POLDEN WINES

 

Post pandemic, those businesses which have survived, and many have not, are those that have taken the plunge to explore other options that seem to have weathered the storm. One example of this locally is Polden Wines, at Stocklands Vineyard, based in the Polden Hills, not far from Bridgwater.

A recent visit with vine grower Sue Applegate, shows how with passion and dedication a small business can still make its mark. This diminutive vineyard was planted in 2008 with almost 4,000 vines of just two grape varieties, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, in a total area of just 2 acres. Although the two grape varieties yield the same tonnage, because of its tricky nature, the Pinot Noir has a lower yield. The Pinot Noir, one of my favourite grape varieties, takes up 2/3 of the area and is used both for their ‘Polden Rose’ rosé wine and also ‘Polden Ruby’, their red wine. Its seductive colour and complex flavours give it the advantage of being used either as a full red, or with less skin contact during fermentation, a pretty pale rose. Their white wine, ‘Polden Star’, is made from the Chardonnay grape variety, and here the cool climate conditions give a clean, fresh wine with a hint of citrus, quite unlike the heavier Chardonnays from the New World that many of us have become accustomed to. Polden wines are all Single Vineyard, meaning that all of the grapes from which the wine is pressed only comes from Stocklands vineyard. Whilst up until now all of their wines have been single variety, in 2020, at the height of the pandemic, a decision was made to make a sparkling wine with a blend of both varieties. This decision was largely driven by the difficulties posed by lockdown and the need to ensure that the harvest was not wasted. The good news, for us as consumers, is that this month has seen the long-awaited release of Polden’s first ever sparkling wine, ‘Polden Jazz’. Made with a second fermentation in the bottle, and using both Chardonnay, which is dominant, and Pinot Noir, two of the officially approved Champagne grape varieties, this splendid newcomer cannot fail to lift the spirits. The wine is un-oaked to retain a clean, fresh finish.

After a chance meeting with friends, Sue, renowned peony grower, and with no vineyard experience, took over management of the vines in 2019 in what was to be a steep learning curve. With previous vineyard tenants Mark and Jenny Thorp looking to retire and hand over the reins, Mark acted as mentor, whilst Steve Brooksbank, a well-known wine maker from Shepton Mallet, and with many awards to his name, continues to produce all Stocklands wines. This perfect partnership, where the small team is supplemented by a band of willing volunteers, is going from strength to strength. If you fancy bud rubbing, tucking in, raising the wires, leaf stripping or harvesting grapes, then get in touch.

Tasting sessions are held regularly, and with a ticket price of just £10 per person to include tasting the three Polden wines, this would make an ideal low cost Christmas present for budding oenophiles. The cost is refunded on purchases of six or more bottles. 

poldenwines@gmail.com

Open by Appointment  

Telephone: 07493 773153

TIME TO DECLUTTER

 

Nearing the end of this turbulent year, like many of us, I will be re-assessing my priorities.  

Having resigned from all of my positions of responsibility at the beginning of the year, big sigh of relief, it has taken me longer than I thought to get my act together. 

Not getting any younger, and with, thankfully, no family responsibilities, I have come to the conclusion that it is time to shed those responsibilities that remain, get my hands on as much filthy lucre as I’m entitled, and take off. When? When? Who knows? But what I do know is that I am hampered by my possessions. For me, in the privileged position of owning (with mortgages) two properties, one here in Somerset, and one in Northern France, now both up for sale, has brought about its challenges. 

Reluctantly, I have realised that much as I love the things I surround myself with, collected over almost 60 years, and with lasting memories of times, places, people, what am I going to do in my declining years? Sit at home and stare at them? 

I would describe myself as a tidy hoarder and have more of everything than almost anyone I know, but really, seven dinner services, enough bed linen for a hotel, and countless pairs of shoes, coats, and handbags. You can only eat off one plate or wear one pair of shoes at a time. 

The only thing in constant short supply is wine, but that is a subject for another time. 

My main problem, or two, is that I cannot bear waste, and love a bargain. The vast majority of what I own, including a grandfather clock, a posh leather sofa, and a full suit of armour, has been given to me. ‘I’m getting rid of this Linda, do you want it?’ I just cannot say no. 

Nowadays I dare not leave the house, because three of my key weaknesses are community fund raisers, auctions, and charity shops, although I really do not need any more possessions.  

