DINING AT THE SEAT OF THE ELITE

 

It is not every day that completely out of the blue one receives an invitation to dine with the provost (Lord William Waldegrave) in the hallowed halls of Eton College. 

To many of us Eton College is synonymous with wealth and privilege; those holding important positions in whatever field they have chosen to practice, and often with titles attached to their names. Whilst, if one reads the British press (which I do not, having given it up as a bad job many years ago), this may reflect the man on the street’s views, it is far from the truth.  

Eton College was originally founded by King Henry VI as a charity school to provide free education to 70 poor boys who would then go on to King's College, Cambridge, founded by the same King in 1441. It is well worth reading up on Eton’s history to put things into context. 

A diverse group, all with a common bond, I, along with 60 others, had been invited to Eton because we had all been the fortunate recipients of bursaries which were offered as a result of the Fleming Report of 1944. The Report recommended reciprocal arrangements between Local Authorities and Public Schools – a proposal that led to what became known as the “Middlesex Scheme” to provide opportunities for public school education to boys and girls irrespective of the income of their parents. Collectively, the scheme beneficiaries were all known as ‘The Fleming Boys and Girls’. 

This was the first ever get-together of us all, which had been organised by Old Etonian Christopher Horne, who has been carrying out research for a book on the subject.  

The luncheon, hosted, and indeed paid for, by Eton College, included those who, in addition to Eton, had been educated at Mill Hill, Rugby, Winchester and, in my case, Westonbirt School. Joined by four other former Westonbirt girls, I was thoroughly delighted at being outnumbered 10 to 1 by our male counterparts. Few of those in attendance knew each other, and most had never met before, which made for enthusiastic, getting-to-know-you type conversation, and I soon discovered that, now fast approaching my 70s, I was almost the youngest person present.  

On being introduced to my fellow diners, a lesser person might well have taken exception to being introduced as ‘The most notorious woman in England’, but not yours truly. I was assured that our organiser had done his homework, causing him to come to such a conclusion.  

Smart casual was the dress code for the day, and after pre-lunch drinks (splendid English bubbly from Coates & Seely), accompanied by just cheese straws and crisps, nothing fancy, we settled down to lunch in Election Hall.  

Thankfully, there was no table plan, and as I plonked myself down into a vacant seat, as the lone female, I was able to benefit from the company of the male diners at our table for eight, which included a bookmaker, a retired solicitor, and a financier who had taken up acting as a second career.  

Whilst our surroundings, with its stained-glass windows, was impressive, I was struck by the lack of grandeur. In fact, I would suggest that Eton College is so comfortable in its own skin it has no need to impress.  

Wines to accompany our two-course lunch included a modest Sancerre, and an Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, both very acceptable examples of their style and age. The food, whilst not quite award winning, was competently prepared and presented. For once, unusually for me, I could find no fault with it, or with the service we received. The apricot stuffed pork, accompanied by ratatouille-style vegetables, was moist and tender and for pud, we were served a deconstructed cheesecake made with baklava topped with blueberries.  

No long speeches meant that lunch was over and done with in just over an hour and half. Perfect. Given the vast number of functions I had attended over many years this was by far the most enjoyable by a long shot. No-one had a hidden agenda, or was there to impress, influence, network, jockey for position or play at being top dog. It was a really jolly, lively gathering, where everyone was keen to engage and discover more about their fellow diners. Also of note, and a rare thing in this day and age, not one of the guests had expressed any food preferences when asked; no vegetarians, no allergies, no dislikes. We all came to the same conclusion; we were all of an age when different dietary requirements were not given any consideration.  

Asked what public boarding school had done for me, I replied ‘Taught me to eat what is put in front of me and push it around the plate if necessary.’ To this day I still have a hatred of leeks (except in soup), and all forms of outdoor exercise, but can comfortably converse and mix with people from all social classes. However, life was not all a bed of roses. I was very homesick and kept running away, lasting a total of five terms before going onto Grammar School. Despite this, I still feel that in terms of my personal development I could not have wished for a better start in life and very much doubt that I would have otherwise achieved what I have without this opportunity. 

I have become increasingly tired of the tirade against those who are wealthy or appear to be privileged in some way. In many cases they have worked hard to get where they are, and made sacrifices along the way.  

Much has also been said during recent party-political conferences about our politicians’ back stories, and whether or not they are relevant. There is absolutely no doubt in my mind that it is our life experiences, both good and bad, that shape us, and make us what we are. Before we jump in with our prejudices and opinions, quick to judge and condemn others, we would do well to consider this. 

