidy hoarder and have more of everything than almost anyone I know, but really, seven dinner services, enough bed linen for a hotel, and countless pairs of shoes, coats, and handbags. You can only eat off one plate or wear one pair of shoes at a time.
The only thing in constant short supply is wine, but that is a subject for another time.
My main problem, or two, is that I cannot bear waste, and love a bargain. The vast majority of what I own, including a grandfather clock, a posh leather sofa, and a full suit of armour, has been given to me. ‘I’m getting rid of this Linda, do you want it?’ I just cannot say no.
Nowadays I dare not leave the house, because three of my key weaknesses are community fund raisers, auctions, and charity shops, although I really do not need any more possessions.
I am an inveterate viewer of Antiques Road Trip and am continually astonished at how much stuff there is on offer, often very cheaply; items that can make quirky gifts, with the added advantage that the recipient is unlikely to establish how little it cost!
I think fondly of my 1930s walnut drinks cabinet complete with lemon squeezer in the door, which cost me £5, the 3m x 4m Axminster rug bought for just £18, the wrought iron staircase (which I put up myself) which was a mere £12, and hand-made Egyptian rag rug for just £5 (the very one the shop owner was sleeping on).
My point is, and it has taken me a while to get here, is that in the run up to Christmas and the gift giving season, do we really need to be trawling through the likes of Argos and Amazon to buy the latest, most expensive, smartest, on-trend gadget, clothing, toy? Not at all. We allow ourselves to be seduced by the marketing campaigns and part with our hard-earned cash on things which largely do not stand the test of time.
We all have our priorities. Moving forward mine are going to focus on enjoying the here and now, spending time with friends, and storing up those memories that will steer me through my dotage.
I shall focus on providing the people in my life with good experiences, top quality fresh food and wine, sourced locally and prepared with love. Things which demonstrate time and effort for loved ones, not open purse strings.
We spend much of our lives worrying about things that will often not come about and there is much to focus on for the remaining weeks of this year, but I live by this, some may say trite, mantra.
When trouble strikes there are only two question that matter:
‘Is this life or death?’ If the answer is no, then do not worry about it.
And if it is, ask ‘Can I do anything about the situation?’
If the answer is no, then do not worry about it.
Wishing you a worry-free start to 2023, combined with health wealth and happiness.
Tuesday, 11 October 2022
DINING AT THE SEAT OF THE ELITE
It is not every day that completely out of the blue one receives an invitation to dine with the provost (Lord William Waldegrave) in the hallowed halls of Eton College.
To many of us Eton College is synonymous with wealth and privilege; those holding important positions in whatever field they have chosen to practice, and often with titles attached to their names. Whilst, if one reads the British press (which I do not, having given it up as a bad job many years ago), this may reflect the man on the street’s views, it is far from the truth.
Eton College was originally founded by King Henry VI as a charity school to provide free education to 70 poor boys who would then go on to King's College, Cambridge, founded by the same King in 1441. It is well worth reading up on Eton’s history to put things into context.
A diverse group, all with a common bond, I, along with 60 others, had been invited to Eton because we had all been the fortunate recipients of bursaries which were offered as a result of the Fleming Report of 1944. The Report recommended reciprocal arrangements between Local Authorities and Public Schools – a proposal that led to what became known as the “Middlesex Scheme” to provide opportunities for public school education to boys and girls irrespective of the income of their parents. Collectively, the scheme beneficiaries were all known as ‘The Fleming Boys and Girls’.
This was the first ever get-together of us all, which had been organised by Old Etonian Christopher Horne, who has been carrying out research for a book on the subject.
The luncheon, hosted, and indeed paid for, by Eton College, included those who, in addition to Eton, had been educated at Mill Hill, Rugby, Winchester and, in my case, Westonbirt School. Joined by four other former Westonbirt girls, I was thoroughly delighted at being outnumbered 10 to 1 by our male counterparts. Few of those in attendance knew each other, and most had never met before, which made for enthusiastic, getting-to-know-you type conversation, and I soon discovered that, now fast approaching my 70s, I was almost the youngest person present.
On being introduced to my fellow diners, a lesser person might well have taken exception to being introduced as ‘The most notorious woman in England’, but not yours truly. I was assured that our organiser had done his homework, causing him to come to such a conclusion.
Smart casual was the dress code for the day, and after pre-lunch drinks (splendid English bubbly from Coates & Seely), accompanied by just cheese straws and crisps, nothing fancy, we settled down to lunch in Election Hall.
Thankfully, there was no table plan, and as I plonked myself down into a vacant seat, as the lone female, I was able to benefit from the company of the male diners at our table for eight, which included a bookmaker, a retired solicitor, and a financier who had taken up acting as a second career.
Whilst our surroundings, with its stained-glass windows, was impressive, I was struck by the lack of grandeur. In fact, I would suggest that Eton College is so comfortable in its own skin it has no need to impress.
Wines to accompany our two-course lunch included a modest Sancerre, and an Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, both very acceptable examples of their style and age. The food, whilst not quite award winning, was competently prepared and presented. For once, unusually for me, I could find no fault with it, or with the service we received. The apricot stuffed pork, accompanied by ratatouille-style vegetables, was moist and tender and for pud, we were served a deconstructed cheesecake made with baklava topped with blueberries.