I am an inveterate viewer of Antiques Road Trip and am continually astonished at how much stuff there is on offer, often very cheaply; items that can make quirky gifts, with the added advantage that the recipient is unlikely to establish how little it cost! 

I think fondly of my 1930s walnut drinks cabinet complete with lemon squeezer in the door, which cost me £5, the 3m x 4m Axminster rug bought for just £18, the wrought iron staircase (which I put up myself) which was a mere £12, and hand-made Egyptian rag rug for just £5 (the very one the shop owner was sleeping on). 

My point is, and it has taken me a while to get here, is that in the run up to Christmas and the gift giving season, do we really need to be trawling through the likes of Argos and Amazon to buy the latest, most expensive, smartest, on-trend gadget, clothing, toy? Not at all. We allow ourselves to be seduced by the marketing campaigns and part with our hard-earned cash on things which largely do not stand the test of time. 

We all have our priorities. Moving forward mine are going to focus on enjoying the here and now, spending time with friends, and storing up those memories that will steer me through my dotage.  

I shall focus on providing the people in my life with good experiences, top quality fresh food and wine, sourced locally and prepared with love. Things which demonstrate time and effort for loved ones, not open purse strings.  

We spend much of our lives worrying about things that will often not come about and there is much to focus on for the remaining weeks of this year, but I live by this, some may say trite, mantra. 

When trouble strikes there are only two question that matter: 

‘Is this life or death?’ If the answer is no, then do not worry about it.  

And if it is, ask ‘Can I do anything about the situation?’ 

If the answer is no, then do not worry about it. 

Wishing you a worry-free start to 2023, combined with health wealth and happiness.

DINING AT THE SEAT OF THE ELITE

 

It is not every day that completely out of the blue one receives an invitation to dine with the provost (Lord William Waldegrave) in the hallowed halls of Eton College. 

To many of us Eton College is synonymous with wealth and privilege; those holding important positions in whatever field they have chosen to practice, and often with titles attached to their names. Whilst, if one reads the British press (which I do not, having given it up as a bad job many years ago), this may reflect the man on the street’s views, it is far from the truth.  

Eton College was originally founded by King Henry VI as a charity school to provide free education to 70 poor boys who would then go on to King's College, Cambridge, founded by the same King in 1441. It is well worth reading up on Eton’s history to put things into context. 

A diverse group, all with a common bond, I, along with 60 others, had been invited to Eton because we had all been the fortunate recipients of bursaries which were offered as a result of the Fleming Report of 1944. The Report recommended reciprocal arrangements between Local Authorities and Public Schools – a proposal that led to what became known as the “Middlesex Scheme” to provide opportunities for public school education to boys and girls irrespective of the income of their parents. Collectively, the scheme beneficiaries were all known as ‘The Fleming Boys and Girls’. 

This was the first ever get-together of us all, which had been organised by Old Etonian Christopher Horne, who has been carrying out research for a book on the subject.  

The luncheon, hosted, and indeed paid for, by Eton College, included those who, in addition to Eton, had been educated at Mill Hill, Rugby, Winchester and, in my case, Westonbirt School. Joined by four other former Westonbirt girls, I was thoroughly delighted at being outnumbered 10 to 1 by our male counterparts. Few of those in attendance knew each other, and most had never met before, which made for enthusiastic, getting-to-know-you type conversation, and I soon discovered that, now fast approaching my 70s, I was almost the youngest person present.  

On being introduced to my fellow diners, a lesser person might well have taken exception to being introduced as ‘The most notorious woman in England’, but not yours truly. I was assured that our organiser had done his homework, causing him to come to such a conclusion.  

Smart casual was the dress code for the day, and after pre-lunch drinks (splendid English bubbly from Coates & Seely), accompanied by just cheese straws and crisps, nothing fancy, we settled down to lunch in Election Hall.  

Thankfully, there was no table plan, and as I plonked myself down into a vacant seat, as the lone female, I was able to benefit from the company of the male diners at our table for eight, which included a bookmaker, a retired solicitor, and a financier who had taken up acting as a second career.  

Whilst our surroundings, with its stained-glass windows, was impressive, I was struck by the lack of grandeur. In fact, I would suggest that Eton College is so comfortable in its own skin it has no need to impress.  

Wines to accompany our two-course lunch included a modest Sancerre, and an Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, both very acceptable examples of their style and age. The food, whilst not quite award winning, was competently prepared and presented. For once, unusually for me, I could find no fault with it, or with the service we received. The apricot stuffed pork, accompanied by ratatouille-style vegetables, was moist and tender and for pud, we were served a deconstructed cheesecake made with baklava topped with blueberries.  