Who are we to deny those who wish to improve the life chances for their offspring the opportunity to do so? 

Coates & Seely NV sparkling wine, Hampshire, England, 12%abv. - £34.95  

40% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier 

Here they use their own version of the traditional méthode champenoise – the Méthode Britannique for their sparkling wine production. They no longer use isinglass, making the wines suitable for vegans.  

Everything you would expect from a sparkling wine made from traditional Champagne grape varieties. Apple and lemon-curd aromas with honey-dew melon undertones and a typical yeasty fragrance. Full-bodied with plenty of fruit and a creamy finish.  

Andre Dezat Sancerre, Loire, France 2020 13%abv. - £19  

Made from Sauvignon Blanc, this is a highly thought of Sancerre, dry, yet fruity with a delicate bouquet and great length. Their vineyards have three different types of soil which give added complexity. 

Domaine Rollin Pere et Fils Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France, 2018, 13.5%abv. - £15 

Just two hectares from various parcels of 30-to-45-year-old Pinot Noir in Pernand and Echevronne go to produce this lovely wine. Sleek and elegant, with a fresh minerality. No new oak is used, and the wine is bottled after a relatively brief élévage of ten months in order to preserve its fruit. 

THE BATHAMPTON MILL

THE BATHAMPTON MILL, Mill Lane, Bathampton, BA2 6TS

Tel. 01225 469758

With so many pubs, restaurants and other small businesses closing their doors for the final time in the last couple of years, it is heartening to hear of the recent investment that has been made for the refurbishment of The Bathampton Mill.

Having been a professional chef, competition judge and quality standards inspector for more years than I care to remember, I was delighted to receive an invitation to a preview of the new menu.

However, as a critic and writer let there be no mistake.. free meals do not necessarily mean a glowing review; it would be more than my reputation for objectivity and integrity is worth! 

The Bathampton Mill, part of the long-standing Mitchells & Butlers Group, and part of their Premium Country Pubs brand, aims to deliver great food and drinks and a desire to consistently make the great British pub experience special for both their staff and guests. 

Sited on the edge of Bath, one of the UK’s top visitor destinations, competition is tough. The danger for many establishments is the tendency to rely on passing trade, when in fact it is during the off-season that the loyalty of locals is what keeps a place ticking over. 

Added to this is that with rising prices and the struggling economy, people are much more conscious of how they spend their hard-earned money and where they choose to spend it.

Much as I enjoy being on the receiving end of great service and good quality food, what is often overlooked, and can make or break the guest experience, is the hospitality; how I am treated. The odd mishap can be forgiven as long as I, the person paying their wages, feel valued.

Certainly, the splendidly stylish décor with its contemporary new look could not fail to give a very positive and welcoming first impression. The pub has a luxurious country house feel enhanced by interesting eye-catching artwork. Open log fires, for winter months, plush velvet seating and feature lighting add a touch of glamour to this relaxing and inviting space. Clearly this is intended to be a destination pub; not your average local boozer.

The pub has seating for 120, supplemented by a pleasant outdoor area; booking, especially at weekends, is advisable.

Invited to dine there prior to the official launch, the invitation was for myself and a guest, to sample items from their ‘All Day Menu’, which includes the usual suspects, pizza, burgers, steaks and salads, in addition to other more interesting dishes. Seasonal menus, with a range of interesting options from around the world, are supplemented by familiar pub favourites. The Bathampton Mill also prides itself on their rotisserie pork belly, 21 day-aged ribeye steak, and of course the traditional Sunday roast. Their new Dine at Home service is an ideal option for those nights when you don’t feel like cooking. Orders placed via their website automatically receive a 20% discount. 

Arriving on a warm sunny evening, everything looked spick and span, and we were greeted by lovely smiley staff, including Rob (part of the training team and manager at another property), manager Kiran, and Max at the bar, who engaged with us enthusiastically to talk about the wide selection of beverages on offer.

I plumped for the Blood Orange and Passion Fruit Collins, from their extensive list of cocktails (sadly no brandy ones on offer though) which at £8.95 seemed reasonable and was quite delicious; sunshine in a glass. It could well become my go-to cocktail in future. Cocktails are just £12 for two from Monday to Thursday.

My companion, unable to decide which of the 30+ wines by the glass to have, was given several to try before making her decision. As she was driving (so that I could drink) she opted for the low calorie, low alcohol rosé. Not quite my cup of tea; I opted for an Italian Gavi, and a Portuguese red from the Douro. It was good to be able to choose something other than the limited mundane range of choices on offer in most pubs.