No long speeches meant that lunch was over and done with in just over an hour and half. Perfect. Given the vast number of functions I had attended over many years this was by far the most enjoyable by a long shot. No-one had a hidden agenda, or was there to impress, influence, network, jockey for position or play at being top dog. It was a really jolly, lively gathering, where everyone was keen to engage and discover more about their fellow diners. Also of note, and a rare thing in this day and age, not one of the guests had expressed any food preferences when asked; no vegetarians, no allergies, no dislikes. We all came to the same conclusion; we were all of an age when different dietary requirements were not given any consideration.
Asked what public boarding school had done for me, I replied ‘Taught me to eat what is put in front of me and push it around the plate if necessary.’ To this day I still have a hatred of leeks (except in soup), and all forms of outdoor exercise, but can comfortably converse and mix with people from all social classes. However, life was not all a bed of roses. I was very homesick and kept running away, lasting a total of five terms before going onto Grammar School. Despite this, I still feel that in terms of my personal development I could not have wished for a better start in life and very much doubt that I would have otherwise achieved what I have without this opportunity.
I have become increasingly tired of the tirade against those who are wealthy or appear to be privileged in some way. In many cases they have worked hard to get where they are, and made sacrifices along the way.
Much has also been said during recent party-political conferences about our politicians’ back stories, and whether or not they are relevant. There is absolutely no doubt in my mind that it is our life experiences, both good and bad, that shape us, and make us what we are. Before we jump in with our prejudices and opinions, quick to judge and condemn others, we would do well to consider this.
Who are we to deny those who wish to improve the life chances for their offspring the opportunity to do so?
Coates & Seely NV sparkling wine, Hampshire, England, 12%abv. - £34.95
40% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier
Here they use their own version of the traditional méthode champenoise – the Méthode Britannique for their sparkling wine production. They no longer use isinglass, making the wines suitable for vegans.
Everything you would expect from a sparkling wine made from traditional Champagne grape varieties. Apple and lemon-curd aromas with honey-dew melon undertones and a typical yeasty fragrance. Full-bodied with plenty of fruit and a creamy finish.
Andre Dezat Sancerre, Loire, France 2020 13%abv. - £19
Made from Sauvignon Blanc, this is a highly thought of Sancerre, dry, yet fruity with a delicate bouquet and great length. Their vineyards have three different types of soil which give added complexity.
Domaine Rollin Pere et Fils Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France, 2018, 13.5%abv. - £15
Just two hectares from various parcels of 30-to-45-year-old Pinot Noir in Pernand and Echevronne go to produce this lovely wine. Sleek and elegant, with a fresh minerality. No new oak is used, and the wine is bottled after a relatively brief élévage of ten months in order to preserve its fruit.
Monday, 22 August 2022
THE BATHAMPTON MILL
THE BATHAMPTON MILL, Mill Lane, Bathampton, BA2 6TS
Tel. 01225 469758
With so many pubs, restaurants and other small businesses closing their doors for the final time in the last couple of years, it is heartening to hear of the recent investment that has been made for the refurbishment of The Bathampton Mill.
Having been a professional chef, competition judge and quality standards inspector for more years than I care to remember, I was delighted to receive an invitation to a preview of the new menu.
However, as a critic and writer let there be no mistake.. free meals do not necessarily mean a glowing review; it would be more than my reputation for objectivity and integrity is worth!
The Bathampton Mill, part of the long-standing Mitchells & Butlers Group, and part of their Premium Country Pubs brand, aims to deliver great food and drinks and a desire to consistently make the great British pub experience special for both their staff and guests.
Sited on the edge of Bath, one of the UK’s top visitor destinations, competition is tough. The danger for many establishments is the tendency to rely on passing trade, when in fact it is during the off-season that the loyalty of locals is what keeps a place ticking over.
Added to this is that with rising prices and the struggling economy, people are much more conscious of how they spend their hard-earned money and where they choose to spend it.
Much as I enjoy being on the receiving end of great service and good quality food, what is often overlooked, and can make or break the guest experience, is the hospitality; how I am treated. The odd mishap can be forgiven as long as I, the person paying their wages, feel valued.
Certainly, the splendidly stylish décor with its contemporary new look could not fail to give a very positive and welcoming first impression. The pub has a luxurious country house feel enhanced by interesting eye-catching artwork. Open log fires, for winter months, plush velvet seating and feature lighting add a touch of glamour to this relaxing and inviting space. Clearly this is intended to be a destination pub; not your average local boozer.
The pub has seating for 120, supplemented by a pleasant outdoor area; booking, especially at weekends, is advisable.
Invited to dine there prior to the official launch, the invitation was for myself and a guest, to sample items from their ‘All Day Menu’, which includes the usual suspects, pizza, burgers, steaks and salads, in addition to other more interesting dishes. Seasonal menus, with a range of interesting options from around the world, are supplemented by familiar pub favourites. The Bathampton Mill also prides itself on their rotisserie pork belly, 21 day-aged ribeye steak, and of course the traditional Sunday roast. Their new Dine at Home service is an ideal option for those nights when you don’t feel like cooking. Orders placed via their website automatically receive a 20% discount.
Arriving on a warm sunny evening, everything looked spick and span, and we were greeted by lovely smiley staff, including Rob (part of the training team and manager at another property), manager Kiran, and Max at the bar, who engaged with us enthusiastically to talk about the wide selection of beverages on offer.
I plumped for the Blood Orange and Passion Fruit Collins, from their extensive list of cocktails (sadly no brandy ones on offer though) which at £8.95 seemed reasonable and was quite delicious; sunshine in a glass. It could well become my go-to cocktail in future. Cocktails are just £12 for two from Monday to Thursday.