No long speeches meant that lunch was over and done with in just over an hour and half. Perfect. Given the vast number of functions I had attended over many years this was by far the most enjoyable by a long shot. No-one had a hidden agenda, or was there to impress, influence, network, jockey for position or play at being top dog. It was a really jolly, lively gathering, where everyone was keen to engage and discover more about their fellow diners. Also of note, and a rare thing in this day and age, not one of the guests had expressed any food preferences when asked; no vegetarians, no allergies, no dislikes. We all came to the same conclusion; we were all of an age when different dietary requirements were not given any consideration.  

Asked what public boarding school had done for me, I replied ‘Taught me to eat what is put in front of me and push it around the plate if necessary.’ To this day I still have a hatred of leeks (except in soup), and all forms of outdoor exercise, but can comfortably converse and mix with people from all social classes. However, life was not all a bed of roses. I was very homesick and kept running away, lasting a total of five terms before going onto Grammar School. Despite this, I still feel that in terms of my personal development I could not have wished for a better start in life and very much doubt that I would have otherwise achieved what I have without this opportunity. 

I have become increasingly tired of the tirade against those who are wealthy or appear to be privileged in some way. In many cases they have worked hard to get where they are, and made sacrifices along the way.  

Much has also been said during recent party-political conferences about our politicians’ back stories, and whether or not they are relevant. There is absolutely no doubt in my mind that it is our life experiences, both good and bad, that shape us, and make us what we are. Before we jump in with our prejudices and opinions, quick to judge and condemn others, we would do well to consider this. 

Who are we to deny those who wish to improve the life chances for their offspring the opportunity to do so? 

Coates & Seely NV sparkling wine, Hampshire, England, 12%abv. - £34.95  

40% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier 

Here they use their own version of the traditional méthode champenoise – the Méthode Britannique for their sparkling wine production. They no longer use isinglass, making the wines suitable for vegans.  

Everything you would expect from a sparkling wine made from traditional Champagne grape varieties. Apple and lemon-curd aromas with honey-dew melon undertones and a typical yeasty fragrance. Full-bodied with plenty of fruit and a creamy finish.  

Andre Dezat Sancerre, Loire, France 2020 13%abv. - £19  

Made from Sauvignon Blanc, this is a highly thought of Sancerre, dry, yet fruity with a delicate bouquet and great length. Their vineyards have three different types of soil which give added complexity. 

Domaine Rollin Pere et Fils Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Burgundy, France, 2018, 13.5%abv. - £15 

Just two hectares from various parcels of 30-to-45-year-old Pinot Noir in Pernand and Echevronne go to produce this lovely wine. Sleek and elegant, with a fresh minerality. No new oak is used, and the wine is bottled after a relatively brief élévage of ten months in order to preserve its fruit. 

THE BATHAMPTON MILL

THE BATHAMPTON MILL, Mill Lane, Bathampton, BA2 6TS

Tel. 01225 469758

With so many pubs, restaurants and other small businesses closing their doors for the final time in the last couple of years, it is heartening to hear of the recent investment that has been made for the refurbishment of The Bathampton Mill.

Having been a professional chef, competition judge and quality standards inspector for more years than I care to remember, I was delighted to receive an invitation to a preview of the new menu.

However, as a critic and writer let there be no mistake.. free meals do not necessarily mean a glowing review; it would be more than my reputation for objectivity and integrity is worth! 

The Bathampton Mill, part of the long-standing Mitchells & Butlers Group, and part of their Premium Country Pubs brand, aims to deliver great food and drinks and a desire to consistently make the great British pub experience special for both their staff and guests. 

Sited on the edge of Bath, one of the UK’s top visitor destinations, competition is tough. The danger for many establishments is the tendency to rely on passing trade, when in fact it is during the off-season that the loyalty of locals is what keeps a place ticking over. 

Added to this is that with rising prices and the struggling economy, people are much more conscious of how they spend their hard-earned money and where they choose to spend it.

Much as I enjoy being on the receiving end of great service and good quality food, what is often overlooked, and can make or break the guest experience, is the hospitality; how I am treated. The odd mishap can be forgiven as long as I, the person paying their wages, feel valued.