Our waitress for the evening, Zoe, was attentive without being intrusive and, once again, was keen to engage with us when invited to do so. When questioned about menu items she showed a good level of knowledge and an awareness of allergies. 

In addition to quite an extensive ‘All Day Menu’, vegetarians and vegans are not forgotten, with a separate menu offered. There is also a children’s menu, main courses at £5.95, where it was pleasing to see some nod to offering healthy accompaniments in addition to the usual pizza, pasta and chicken. Whilst showing the calorie count for each dish was useful, on a personal level, when dining out, I am not at all sure that I want to be reminded of how much I am consuming!

As the pub is part of a large group, it is understandable that some menu items are bought in rather than being made in house.

All of the food we tried was well presented. We opted for ……. (yes, I know, scallops and pork, but our bellies got the better of us!)

PAN-FRIED WILD SCALLOPS with ras el hanout, smoked haddock Florentine bonbons, celeriac purée, apple & fennel tartare 265kcal   11.50. Whilst enjoyable, I felt that the scallops were somewhat overwhelmed by the other ingredients.

PORK BELLY BAO BUN with miso and sweet chili sauce, and kimchi 587kcal  7.25. This was less successful, and a poor rendition of a Chinese staple. 

CAESAR SALAD - baby gem lettuce, anchovies, shaved parmesan, ciabatta croutons 627kcal   10.95. This was huge, and although the anchovies were tinned rather than fresh, it was a fair attempt at a classic salad, and a good deal better than most I have sampled recently.

MAPLE-GLAZED SLOW-COOKED PORK BELLY & SCALLOPS with a pulled pork & cider bonbon, roasted celeriac & fresh apple purée, dauphinoise potatoes, Tenderstem® broccoli, Bordelaise* sauce 1410kcal      19.75. Lots of lovely crispy crackling with this, and the generous portion of Dauphinoise potatoes were very well executed. As for the scallops, an unnecessary addition. 

HOME-BAKED CHOCOLATE BROWNIE Belgian chocolate sauce, Bourbon vanilla ice cream (v) 661kcal     6.95. This is one of a few homemade puds on offer. I am not normally a brownie fan, but this was superb and highly recommended.

SICILIAN LEMON POSSET Vanilla sablé biscuits (v) 325kcal  6.95. Served unusually in a shallow ramekin, this provided a light finale to what was overall a good dining experience.

I would like to have seen cheese on offer to appease those who do not have a sweet tooth.

There is clear customer focus and flexibility at The Bathampton Mill, and although as the evening progressed there were some minor teething problems, this is to be expected with a brand-new team of staff in place; the overwhelming feeling was one of enthusiasm and positivity, and a good level of knowledge, although the website does need some tidying up. 

I certainly plan to return and have earmarked several other dishes worth trying ….

CROXTON MANOR CHEESE SOUFFLÉ - toasted pine nuts, red chicory, sweet pear, cucumber dressing (v) 541kcal   7.50

BUTTERMILK CHICKEN, SOMERSET BRIE & BACON PIE - sautéed green beans & Tenderstem® broccoli, creamed potato, rich chicken gravy 1375kcal     15.75

APPLE & DAMSON CRUMBLE – with Bourbon vanilla ice cream 204kcal or custard 80kcal (v)  6.75

In an industry which is struggling, The Bathampton Mill is clearly taking a step in the right direction, putting the customer at the heart of its operation.  

THERE BUT FOR THE GRACE OF GOD

 

They say that there are only two things that are certain in life; death and taxes.  

Well, most of us, although law abiding people, spend much of our time trying to see how we can avoid paying tax. 

However, death is unavoidable and will come to us all eventually.  

I seem to be attending funerals at the rate of one a week at the moment. Some deaths were not entirely unexpected; the person concerned might have been suffering from long-standing health conditions, and their family and loved ones had experienced first-hand their painful decline and eventual demise. What is shocking though are those sudden and unexpected deaths; here today gone tomorrow. 

It is as if they have just popped out to do a bit of shopping and disappeared off the face of the earth; nothing can prepare us for such an eventuality. 

On a personal level, I have always gone by the maxim ‘live each day as if it is your last’.  

The recent loss of several friends, including one with whom I had enjoyed a long weekend in France just days ago, has given me pause for thought, and made me more determined than ever to do enjoy the here and now. None of us know when or where we might breathe our last breath, and I want to squeeze out every last gasp. 