My companion, unable to decide which of the 30+ wines by the glass to have, was given several to try before making her decision. As she was driving (so that I could drink) she opted for the low calorie, low alcohol rosé. Not quite my cup of tea; I opted for an Italian Gavi, and a Portuguese red from the Douro. It was good to be able to choose something other than the limited mundane range of choices on offer in most pubs.
Our waitress for the evening, Zoe, was attentive without being intrusive and, once again, was keen to engage with us when invited to do so. When questioned about menu items she showed a good level of knowledge and an awareness of allergies.
In addition to quite an extensive ‘All Day Menu’, vegetarians and vegans are not forgotten, with a separate menu offered. There is also a children’s menu, main courses at £5.95, where it was pleasing to see some nod to offering healthy accompaniments in addition to the usual pizza, pasta and chicken. Whilst showing the calorie count for each dish was useful, on a personal level, when dining out, I am not at all sure that I want to be reminded of how much I am consuming!
As the pub is part of a large group, it is understandable that some menu items are bought in rather than being made in house.
All of the food we tried was well presented. We opted for ……. (yes, I know, scallops and pork, but our bellies got the better of us!)
PAN-FRIED WILD SCALLOPS with ras el hanout, smoked haddock Florentine bonbons, celeriac purée, apple & fennel tartare 265kcal 11.50. Whilst enjoyable, I felt that the scallops were somewhat overwhelmed by the other ingredients.
PORK BELLY BAO BUN with miso and sweet chili sauce, and kimchi 587kcal 7.25. This was less successful, and a poor rendition of a Chinese staple.
CAESAR SALAD - baby gem lettuce, anchovies, shaved parmesan, ciabatta croutons 627kcal 10.95. This was huge, and although the anchovies were tinned rather than fresh, it was a fair attempt at a classic salad, and a good deal better than most I have sampled recently.
MAPLE-GLAZED SLOW-COOKED PORK BELLY & SCALLOPS with a pulled pork & cider bonbon, roasted celeriac & fresh apple purée, dauphinoise potatoes, Tenderstem® broccoli, Bordelaise* sauce 1410kcal 19.75. Lots of lovely crispy crackling with this, and the generous portion of Dauphinoise potatoes were very well executed. As for the scallops, an unnecessary addition.
HOME-BAKED CHOCOLATE BROWNIE Belgian chocolate sauce, Bourbon vanilla ice cream (v) 661kcal 6.95. This is one of a few homemade puds on offer. I am not normally a brownie fan, but this was superb and highly recommended.
SICILIAN LEMON POSSET Vanilla sablé biscuits (v) 325kcal 6.95. Served unusually in a shallow ramekin, this provided a light finale to what was overall a good dining experience.
I would like to have seen cheese on offer to appease those who do not have a sweet tooth.
There is clear customer focus and flexibility at The Bathampton Mill, and although as the evening progressed there were some minor teething problems, this is to be expected with a brand-new team of staff in place; the overwhelming feeling was one of enthusiasm and positivity, and a good level of knowledge, although the website does need some tidying up.
I certainly plan to return and have earmarked several other dishes worth trying ….
CROXTON MANOR CHEESE SOUFFLÉ - toasted pine nuts, red chicory, sweet pear, cucumber dressing (v) 541kcal 7.50
BUTTERMILK CHICKEN, SOMERSET BRIE & BACON PIE - sautéed green beans & Tenderstem® broccoli, creamed potato, rich chicken gravy 1375kcal 15.75
APPLE & DAMSON CRUMBLE – with Bourbon vanilla ice cream 204kcal or custard 80kcal (v) 6.75
In an industry which is struggling, The Bathampton Mill is clearly taking a step in the right direction, putting the customer at the heart of its operation.
Sunday, 5 June 2022
THERE BUT FOR THE GRACE OF GOD
They say that there are only two things that are certain in
life; death and taxes.
Well, most of us, although law abiding people, spend much of
our time trying to see how we can avoid paying tax.
However, death is unavoidable and will come to us all
eventually.
I seem to be attending funerals at the rate of one a week at
the moment. Some deaths were not entirely unexpected; the person concerned
might have been suffering from long-standing health conditions, and their
family and loved ones had experienced first-hand their painful decline and
eventual demise. What is shocking though are those sudden and unexpected
deaths; here today gone tomorrow.
It is as if they have just popped out to do a bit of
shopping and disappeared off the face of the earth; nothing can prepare us for
such an eventuality.
On a personal level, I have always gone by the maxim ‘live
each day as if it is your last’.
The recent loss of several friends, including one with whom
I had enjoyed a long weekend in France just days ago, has given me pause for
thought, and made me more determined than ever to do enjoy the here and now.
None of us know when or where we might breathe our last breath, and I want to
squeeze out every last gasp.
Although the pandemic has made us all much more aware of the
importance of regular contact with loved ones, I am going to make a more conscious
effort to ensure that at the last point of contact with friends and family they
know that I love them and value them.
Just in case.
Thursday, 19 May 2022
Summer Celebrations
As the summer gets underway, and despite the doom and gloom
of the economy, we have lots to celebrate, both nationally and locally.
Many of our local villages and towns are gearing themselves
up for a host of celebrations to mark the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee, with the
added bonus that we get an extra-long bank holiday from Thursday 2nd to Sunday
5th June.
It looks like we are in for a fun-packed weekend.
Chard Town Council has been working together with local
schools, to organise a torch-lit parade, Thursday, June 2, along with a
lantern-making workshop in the Guildhall, Fore Street that morning.