Certainly, the splendidly stylish décor with its contemporary new look could not fail to give a very positive and welcoming first impression. The pub has a luxurious country house feel enhanced by interesting eye-catching artwork. Open log fires, for winter months, plush velvet seating and feature lighting add a touch of glamour to this relaxing and inviting space. Clearly this is intended to be a destination pub; not your average local boozer.

The pub has seating for 120, supplemented by a pleasant outdoor area; booking, especially at weekends, is advisable.

Invited to dine there prior to the official launch, the invitation was for myself and a guest, to sample items from their ‘All Day Menu’, which includes the usual suspects, pizza, burgers, steaks and salads, in addition to other more interesting dishes. Seasonal menus, with a range of interesting options from around the world, are supplemented by familiar pub favourites. The Bathampton Mill also prides itself on their rotisserie pork belly, 21 day-aged ribeye steak, and of course the traditional Sunday roast. Their new Dine at Home service is an ideal option for those nights when you don’t feel like cooking. Orders placed via their website automatically receive a 20% discount. 

Arriving on a warm sunny evening, everything looked spick and span, and we were greeted by lovely smiley staff, including Rob (part of the training team and manager at another property), manager Kiran, and Max at the bar, who engaged with us enthusiastically to talk about the wide selection of beverages on offer.

I plumped for the Blood Orange and Passion Fruit Collins, from their extensive list of cocktails (sadly no brandy ones on offer though) which at £8.95 seemed reasonable and was quite delicious; sunshine in a glass. It could well become my go-to cocktail in future. Cocktails are just £12 for two from Monday to Thursday.

My companion, unable to decide which of the 30+ wines by the glass to have, was given several to try before making her decision. As she was driving (so that I could drink) she opted for the low calorie, low alcohol rosé. Not quite my cup of tea; I opted for an Italian Gavi, and a Portuguese red from the Douro. It was good to be able to choose something other than the limited mundane range of choices on offer in most pubs.

Our waitress for the evening, Zoe, was attentive without being intrusive and, once again, was keen to engage with us when invited to do so. When questioned about menu items she showed a good level of knowledge and an awareness of allergies. 

In addition to quite an extensive ‘All Day Menu’, vegetarians and vegans are not forgotten, with a separate menu offered. There is also a children’s menu, main courses at £5.95, where it was pleasing to see some nod to offering healthy accompaniments in addition to the usual pizza, pasta and chicken. Whilst showing the calorie count for each dish was useful, on a personal level, when dining out, I am not at all sure that I want to be reminded of how much I am consuming!

As the pub is part of a large group, it is understandable that some menu items are bought in rather than being made in house.

All of the food we tried was well presented. We opted for ……. (yes, I know, scallops and pork, but our bellies got the better of us!)

PAN-FRIED WILD SCALLOPS with ras el hanout, smoked haddock Florentine bonbons, celeriac purée, apple & fennel tartare 265kcal   11.50. Whilst enjoyable, I felt that the scallops were somewhat overwhelmed by the other ingredients.

PORK BELLY BAO BUN with miso and sweet chili sauce, and kimchi 587kcal  7.25. This was less successful, and a poor rendition of a Chinese staple. 

CAESAR SALAD - baby gem lettuce, anchovies, shaved parmesan, ciabatta croutons 627kcal   10.95. This was huge, and although the anchovies were tinned rather than fresh, it was a fair attempt at a classic salad, and a good deal better than most I have sampled recently.

MAPLE-GLAZED SLOW-COOKED PORK BELLY & SCALLOPS with a pulled pork & cider bonbon, roasted celeriac & fresh apple purée, dauphinoise potatoes, Tenderstem® broccoli, Bordelaise* sauce 1410kcal      19.75. Lots of lovely crispy crackling with this, and the generous portion of Dauphinoise potatoes were very well executed. As for the scallops, an unnecessary addition. 

HOME-BAKED CHOCOLATE BROWNIE Belgian chocolate sauce, Bourbon vanilla ice cream (v) 661kcal     6.95. This is one of a few homemade puds on offer. I am not normally a brownie fan, but this was superb and highly recommended.

SICILIAN LEMON POSSET Vanilla sablé biscuits (v) 325kcal  6.95. Served unusually in a shallow ramekin, this provided a light finale to what was overall a good dining experience.

I would like to have seen cheese on offer to appease those who do not have a sweet tooth.