Although the pandemic has made us all much more aware of the importance of regular contact with loved ones, I am going to make a more conscious effort to ensure that at the last point of contact with friends and family they know that I love them and value them.  

Just in case. 

Summer Celebrations

 

As the summer gets underway, and despite the doom and gloom of the economy, we have lots to celebrate, both nationally and locally. 

Many of our local villages and towns are gearing themselves up for a host of celebrations to mark the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee, with the added bonus that we get an extra-long bank holiday from Thursday 2nd to Sunday 5^th June.  

It looks like we are in for a fun-packed weekend. 

Chard Town Council has been working together with local schools, to organise a torch-lit parade, Thursday, June 2, along with a lantern-making workshop in the Guildhall, Fore Street that morning.  

The torch-lit parade will culminate with the lighting of the Beacon on Crowshute Link at 9.45pm. 

On Friday June 3 there is a special Civic Parade and Service of Thanksgiving take place at St. Mary’s Church. In the evening there will be a show, “Queen of the Commonwealth”, taking place at 7pm at the Guildhall. 

On Saturday June 4, Freedom Leisure will have activities taking place, in addition to a show at the Beacon, headlined with Bristol based band Goodnight Lois. 

On Sunday, June 5 Holyrood Street will be transformed to a street party with entertainment for families, a brass band and food outlets. 

Over in Crewkerne there will be a ‘Jubilee in the Park’ celebration at Henhayes Recreation Ground on Friday 3^rd June, 2-5pm. 

Meanwhile, just down the road in Ilminster there will be ‘The Party on the Rec’ from 20am – 5pm, organised by the Rotary Club of Ilminster, with live music, food, ice cream, a bar, games, and a dog show, all for free! 

Keep your eyes peeled for events in your own community. 

This is not all that we are good at though. Recently asked to be one of the judges for the Town Crier competition held in Ilminster, and ably organised once again by Town Crier Andrew Fox and his wife Julie, I was reminded of the many wonderful quirky traditions for which we should be famously proud. With Town Criers descending on the town from cross the country it was fun to see traffic stopped in its tracks to view this wonderful spectacle as entrants were put through their paces; and creating a right old racket! What was particularly heartening was to see that the younger generation are getting in on the act and that local lass, Sophy, from Chard, was the clear winner in the junior competition. 

Here's a bit of history for you.  

Historically town criers, or Bellmen, were the original newsmen and were particularly important when most of the population was illiterate.  

The first town criers were the Spartan Runners in the early Greek Empire. With the advent of the Roman Conquest the role became a position of the court, formalised after the Norman Conquest in 1066. 

Town criers were protected by law; “Don’t shoot the messenger” was a very real command as anything done to a town crier was deemed to be done to the King and a treasonable offence. People of standing in the community were chosen as they had to be able to write and read official proclamations. Often, they were a husband-and-wife team with the wife ringing the large hand bell whilst her husband shouted out the proclamation, usually at the door of the local inn, before nailing it to the doorpost. The tradition has resulted in the expression “posting a notice” and the naming of newspapers as “The Post”. 

Announcements are always preceded by the traditional “Oyez! Oyez! Oyez!” (which is “listen” in French) and conclude with “God save the Queen”. 

Another truly British tradition that livens up many a town and village throughout the summer months is that of Morris dancing, a form of English folk dance usually accompanied by music. It is based on rhythmic stepping and the execution of choreographed figures by a group of dancers, usually wearing bell pads on their shins. Implements such as sticks, swords and handkerchiefs may also be wielded by the dancers. 

The earliest known and surviving English written mention of Morris dance is dated to 1448 and records the payment of seven shillings to Morris dancers by the Goldsmiths’ Company in London.  

While the earliest records invariably mention “Morys” in a court setting, and a little later in the Lord Mayors’ Processions in London, it had adopted the nature of a folk dance performed in the parishes by the mid-17th century. 

Along with cheese rolling, cream teas, Guy Fawkes’s Night, a good old Sunday roast and our ability to queue, these are things that never fail to bring a smile to my face and makes me truly proud to be British.  

This summer there is plenty to keep us occupied without breaking the bank. 

THE MAGIC OF MONTENEGRO

Photo by Voicu Horațiu on Unsplash

My recent trip to the Balkan states of Croatia, Bosnia-Hercegovina and Montenegro had been planned long before the situation in the Ukraine began to dominate our media. I had been apprehensive that a combination of Covid travel restrictions, and fears of an escalation of the war, would mean the trip would be cancelled, but thankfully not.