The torch-lit parade will culminate with the lighting of the
Beacon on Crowshute Link at 9.45pm.
On Friday June 3 there is a special Civic Parade and Service
of Thanksgiving take place at St. Mary’s Church. In the evening there will be a
show, “Queen of the Commonwealth”, taking place at 7pm at the Guildhall.
On Saturday June 4, Freedom Leisure will have activities
taking place, in addition to a show at the Beacon, headlined with Bristol based
band Goodnight Lois.
On Sunday, June 5 Holyrood Street will be transformed to a
street party with entertainment for families, a brass band and food
outlets.
Over in Crewkerne there will be a ‘Jubilee in the Park’
celebration at Henhayes Recreation Ground on Friday 3rd June, 2-5pm.
Meanwhile, just down the road in Ilminster there will be
‘The Party on the Rec’ from 20am – 5pm, organised by the Rotary Club of
Ilminster, with live music, food, ice cream, a bar, games, and a dog show, all
for free!
Keep your eyes peeled for events in your own
community.
This is not all that we are good at though. Recently asked
to be one of the judges for the Town Crier competition held in Ilminster, and
ably organised once again by Town Crier Andrew Fox and his wife Julie, I was
reminded of the many wonderful quirky traditions for which we should be
famously proud. With Town Criers descending on the town from cross the country
it was fun to see traffic stopped in its tracks to view this wonderful
spectacle as entrants were put through their paces; and creating a right old
racket! What was particularly heartening was to see that the younger generation
are getting in on the act and that local lass, Sophy, from Chard, was the clear
winner in the junior competition.
Here's a bit of history for you.
Historically town criers, or Bellmen, were the original
newsmen and were particularly important when most of the population was
illiterate.
The first town criers were the Spartan Runners in the early
Greek Empire. With the advent of the Roman Conquest the role became a position
of the court, formalised after the Norman Conquest in 1066.
Town criers were protected by law; “Don’t shoot the
messenger” was a very real command as anything done to a town crier was deemed
to be done to the King and a treasonable offence. People of standing in the
community were chosen as they had to be able to write and read official
proclamations. Often, they were a husband-and-wife team with the wife ringing
the large hand bell whilst her husband shouted out the proclamation, usually at
the door of the local inn, before nailing it to the doorpost. The tradition has
resulted in the expression “posting a notice” and the naming of newspapers as
“The Post”.
Announcements are always preceded by the traditional “Oyez!
Oyez! Oyez!” (which is “listen” in French) and conclude with “God save the
Queen”.
Another truly British tradition that livens up many a town
and village throughout the summer months is that of Morris dancing, a form of
English folk dance usually accompanied by music. It is based on rhythmic
stepping and the execution of choreographed figures by a group of dancers,
usually wearing bell pads on their shins. Implements such as sticks, swords and
handkerchiefs may also be wielded by the dancers.
The earliest known and surviving English written mention of
Morris dance is dated to 1448 and records the payment of seven shillings to
Morris dancers by the Goldsmiths’ Company in London.
While the earliest records invariably mention “Morys” in a
court setting, and a little later in the Lord Mayors’ Processions in London, it
had adopted the nature of a folk dance performed in the parishes by the
mid-17th century.
Along with cheese rolling, cream teas, Guy Fawkes’s Night, a
good old Sunday roast and our ability to queue, these are things that never
fail to bring a smile to my face and makes me truly proud to be
British.
This summer there is plenty to keep us occupied without
breaking the bank.
Monday, 9 May 2022
THE MAGIC OF MONTENEGRO
My
recent trip to the Balkan states of Croatia, Bosnia-Hercegovina and Montenegro
had been planned long before the situation in the Ukraine began to dominate our
media. I had been apprehensive that a combination of Covid travel restrictions,
and fears of an escalation of the war, would mean the trip would be cancelled, but
thankfully not.
From
previous experience I know that travelling to war-torn areas of the world can
reap many benefits; the absence of hordes of tourists, greater value for money,
and the fact that the native population are so grateful to have visitors they
welcome you with open arms.
With
its unspoiled sandy beaches, historic architecture and awe-inspiring scenery, Montenegro
is a much sought-after travel destination.
Where
others may focus their travels on specific aspects of a country, its history,
nature, wildlife etc., my focus is always on food and wine.
This
was an organised tour (the subject of another article) and during our first
week as much as visits to UNESCO World Heritage Sites were worthwhile, changing
hotels every night made is more difficult to get to grips with an area. Thankfully
during our second we week we were able to stay put in one place, in Bečići, just
outside the popular holiday town of Budva (which must be a nightmare in the
summer months), giving me the opportunity to explore the Montenegrin vineyard
region in some depth.
Whilst
in many countries it can be advantageous to take part in an organised tour, this
was not all necessary in Montenegro, where the crime rate is very low, and
outside of peak holiday times getting out and about is hassle-free.
I
would advise against booking one of the many organised ‘wine tours’ available.
Starting at around €50 per person they do not offer good value for money. The
road network, and signage, is good, car hire is inexpensive at €22 per day,
including insurance, and driving is stress free. Many of the vineyards are
one-man bands and whilst there are advantages to having a guide, especially as
many vineyard owners do not speak English, they are always welcoming, and most
are willing to provide tastings free of charge. Do be aware that some wineries
are open by reservation only.
Many
Montenegrin vineyards are located in the southern and coastal regions of the
country, around beautiful Lake Skadar, also renowned for its trout, carp and
eel, all of which I was able to sample at bargain basement prices.