There is clear customer focus and flexibility at The Bathampton Mill, and although as the evening progressed there were some minor teething problems, this is to be expected with a brand-new team of staff in place; the overwhelming feeling was one of enthusiasm and positivity, and a good level of knowledge, although the website does need some tidying up. 

I certainly plan to return and have earmarked several other dishes worth trying ….

CROXTON MANOR CHEESE SOUFFLÉ - toasted pine nuts, red chicory, sweet pear, cucumber dressing (v) 541kcal   7.50

BUTTERMILK CHICKEN, SOMERSET BRIE & BACON PIE - sautéed green beans & Tenderstem® broccoli, creamed potato, rich chicken gravy 1375kcal     15.75

APPLE & DAMSON CRUMBLE – with Bourbon vanilla ice cream 204kcal or custard 80kcal (v)  6.75

In an industry which is struggling, The Bathampton Mill is clearly taking a step in the right direction, putting the customer at the heart of its operation.  

THERE BUT FOR THE GRACE OF GOD

 

They say that there are only two things that are certain in life; death and taxes.  

Well, most of us, although law abiding people, spend much of our time trying to see how we can avoid paying tax. 

However, death is unavoidable and will come to us all eventually.  

I seem to be attending funerals at the rate of one a week at the moment. Some deaths were not entirely unexpected; the person concerned might have been suffering from long-standing health conditions, and their family and loved ones had experienced first-hand their painful decline and eventual demise. What is shocking though are those sudden and unexpected deaths; here today gone tomorrow. 

It is as if they have just popped out to do a bit of shopping and disappeared off the face of the earth; nothing can prepare us for such an eventuality. 

On a personal level, I have always gone by the maxim ‘live each day as if it is your last’.  

The recent loss of several friends, including one with whom I had enjoyed a long weekend in France just days ago, has given me pause for thought, and made me more determined than ever to do enjoy the here and now. None of us know when or where we might breathe our last breath, and I want to squeeze out every last gasp. 

Although the pandemic has made us all much more aware of the importance of regular contact with loved ones, I am going to make a more conscious effort to ensure that at the last point of contact with friends and family they know that I love them and value them.  

Just in case. 

Summer Celebrations

 

As the summer gets underway, and despite the doom and gloom of the economy, we have lots to celebrate, both nationally and locally. 

Many of our local villages and towns are gearing themselves up for a host of celebrations to mark the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee, with the added bonus that we get an extra-long bank holiday from Thursday 2nd to Sunday 5^th June.  

It looks like we are in for a fun-packed weekend. 

Chard Town Council has been working together with local schools, to organise a torch-lit parade, Thursday, June 2, along with a lantern-making workshop in the Guildhall, Fore Street that morning.  

The torch-lit parade will culminate with the lighting of the Beacon on Crowshute Link at 9.45pm. 

On Friday June 3 there is a special Civic Parade and Service of Thanksgiving take place at St. Mary’s Church. In the evening there will be a show, “Queen of the Commonwealth”, taking place at 7pm at the Guildhall. 

On Saturday June 4, Freedom Leisure will have activities taking place, in addition to a show at the Beacon, headlined with Bristol based band Goodnight Lois. 

On Sunday, June 5 Holyrood Street will be transformed to a street party with entertainment for families, a brass band and food outlets. 

Over in Crewkerne there will be a ‘Jubilee in the Park’ celebration at Henhayes Recreation Ground on Friday 3^rd June, 2-5pm. 

Meanwhile, just down the road in Ilminster there will be ‘The Party on the Rec’ from 20am – 5pm, organised by the Rotary Club of Ilminster, with live music, food, ice cream, a bar, games, and a dog show, all for free! 

Keep your eyes peeled for events in your own community. 

This is not all that we are good at though. Recently asked to be one of the judges for the Town Crier competition held in Ilminster, and ably organised once again by Town Crier Andrew Fox and his wife Julie, I was reminded of the many wonderful quirky traditions for which we should be famously proud. With Town Criers descending on the town from cross the country it was fun to see traffic stopped in its tracks to view this wonderful spectacle as entrants were put through their paces; and creating a right old racket! What was particularly heartening was to see that the younger generation are getting in on the act and that local lass, Sophy, from Chard, was the clear winner in the junior competition. 

Here's a bit of history for you.  

Historically town criers, or Bellmen, were the original newsmen and were particularly important when most of the population was illiterate.  