From previous experience I know that travelling to war-torn areas of the world can reap many benefits; the absence of hordes of tourists, greater value for money, and the fact that the native population are so grateful to have visitors they welcome you with open arms.

With its unspoiled sandy beaches, historic architecture and awe-inspiring scenery, Montenegro is a much sought-after travel destination.

Where others may focus their travels on specific aspects of a country, its history, nature, wildlife etc., my focus is always on food and wine.

This was an organised tour (the subject of another article) and during our first week as much as visits to UNESCO World Heritage Sites were worthwhile, changing hotels every night made is more difficult to get to grips with an area. Thankfully during our second we week we were able to stay put in one place, in Bečići, just outside the popular holiday town of Budva (which must be a nightmare in the summer months), giving me the opportunity to explore the Montenegrin vineyard region in some depth.

Whilst in many countries it can be advantageous to take part in an organised tour, this was not all necessary in Montenegro, where the crime rate is very low, and outside of peak holiday times getting out and about is hassle-free.

I would advise against booking one of the many organised ‘wine tours’ available. Starting at around €50 per person they do not offer good value for money. The road network, and signage, is good, car hire is inexpensive at €22 per day, including insurance, and driving is stress free. Many of the vineyards are one-man bands and whilst there are advantages to having a guide, especially as many vineyard owners do not speak English, they are always welcoming, and most are willing to provide tastings free of charge. Do be aware that some wineries are open by reservation only.

Many Montenegrin vineyards are located in the southern and coastal regions of the country, around beautiful Lake Skadar, also renowned for its trout, carp and eel, all of which I was able to sample at bargain basement prices.

Montenegro’s mild climate ensures excellent conditions for wine production, with wines made from a wide range of grape varieties including native varieties such as Krstač and Vranac, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Chardonnay, amongst others.

Also, not to be missed is the hillside village of Njeguši on the slopes of Mount Lovćen, with a population of just 35, and where they produce superb Proscuitto (pršut), good enough to rival that produced in Parma, Italy. The particular flavour and aroma of pršut is the result of the mixture of sea and mountain air and the beech wood burned during the lengthy drying process, which can take up to two years to complete. Also worth looking out for, is the fresh local cheese and intensely perfumed honey. Production of these local delicacies is largely a cottage industry, where tastings and sales are conducted from the kitchen of someone’s home.

When shopping locally or eating out, except in larger hotels and restaurants in the main tourist areas, it is worth noting that this is largely a cash economy where credit cards are not usually accepted.

Widely considered Montenegro’s national drink, a good deal of the distilled spirit known as rakija is also produced. Said to be a restorative, instantly destroying bacteria, it gives relief to stomach and muscle pain, annihilating viruses and disinfects wounds. I am left wondering that whilst many of my fellow travellers seemed to be stricken with one ailment or another, it must be the quantity I imbibed that kept me in good health. It is considered obligatory when welcoming someone to your home to offer them a glass of this. Rakija, very similar to the Grappa popular in Italy, can be made out of almost any fruit and has an alcohol content ranging from 40% to 80%, or higher. Most households make their own, with that made from grapes (Loza) being the most popular.

Of the many vineyards along this route here are a few worth trying, and whose wines I enjoyed. The average price for their most recent vintages was in the region of €10 a bottle. For the smaller producers wine sales are on site only, and very few are available to buy in the UK at the moment, but then you would be missing out on a delightful travel experience!

 

Cemovsko Field

This is the largest vineyard on one site in Europe, stretching an impressive 2310 ha., owned by the Montenegrin company 13.Jul Plantaže and established in 1963. For me, small has always been beautiful. Very consumer focused, at this commercial operation they offer a variety of tastings and tours (€12 - €22). They seem to supply many of the hotels and restaurants with the mini 187ml. bottles of house wine on offer, where I would compare the quality with the standard offering of our local pubs; drinkable but unremarkable.

At the premium end of their offerings there are however several award-winning wines available at around £24 a bottle.

Plantaže Wines, Put Radomira Ivanovića, br.2, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38220658028

www.plantaze.com

 

Mola Family Vineyards

Situated in the Podgorica wine region this sizeable family-owned estate is situated in the picturesque village of Rogami. Just minutes away from the ruins of the Roman village Duklja, the mountainous setting makes for prime wine growing conditions, with the sun- drenched surroundings cultivating excellent grape crops. The Mola family produce a variety of wines including a merlot, a cabernet sauvignon, and a white and red blend.