Montenegro’s
mild climate ensures excellent conditions for wine production, with wines made
from a wide range of grape varieties including native varieties such as Krstač
and Vranac, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Chardonnay, amongst
others.
Also,
not to be missed is the hillside village of Njeguši on the slopes of Mount
Lovćen, with a population of just 35, and where they produce superb Proscuitto
(pršut), good enough to rival that produced in Parma, Italy. The
particular flavour and aroma of pršut is the result of the mixture of
sea and mountain air and the beech wood burned during the lengthy drying
process, which can take up to two years to complete. Also worth looking out for,
is the fresh local cheese and intensely perfumed honey. Production of these
local delicacies is largely a cottage industry, where tastings and sales are
conducted from the kitchen of someone’s home.
When
shopping locally or eating out, except in larger hotels and restaurants in the
main tourist areas, it is worth noting that this is largely a cash economy where
credit cards are not usually accepted.
Widely
considered Montenegro’s national drink, a good deal of the distilled spirit
known as rakija is also produced. Said to be a restorative, instantly
destroying bacteria, it gives relief to stomach and muscle pain, annihilating
viruses and disinfects wounds. I am left wondering that whilst many of my
fellow travellers seemed to be stricken with one ailment or another, it must be
the quantity I imbibed that kept me in good health. It is considered obligatory
when welcoming someone to your home to offer them a glass of this. Rakija,
very similar to the Grappa popular in Italy, can be made out of almost any
fruit and has an alcohol content ranging from 40% to 80%, or higher. Most
households make their own, with that made from grapes (Loza) being the
most popular.
Of
the many vineyards along this route here are a few worth trying, and whose
wines I enjoyed. The average price for their most recent vintages was in the
region of €10 a bottle. For the smaller producers wine sales are on site only,
and very few are available to buy in the UK at the moment, but then you would
be missing out on a delightful travel experience!
Cemovsko
Field
This
is the largest vineyard on one site in Europe, stretching an impressive 2310 ha.,
owned by the Montenegrin company 13.Jul Plantaže and established in 1963. For
me, small has always been beautiful. Very consumer focused, at this commercial operation
they offer a variety of tastings and tours (€12 - €22). They seem to supply
many of the hotels and restaurants with the mini 187ml. bottles of house wine
on offer, where I would compare the quality with the standard offering of our
local pubs; drinkable but unremarkable.
At
the premium end of their offerings there are however several award-winning
wines available at around £24 a bottle.
Plantaže
Wines, Put Radomira Ivanovića, br.2, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38220658028
Mola
Family Vineyards
Situated
in the Podgorica wine region this sizeable family-owned estate is situated in
the picturesque village of Rogami. Just minutes away from the ruins of the
Roman village Duklja, the mountainous setting makes for prime wine growing
conditions, with the sun- drenched surroundings cultivating excellent grape
crops. The Mola family produce a variety of wines including a merlot, a
cabernet sauvignon, and a white and red blend.
Mola
Family Vineyards, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38267867691
Radevic
Estate
This
small, family run vineyard lies just outside of Podgorica city is also in the
village of Rogami. The Radevik family pride themselves on their ability to grow
and produce original, quality wines using sustainable, organic farming
techniques. The wines produced here include a blend of Vranac, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Syrah. There is a comfortable guest house situated on the grounds of the
estate, and watch out for their super-strength Rakiji.
Radevic
Estate, Rogami-Piperi bb, Podgorica, Montenegro. +382-69-276-055
Vinarija
Bogojević
This
family-run vineyard boasts generations of wine-making experience. Their rustic,
homely estate and flourishing vineyard produces a celebrated Bogdan wine, a
dense, dark red with hints of vanilla, blueberry, and cassis. As well as wine,
Vinarija Bogojević also produces grappa in both a traditional and herbal
variety. With beautiful views over Skadar Lake, this vineyard provides its visitors
with experiences to remember.
Vinarija
Bogojević, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38267533001
Castel
Savina
Castel
Savina is situated in the historic region of Herceg-Novi, an area of historical
significance in Montenegro featuring a beautiful monastery founded by the Duke
of Saint Sava. With breath-taking views over the Bay of Kotor, Castel Savina’s luscious
greenery and impressive surroundings provide an ideal backdrop for wine
tasting. Producing a range which includes a Merlot, a Cabernet Sauvignon, a Grenache
rosé and a Chardonnay, there is something for everyone here. The winemakers
employ techniques perfected over years in the industry to produce excellent,
first-rate products every time. Castel Savina is a family run venue, the only
winery in the bay of Kotor and on the Montenegrin coast in general.
Tours
by reservation only.
Castel
Savina, Branka Ćopića 7d, Herceg Novi, Montenegro +382 69 042022
Milović
Winery
This
substantial vineyard and olive plantation produces around 20,000 bottles of
wine a year, and is nestled just outside of Ulcinj, the Southernmost town in
Montenegro. A thriving seaside region famous for its unspoiled beaches, the
area provides ideal conditions for growing grapes. Generating a number of
Barrique-stored red wines, the traditional Vranacs here are rich and dark ruby
coloured, combining a mixture of forest fruit, cranberry and vanilla flavours. Guests
can also stay in the Milović Winery’s apartment complex, with its own tennis
court and swimming pool overlooking the gorgeous Montenegrin wine country. Be
sure to enjoy a glass in their rustic, cosy wine cellar.