The first town criers were the Spartan Runners in the early Greek Empire. With the advent of the Roman Conquest the role became a position of the court, formalised after the Norman Conquest in 1066. 

Town criers were protected by law; “Don’t shoot the messenger” was a very real command as anything done to a town crier was deemed to be done to the King and a treasonable offence. People of standing in the community were chosen as they had to be able to write and read official proclamations. Often, they were a husband-and-wife team with the wife ringing the large hand bell whilst her husband shouted out the proclamation, usually at the door of the local inn, before nailing it to the doorpost. The tradition has resulted in the expression “posting a notice” and the naming of newspapers as “The Post”. 

Announcements are always preceded by the traditional “Oyez! Oyez! Oyez!” (which is “listen” in French) and conclude with “God save the Queen”. 

Another truly British tradition that livens up many a town and village throughout the summer months is that of Morris dancing, a form of English folk dance usually accompanied by music. It is based on rhythmic stepping and the execution of choreographed figures by a group of dancers, usually wearing bell pads on their shins. Implements such as sticks, swords and handkerchiefs may also be wielded by the dancers. 

The earliest known and surviving English written mention of Morris dance is dated to 1448 and records the payment of seven shillings to Morris dancers by the Goldsmiths’ Company in London.  

While the earliest records invariably mention “Morys” in a court setting, and a little later in the Lord Mayors’ Processions in London, it had adopted the nature of a folk dance performed in the parishes by the mid-17th century. 

Along with cheese rolling, cream teas, Guy Fawkes’s Night, a good old Sunday roast and our ability to queue, these are things that never fail to bring a smile to my face and makes me truly proud to be British.  

This summer there is plenty to keep us occupied without breaking the bank. 

THE MAGIC OF MONTENEGRO

Photo by Voicu Horațiu on Unsplash

My recent trip to the Balkan states of Croatia, Bosnia-Hercegovina and Montenegro had been planned long before the situation in the Ukraine began to dominate our media. I had been apprehensive that a combination of Covid travel restrictions, and fears of an escalation of the war, would mean the trip would be cancelled, but thankfully not.

From previous experience I know that travelling to war-torn areas of the world can reap many benefits; the absence of hordes of tourists, greater value for money, and the fact that the native population are so grateful to have visitors they welcome you with open arms.

With its unspoiled sandy beaches, historic architecture and awe-inspiring scenery, Montenegro is a much sought-after travel destination.

Where others may focus their travels on specific aspects of a country, its history, nature, wildlife etc., my focus is always on food and wine.

This was an organised tour (the subject of another article) and during our first week as much as visits to UNESCO World Heritage Sites were worthwhile, changing hotels every night made is more difficult to get to grips with an area. Thankfully during our second we week we were able to stay put in one place, in Bečići, just outside the popular holiday town of Budva (which must be a nightmare in the summer months), giving me the opportunity to explore the Montenegrin vineyard region in some depth.

Whilst in many countries it can be advantageous to take part in an organised tour, this was not all necessary in Montenegro, where the crime rate is very low, and outside of peak holiday times getting out and about is hassle-free.

I would advise against booking one of the many organised ‘wine tours’ available. Starting at around €50 per person they do not offer good value for money. The road network, and signage, is good, car hire is inexpensive at €22 per day, including insurance, and driving is stress free. Many of the vineyards are one-man bands and whilst there are advantages to having a guide, especially as many vineyard owners do not speak English, they are always welcoming, and most are willing to provide tastings free of charge. Do be aware that some wineries are open by reservation only.

Many Montenegrin vineyards are located in the southern and coastal regions of the country, around beautiful Lake Skadar, also renowned for its trout, carp and eel, all of which I was able to sample at bargain basement prices.

Montenegro’s mild climate ensures excellent conditions for wine production, with wines made from a wide range of grape varieties including native varieties such as Krstač and Vranac, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Chardonnay, amongst others.

Also, not to be missed is the hillside village of Njeguši on the slopes of Mount Lovćen, with a population of just 35, and where they produce superb Proscuitto (pršut), good enough to rival that produced in Parma, Italy. The particular flavour and aroma of pršut is the result of the mixture of sea and mountain air and the beech wood burned during the lengthy drying process, which can take up to two years to complete. Also worth looking out for, is the fresh local cheese and intensely perfumed honey. Production of these local delicacies is largely a cottage industry, where tastings and sales are conducted from the kitchen of someone’s home.