Mola Family Vineyards, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38267867691

 

Radevic Estate

This small, family run vineyard lies just outside of Podgorica city is also in the village of Rogami. The Radevik family pride themselves on their ability to grow and produce original, quality wines using sustainable, organic farming techniques. The wines produced here include a blend of Vranac, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. There is a comfortable guest house situated on the grounds of the estate, and watch out for their super-strength Rakiji.

Radevic Estate, Rogami-Piperi bb, Podgorica, Montenegro. +382-69-276-055

www.radevicestate.com

 

Vinarija Bogojević

This family-run vineyard boasts generations of wine-making experience. Their rustic, homely estate and flourishing vineyard produces a celebrated Bogdan wine, a dense, dark red with hints of vanilla, blueberry, and cassis. As well as wine, Vinarija Bogojević also produces grappa in both a traditional and herbal variety. With beautiful views over Skadar Lake, this vineyard provides its visitors with experiences to remember.

Vinarija Bogojević, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38267533001

www.bogojevic.me

 

Castel Savina

Castel Savina is situated in the historic region of Herceg-Novi, an area of historical significance in Montenegro featuring a beautiful monastery founded by the Duke of Saint Sava. With breath-taking views over the Bay of Kotor, Castel Savina’s luscious greenery and impressive surroundings provide an ideal backdrop for wine tasting. Producing a range which includes a Merlot, a Cabernet Sauvignon, a Grenache rosé and a Chardonnay, there is something for everyone here. The winemakers employ techniques perfected over years in the industry to produce excellent, first-rate products every time. Castel Savina is a family run venue, the only winery in the bay of Kotor and on the Montenegrin coast in general.

Tours by reservation only.

Castel Savina, Branka Ćopića 7d, Herceg Novi, Montenegro  +382 69 042022

www.castelsavina.me

 

Milović Winery

This substantial vineyard and olive plantation produces around 20,000 bottles of wine a year, and is nestled just outside of Ulcinj, the Southernmost town in Montenegro. A thriving seaside region famous for its unspoiled beaches, the area provides ideal conditions for growing grapes. Generating a number of Barrique-stored red wines, the traditional Vranacs here are rich and dark ruby coloured, combining a mixture of forest fruit, cranberry and vanilla flavours. Guests can also stay in the Milović Winery’s apartment complex, with its own tennis court and swimming pool overlooking the gorgeous Montenegrin wine country. Be sure to enjoy a glass in their rustic, cosy wine cellar.

Milović Winery, Briska Gora, Ulcinj, Montenegro. +38267350526

 

Winery Mašanović

Winery Mašanović is situated in the small town of Virpazar on Lake Skadar, the largest lake in the Balkan peninsula, and a vast national park that in 2011 was nominated as a UNESCO world heritage site. The beauty of the surroundings make this vineyard a stunning place to explore, and the mild climate and natural fertility of the soil make for robust and tasty wines with unique flavours. Established in 1969, this vineyard and winery grows six type of grapes and specialises in the traditional Montenegrin Vranec wine, a dark red variety with flavours of dark chocolate, fruit and burnt oak. Also produced here are a range of brandies, as well as cherry and walnut liqueurs made from organic fruits grown on the property.

This family-owned winery has the longest tradition in winemaking and wine growing in Montenegro and is known for its dry red wines which take on a deep dark red hue, with purple tones. Here I was able to sample many of their barrique aged wines.

KRIN barrique is their top level dry red wine, made from Vranac. On the palate the wine tastes like burnt oak (they use French barriques), with raspberry and cranberry fruit flavours.

DIONIS barrique – made by blending 3 grape varieties, Vranac, Marselan and Petit Verdot.

BUĆA barrique – made from a blend of 5 grape varieties, Vranac, Marselan, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. This is produced in limited quantities of just 500 bottles, and is characterised by dark chocolate and cinnamon aromas which follow through on the palate.

TRE SORELLE barrique (semi-sweet) - the late harvesting of selected berries increases naturally the concentration of sugar in for this blend of Marselan, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Full bodied, round and complex with a rich fruity-creamy aftertaste and chocolate finish.

Winery Mašanović, Virpazar, Montenegro. ++382069063460

www. masanovic.blogspot.com

 

 

The Sjekloća Estate

This winery produces just a few thousand bottles of wine a year, giving it an air of exclusivity. Vineyard owner Milenko K. Sjekloća was born in Crmnica, the heart of Montenegrin wine country, and has a reputation for unbeatable wine knowledge. His expertise has enabled him to create truly original and innovative flavours of wine at his estate. The traditional Vranac wine here is aged for 12 months before bottling, and the cellar boasts a large number of vintage bottles varying in type and taste.