Milović
Winery, Briska Gora, Ulcinj, Montenegro. +38267350526
Winery
Mašanović
Winery
Mašanović is situated in the small town of Virpazar on Lake Skadar, the largest
lake in the Balkan peninsula, and a vast national park that in 2011 was
nominated as a UNESCO world heritage site. The beauty of the surroundings make
this vineyard a stunning place to explore, and the mild climate and natural
fertility of the soil make for robust and tasty wines with unique flavours.
Established in 1969, this vineyard and winery grows six type of grapes and
specialises in the traditional Montenegrin Vranec wine, a dark red variety with
flavours of dark chocolate, fruit and burnt oak. Also produced here are a range
of brandies, as well as cherry and walnut liqueurs made from organic fruits
grown on the property.
This
family-owned winery has the longest tradition in winemaking and wine growing in
Montenegro and is known for its dry red wines which take on a deep dark red
hue, with purple tones. Here I was able to sample many of their barrique aged
wines.
KRIN
barrique is their top level dry red wine, made from Vranac. On the palate the
wine tastes like burnt oak (they use French barriques), with raspberry and
cranberry fruit flavours.
DIONIS
barrique – made by blending 3 grape varieties, Vranac, Marselan and Petit
Verdot.
BUĆA
barrique – made from a blend of 5 grape varieties, Vranac, Marselan, Petit
Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. This is produced in limited
quantities of just 500 bottles, and is characterised by dark chocolate and
cinnamon aromas which follow through on the palate.
TRE
SORELLE barrique (semi-sweet) - the late harvesting of selected berries
increases naturally the concentration of sugar in for this blend of Marselan,
Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Full bodied, round and complex with a rich
fruity-creamy aftertaste and chocolate finish.
Winery
Mašanović, Virpazar, Montenegro. ++382069063460
www.
masanovic.blogspot.com
The
Sjekloća Estate
This
winery produces just a few thousand bottles of wine a year, giving it an air of
exclusivity. Vineyard owner Milenko K. Sjekloća was born in Crmnica, the heart
of Montenegrin wine country, and has a reputation for unbeatable wine
knowledge. His expertise has enabled him to create truly original and
innovative flavours of wine at his estate. The traditional Vranac wine here is
aged for 12 months before bottling, and the cellar boasts a large number of
vintage bottles varying in type and taste.
For
€50 visitors can tour the vineyards and cellar with the expert guidance of the
owner, taste t3 vintage wines and obtain wines not available of the open
market.
The
Sjekloća Estate, Milenko Sjekloća,Limljani bb, Virpazar, Montenegro.
+382020712
231
Rupice
Winery
With
a rich history dating back to the early 20th century, the wines of Rupice
Winery have been internationally renowned since they were first sampled at the
Balkan Wine Fair in London, back in 1907. Located in Rupice Komanske just west
of Podgorica, the owners here produce premium quality wine and brandy with the
help of the area’s microclimate.
Respecting
the traditional methods implemented by the winery’s first owners, Rupice cultivates
its grapes in limited quantities to prevent overproduction, and practices
biodynamic farming methods. Their Di Vine branded red wine has a rich fruity
aroma, cherry taste and velvety texture.
Rupice
Winery,b13 Moskovska, Podgorica, Montenegro +38268313068
Vinarija
Buk
This
private vineyard and winery lies in the village of Bukovik, also in the famous
Crmnica wine growing region, with a total grapevine count of over 6000. The
Vinarija Buk wines include a traditional Vranac, an enticing Marselan, and a
medium-bodied French wine grape variety first developed by crossing a Cabernet Sauvignon
with a black Grenache.
Vinarija
Buk, Bukovik, Montenegro. +38267528853.
With
building work being carried out at some pace across Montenegro, due to inward
investment taking advantage of the favourable tax system here, I fear for the future
of the unspoilt areas of this beautiful country. My advice, visit as soon as
you can before the high-rise hotels fully take hold.
Monday, 2 May 2022
Statement from Linda Vijeh - X MARKS THE BOX
With local elections just four days away, the results for Somerset could not be more significant as voters go to the polls to determine who will represent them as the county moves forward towards becoming a unitary authority.
With national politics, and the misdemeanours of our parliamentary representatives, dominating the news in recent weeks it is natural for there to be a tendency towards this to impact on local decisions. In my view, this is a mistake.
Although a highly respected South Somerset Conservative councillor for almost 20 years, I have never been in favour of voting along party lines. What should matter to us all is the suitability of individual candidates to accurately and honestly represent us; someone with integrity that you know can be trusted, even if you may not always agree with their views.
Sadly, at all levels of government this is often in short supply. I raise this now, because in February of this year at SSDC’s full council meeting I was publicly subjected to an unprovoked attack on my personal integrity by fellow councillors, including Cllr. Seib, Cllr. Dance, Cllr. Clarke and Cllr. Soughton, along with several others. One after the other, in a pre-planned and concerted verbal assault, they sought to defame me, suggesting that my decision to stand down was in some way connected with dishonest behaviour. Such was the serious nature of their comments that I had no option but to take legal action. The consequence of this was that they have all agreed to issue corrective statements at the next full council meeting on 19th May, conveniently after the election.
What is key to the situation is that the comments about me were made in response to a vote of no confidence in the leader of SSDC (brought forward by Cllr. Martin Wale as a result of the investigation into alleged corruption and fraud within SSDC), but completely unrelated to the issue in hand; the non-disclosure of information relating to claims of corruption and fraud. During the meeting this was never properly addressed as is evident from the video recording of the proceedings.