For €50 visitors can tour the vineyards and cellar with the expert guidance of the owner, taste t3 vintage wines and obtain wines not available of the open market.

The Sjekloća Estate, Milenko Sjekloća,Limljani bb, Virpazar, Montenegro.

+382020712 231

www.sjeklocavino.com

 

Rupice Winery

With a rich history dating back to the early 20th century, the wines of Rupice Winery have been internationally renowned since they were first sampled at the Balkan Wine Fair in London, back in 1907. Located in Rupice Komanske just west of Podgorica, the owners here produce premium quality wine and brandy with the help of the area’s microclimate.

Respecting the traditional methods implemented by the winery’s first owners, Rupice cultivates its grapes in limited quantities to prevent overproduction, and practices biodynamic farming methods. Their Di Vine branded red wine has a rich fruity aroma, cherry taste and velvety texture.

Rupice Winery,b13 Moskovska, Podgorica, Montenegro +38268313068

www.rupice.me/montenegro

 

Vinarija Buk

This private vineyard and winery lies in the village of Bukovik, also in the famous Crmnica wine growing region, with a total grapevine count of over 6000. The Vinarija Buk wines include a traditional Vranac, an enticing Marselan, and a medium-bodied French wine grape variety first developed by crossing a Cabernet Sauvignon with a black Grenache.

Vinarija Buk, Bukovik, Montenegro. +38267528853.

www.bukwinery.blogspot.com

 

With building work being carried out at some pace across Montenegro, due to inward investment taking advantage of the favourable tax system here, I fear for the future of the unspoilt areas of this beautiful country. My advice, visit as soon as you can before the high-rise hotels fully take hold.

Statement from Linda Vijeh - X MARKS THE BOX

With local elections just four days away, the results for Somerset could not be more significant as voters go to the polls to determine who will represent them as the county moves forward towards becoming a unitary authority.  

With national politics, and the misdemeanours of our parliamentary representatives, dominating the news in recent weeks it is natural for there to be a tendency towards this to impact on local decisions. In my view, this is a mistake.   

Although a highly respected South Somerset Conservative councillor for almost 20 years, I have never been in favour of voting along party lines. What should matter to us all is the suitability of individual candidates to accurately and honestly represent us; someone with integrity that you know can be trusted, even if you may not always agree with their views.   

Sadly, at all levels of government this is often in short supply. I raise this now, because in February of this year at SSDC’s full council meeting I was publicly subjected to an unprovoked attack on my personal integrity by fellow councillors, including Cllr. Seib, Cllr. Dance, Cllr. Clarke and Cllr. Soughton, along with several others. One after the other, in a pre-planned and concerted verbal assault, they sought to defame me, suggesting that my decision to stand down was in some way connected with dishonest behaviour. Such was the serious nature of their comments that I had no option but to take legal action. The consequence of this was that they have all agreed to issue corrective statements at the next full council meeting on 19th May, conveniently after the election.   

What is key to the situation is that the comments about me were made in response to a vote of no confidence in the leader of SSDC (brought forward by Cllr. Martin Wale as a result of the investigation into alleged corruption and fraud within SSDC), but completely unrelated to the issue in hand; the non-disclosure of information relating to claims of corruption and fraud. During the meeting this was never properly addressed as is evident from the video recording of the proceedings.   

In deciding who to vote for this week, I would urge local residents to question and challenge the honesty and reliability of those seeking to represent them.   

Just this week a colleague of the councillors involved approached me to say how sorry they were about the comments that were made by members of their own party, describing the behaviour of those mentioned as despicable. I could not agree more. 

In my experience several of those currently in positions of authority have selective memories.  

A DROP IN THE OCEAN - UNDERWATER WINERIES

 

From time to time, stories of the discovery, and recovery, of precious cargoes of wine, brandy and other vintage tipples hit the headlines, often resulting in them being sold off at auction for huge sums of money. This, despite the fact that in many cases what’s inside the bottle may well be undrinkable. One way of assessing its drinkability before shelling out a whole load of cash is to use a device produced by Coravin, which is capable of extracting wine without removing the cork.