In deciding who to vote for this week, I would urge local residents to question and challenge the honesty and reliability of those seeking to represent them.
Just this week a colleague of the councillors involved approached me to say how sorry they were about the comments that were made by members of their own party, describing the behaviour of those mentioned as despicable. I could not agree more.
In my experience several of those currently in positions of authority have selective memories.
Monday, 28 March 2022
A DROP IN THE OCEAN - UNDERWATER WINERIES
From time to time, stories of the discovery, and recovery, of
precious cargoes of wine, brandy and other vintage tipples hit the headlines,
often resulting in them being sold off at auction for huge sums of money. This,
despite the fact that in many cases what’s inside the bottle may well be
undrinkable. One way of assessing its drinkability before shelling out a whole
load of cash is to use a device produced by Coravin, which is capable of
extracting wine without removing the cork.
As recently as 2019, an expedition organised by Cookson
Adventures, with the aid of various maritime and archaeological entities, including
maritime exploration company 10994 Ltd., was undertaken to salvage cargo from a
British ship torpedoed off the coast of Cornwall in 1918. The ship in question
was a British cargo ship sailing from Bordeaux to the UK with a cargo of wine
when it was sunk by a German U-boat.
This resulting haul of several hundred bottles of wine,
Champagne and spirits was worth millions of pounds.
Rich pickings indeed for the small number of niche companies
that specialise in such recovery operations.
Such exciting discoveries are more frequent than you might
think.
For those lucky enough to be able to afford to participate
in such adventures, it is a once in a lifetime opportunity to experience first-hand
discoveries of great historical significance.
Also in 2019, a team from specialist salvage company Ocean X
recovered 900 bottles of booze that had been on board the Swedish ship S.S.
Kyros, sunk by a German submarine in 1917 during World War I, on its way to
deliver its cargo to Tzar Nicholas II, and now lying at the bottom of the
Baltic Sea.
The team, used remote-controlled vehicles in order to
retrieve the bottles as the depth, and condition
of the ship and the surroundings of the wreck made the scenario too dangerous
even for trained deep divers.
Ocean X was also behind the recovery of the 300 year old “shipwreck
wine” found in the North Sea. These surviving bottles of wine, auctioned by
Christie’s, fetched thousands of pounds each. A single bottle of Veuve Clicquot
found in the wreckage sold for almost £30,000.
Back to the 21st century.
In the deep, freezing cold, dark waters of the Baltic Sea
and the North Sea, items are to all intents and purposes in cold storage. This
has prompted some entrepreneurs to exploit the sea’s cool, dark environment and
invest in underwater wineries as conditions in the sea are felt to mimic key
ageing factors that impact on the wine.
In 2008, Emmanuel Poirmeur, of winery Egiategia, began
submerging sparkling wines in France’s bay of Saint Jean de Luz, lured by what
he described as the perfect conditions for secondary fermentation. The
unpredictable nature of the process soon had him hooked. “If I put 20 wine
tanks below the sea, all exactly the same, they’ll all come back different,” he
said.
So, working with a small team, which included diver Borja Saracho,
he gained permission to rent 500 square metres of seabed in the bay of Plentzia
on Spain’s north coast and formed Crusoe Treasure. They sank specially designed
structures capable of storing wine, which also acted as an artificial reef.
Winemakers across the country soon joined in the experiment, sending bottles of
wine for Saracho to plunge into the sea.
The results were astounding, and the development of the
wines described as being very distinct from what would happen with the same
grape on land.
Similar experiments have been carried out in other parts of
the world, providing a cornerstone for what is now a niche and rapidly growing sector
of the wine industry. Both in Europe and in the new world winemakers are utilising
the power of underwater environments to shape their wines.
The logic behind the theory is that is that underwater
conditions, such as constant temperature and the absence of light, mimic two of
the vital ageing factors that contribute so much to the development of the
wine.
The technique does come at a cost though. The logistics of
submerging and retrieving wine, along with the increased risk of breakage and
leaks can increase production costs by as much as 70%.
Among those turning to underwater ageing are some of the wine
industry’s biggest players. Louis Roederer (of Cristal champagne fame), made
headlines when it began using the waters off Mont Saint-Michel as an underwater
cellar. Likewise, an experiment by Veuve Clicquot, saw them sinking a
champagne-filled vault into the Baltic Sea.
As the sector grows, techniques are varying wildly. Some
winemakers sink their wines in sealed amphorae, while others use
custom-designed barrels or submersible cages laden with algae-encrusted
bottles. Others have shunned marine environments and opted for water-filled
tanks on land in shallower water, leaving the wine at the mercy of rising tides
and partial exposure to air.
In 2019 the first-ever underwater wine congress was held in
northern Spain, with the aim of ensuring a responsible approach to the marine
environment, as concern about climate change increases, bringing with it a
wider range of water temperatures and an increase in the number of violent
weather patterns. At Crusoe Treasure, the underwater cellars are fitted with
sensors, providing first-hand knowledge of how the environment is being transformed.
For wine lovers interested in experiencing these
extraordinary wines go to
Sea Soul No4, is a limited-edition offering from the winery (£58.50)
raised to the surface after ageing underwater for six months. Made from 100%
Syrah obtained from the vineyards of Álex Ascaso, who is passionate about
environmental sustainability, respect for tradition and experimentation. The
vineyards at Ayerbe, north of the Monegros and at the foot of the Loarre
Mountains, are influenced by the warm southerly winds and in contrast to the
northern cierzo from the mountains. A privileged environment where the
grapes can mature expressing their full potential.