As recently as 2019, an expedition organised by Cookson Adventures, with the aid of various maritime and archaeological entities, including maritime exploration company 10994 Ltd., was undertaken to salvage cargo from a British ship torpedoed off the coast of Cornwall in 1918. The ship in question was a British cargo ship sailing from Bordeaux to the UK with a cargo of wine when it was sunk by a German U-boat.

This resulting haul of several hundred bottles of wine, Champagne and spirits was worth millions of pounds.

Rich pickings indeed for the small number of niche companies that specialise in such recovery operations.

Such exciting discoveries are more frequent than you might think.

For those lucky enough to be able to afford to participate in such adventures, it is a once in a lifetime opportunity to experience first-hand discoveries of great historical significance.

Also in 2019, a team from specialist salvage company Ocean X recovered 900 bottles of booze that had been on board the Swedish ship S.S. Kyros, sunk by a German submarine in 1917 during World War I, on its way to deliver its cargo to Tzar Nicholas II, and now lying at the bottom of the Baltic Sea.

The team, used remote-controlled vehicles in order to retrieve the bottles as the depth, and  condition of the ship and the surroundings of the wreck made the scenario too dangerous even for trained deep divers.

Ocean X was also behind the recovery of the 300 year old “shipwreck wine” found in the North Sea. These surviving bottles of wine, auctioned by Christie’s, fetched thousands of pounds each. A single bottle of Veuve Clicquot found in the wreckage sold for almost £30,000.

Back to the 21^st century.

In the deep, freezing cold, dark waters of the Baltic Sea and the North Sea, items are to all intents and purposes in cold storage. This has prompted some entrepreneurs to exploit the sea’s cool, dark environment and invest in underwater wineries as conditions in the sea are felt to mimic key ageing factors that impact on the wine.

In 2008, Emmanuel Poirmeur, of winery Egiategia, began submerging sparkling wines in France’s bay of Saint Jean de Luz, lured by what he described as the perfect conditions for secondary fermentation. The unpredictable nature of the process soon had him hooked. “If I put 20 wine tanks below the sea, all exactly the same, they’ll all come back different,” he said.

So, working with a small team, which included diver Borja Saracho, he gained permission to rent 500 square metres of seabed in the bay of Plentzia on Spain’s north coast and formed Crusoe Treasure. They sank specially designed structures capable of storing wine, which also acted as an artificial reef. Winemakers across the country soon joined in the experiment, sending bottles of wine for Saracho to plunge into the sea.

The results were astounding, and the development of the wines described as being very distinct from what would happen with the same grape on land.

Similar experiments have been carried out in other parts of the world, providing a cornerstone for what is now a niche and rapidly growing sector of the wine industry. Both in Europe and in the new world winemakers are utilising the power of underwater environments to shape their wines.

The logic behind the theory is that is that underwater conditions, such as constant temperature and the absence of light, mimic two of the vital ageing factors that contribute so much to the development of the wine.

The technique does come at a cost though. The logistics of submerging and retrieving wine, along with the increased risk of breakage and leaks can increase production costs by as much as 70%.

Among those turning to underwater ageing are some of the wine industry’s biggest players. Louis Roederer (of Cristal champagne fame), made headlines when it began using the waters off Mont Saint-Michel as an underwater cellar. Likewise, an experiment by Veuve Clicquot, saw them sinking a champagne-filled vault into the Baltic Sea.

As the sector grows, techniques are varying wildly. Some winemakers sink their wines in sealed amphorae, while others use custom-designed barrels or submersible cages laden with algae-encrusted bottles. Others have shunned marine environments and opted for water-filled tanks on land in shallower water, leaving the wine at the mercy of rising tides and partial exposure to air.

In 2019 the first-ever underwater wine congress was held in northern Spain, with the aim of ensuring a responsible approach to the marine environment, as concern about climate change increases, bringing with it a wider range of water temperatures and an increase in the number of violent weather patterns. At Crusoe Treasure, the underwater cellars are fitted with sensors, providing first-hand knowledge of how the environment is being transformed.

For wine lovers interested in experiencing these extraordinary wines go to

https://underwaterwine.com

Sea Soul No4, is a limited-edition offering from the winery (£58.50) raised to the surface after ageing underwater for six months. Made from 100% Syrah obtained from the vineyards of Álex Ascaso, who is passionate about environmental sustainability, respect for tradition and experimentation. The vineyards at Ayerbe, north of the Monegros and at the foot of the Loarre Mountains, are influenced by the warm southerly winds and in contrast to the northern cierzo from the mountains. A privileged environment where the grapes can mature expressing their full potential.

And where the human hand brings the result to a close.