And where the human hand brings the result to a close.
Wednesday, 2 March 2022
Statement from Linda Vijeh following last night's SSDC full council meeting
Following the outcome and statements made at last night’s South Somerset District Council meeting in relation to the motion of no confidence in the leadership of Cllr. Val Keitch, put forward by Cllr. Martin Wale, I feel that I must put the record straight.
In responding to the motion, Cllr. Keitch stated that the offer of the position of CEO to Clare Pestell was withdrawn once the serious nature of the allegations made against her became known.
This is not accurate. SSDC announced on 4th June 2021 that ‘Clare Pestell has decided that for personal reasons she will not now be taking up the position’. No mention was made in the communication to members of the offer being withdrawn by SSDC, as stated by Cllr. Keitch. The was also clarified with me during a virtual meeting between myself and the then CEO, Alex Parmley that same day.
As late as 8th July, despite asking the question on a number of occasions, I had still not been able to find out why Clare Pestell had resigned.
What does not seem to have been mentioned, is the fact that on at least one occasion the CEO had stayed and received hospitality at Clare Pestell’s vineyard, but did not declare this.
Furthermore, after an Ilminster Town Council meeting at the end of last year I asked Cllr. Keitch outright ‘If there had not been a whistle blower, would we have discovered this?’ Her response was emphatic ‘Yes, we already had our suspicions.’ This is at odds with comments made by Cllr. Keitch at this week’s meeting.
It has been suggested that initially it was felt that the anonymous letter may have been sent maliciously, but I can confirm that there had been many attempts, over a long period of time, to alert the CEO of concerns over corruption and fraud, none of which were heeded.
During last night’s full council meeting my name was mentioned on a number of occasions, particularly in relation to the fact that some years ago, in 2013, I used the services of members of SSDC’s Street Scene to chop down trees at my property in France. I can confirm that the work carried out was done over a weekend, not in working time, by two members of staff, using private transport, and that no money changed hands. As mentioned by a fellow councillor, I have always been very open about this, given that I had nothing to hide and no wrong doing had taken place.
During the investigation into Clare Pestell’s actions, and at the appeal hearing, when it became clear that members of the Street Scene team were under investigation, I immediately offered to declare my interest, and was told that it was not necessary to do so as the appeal hearing related just to Clare Pestell.
Finally, it has been suggested that Cllr. Wale’s motion was brought about for political reasons given the upcoming by-election for my Neorche ward seat. This is not the case at all, rather it seems to me that the issue is being politicised by those SSDC councillors who refuse to acknowledge the failings of their own authority.
Wednesday, 16 February 2022
To Vax or Not to Vax
Tennis star Novac Djokovic’s announcement this week clarifying his stance concerning the Covid vaccine, and his reasons for not wanting to have it, has caused some controversy. This is worth mentioning as he is seen as a role model for many people who may be hesitant to accept it. Had he explained this last month, when trying to get permission to stay in Australia, he might have saved us all a lot of airtime.
Whilst I am not anti-vaccine, I do have some sympathy with him. To be honest, I am ambivalent.
For the last two years we have all been living through unprecedented and turbulent times. The need for swift action has meant that the ability to devise a vaccine as a matter of urgency has rightly gained much acclaim and applause. However, as has often been the case in the past, such a rapid response can have its drawbacks. We are unlikely to see any potential long-term repercussions manifest themselves for some time.
I was prompt in having my first two Astra-Zeneca jabs, thankfully without any side effects at all. However, this was not the case with the Moderna booster jab which knocked me for six, laying me low for days and with ongoing symptoms since then. I am not at all sure that I will now be so willing to have a further booster should it be offered.
Fearful of catching Covid, largely due to long-term respiratory problems, I am all too aware that the only person who can protect my health is myself. Hence, I have been very cautious about where I go, and who I mix with. Apart from the period when we were in full lockdown, I have largely been able to go about my business and do test regularly.
But, having said that, I firmly believe that all businesses, entertainment venues, health providers, employers and employees do have the right to be protected where possible. If this means that in some cases freedom of movement means agreeing to succumb to the Covid vaccine, then that has to be respected. Whilst Novac has every right to refuse the vaccine, he cannot expect to then be granted the same freedoms as those of us who are willing to take the risk of being vaccinated. Yes, there may be as yet unknown long-term consequences but to protect my health in the here and now, it is a risk I am willing to take.
Monday, 7 February 2022
Kate wants to step into Linda's shoes!
In the wake of my decision to step back from public life at the beginning of the year, after almost 20 years of representing the four villages that form Neroche ward (Ashill, Broadway, Donyatt and Horton), I am delighted that Kate Wylie Carrick has stepped up to the plate and has agreed to put herself forward as a candidate in the upcoming by-election, to be held on 3rd March.
As many people will be aware, I continue to be active within these communities and intend to be so for the foreseeable future, supporting Kate in her efforts to represent local residents, to listen to their concerns and actively ensure that their voices are heard.
The last two years have been tough for us all, but in the case of South Somerset District Council this has been exacerbated by recent revelations concerning corruption and fraud, which coupled with a number of controversial planning issues in the ward, has meant that many residents feel that they have not been well served by our local authority. I feel confident that Kate will continue my legacy of impartiality and integrity in being the true voice of all residents.
Monday, 24 January 2022
I will not be whipped
Friday, 21 January 2022
The Olive Tree Restaurant, Bath - Review