When shopping locally or eating out, except in larger hotels and restaurants in the main tourist areas, it is worth noting that this is largely a cash economy where credit cards are not usually accepted.

Widely considered Montenegro’s national drink, a good deal of the distilled spirit known as rakija is also produced. Said to be a restorative, instantly destroying bacteria, it gives relief to stomach and muscle pain, annihilating viruses and disinfects wounds. I am left wondering that whilst many of my fellow travellers seemed to be stricken with one ailment or another, it must be the quantity I imbibed that kept me in good health. It is considered obligatory when welcoming someone to your home to offer them a glass of this. Rakija, very similar to the Grappa popular in Italy, can be made out of almost any fruit and has an alcohol content ranging from 40% to 80%, or higher. Most households make their own, with that made from grapes (Loza) being the most popular.

Of the many vineyards along this route here are a few worth trying, and whose wines I enjoyed. The average price for their most recent vintages was in the region of €10 a bottle. For the smaller producers wine sales are on site only, and very few are available to buy in the UK at the moment, but then you would be missing out on a delightful travel experience!

 

Cemovsko Field

This is the largest vineyard on one site in Europe, stretching an impressive 2310 ha., owned by the Montenegrin company 13.Jul Plantaže and established in 1963. For me, small has always been beautiful. Very consumer focused, at this commercial operation they offer a variety of tastings and tours (€12 - €22). They seem to supply many of the hotels and restaurants with the mini 187ml. bottles of house wine on offer, where I would compare the quality with the standard offering of our local pubs; drinkable but unremarkable.

At the premium end of their offerings there are however several award-winning wines available at around £24 a bottle.

Plantaže Wines, Put Radomira Ivanovića, br.2, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38220658028

www.plantaze.com

 

Mola Family Vineyards

Situated in the Podgorica wine region this sizeable family-owned estate is situated in the picturesque village of Rogami. Just minutes away from the ruins of the Roman village Duklja, the mountainous setting makes for prime wine growing conditions, with the sun- drenched surroundings cultivating excellent grape crops. The Mola family produce a variety of wines including a merlot, a cabernet sauvignon, and a white and red blend.

Mola Family Vineyards, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38267867691

 

Radevic Estate

This small, family run vineyard lies just outside of Podgorica city is also in the village of Rogami. The Radevik family pride themselves on their ability to grow and produce original, quality wines using sustainable, organic farming techniques. The wines produced here include a blend of Vranac, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. There is a comfortable guest house situated on the grounds of the estate, and watch out for their super-strength Rakiji.

Radevic Estate, Rogami-Piperi bb, Podgorica, Montenegro. +382-69-276-055

www.radevicestate.com

 

Vinarija Bogojević

This family-run vineyard boasts generations of wine-making experience. Their rustic, homely estate and flourishing vineyard produces a celebrated Bogdan wine, a dense, dark red with hints of vanilla, blueberry, and cassis. As well as wine, Vinarija Bogojević also produces grappa in both a traditional and herbal variety. With beautiful views over Skadar Lake, this vineyard provides its visitors with experiences to remember.

Vinarija Bogojević, Podgorica, Montenegro. +38267533001

www.bogojevic.me

 

Castel Savina

Castel Savina is situated in the historic region of Herceg-Novi, an area of historical significance in Montenegro featuring a beautiful monastery founded by the Duke of Saint Sava. With breath-taking views over the Bay of Kotor, Castel Savina’s luscious greenery and impressive surroundings provide an ideal backdrop for wine tasting. Producing a range which includes a Merlot, a Cabernet Sauvignon, a Grenache rosé and a Chardonnay, there is something for everyone here. The winemakers employ techniques perfected over years in the industry to produce excellent, first-rate products every time. Castel Savina is a family run venue, the only winery in the bay of Kotor and on the Montenegrin coast in general.

Tours by reservation only.

Castel Savina, Branka Ćopića 7d, Herceg Novi, Montenegro  +382 69 042022

www.castelsavina.me

 

Milović Winery

This substantial vineyard and olive plantation produces around 20,000 bottles of wine a year, and is nestled just outside of Ulcinj, the Southernmost town in Montenegro. A thriving seaside region famous for its unspoiled beaches, the area provides ideal conditions for growing grapes. Generating a number of Barrique-stored red wines, the traditional Vranacs here are rich and dark ruby coloured, combining a mixture of forest fruit, cranberry and vanilla flavours. Guests can also stay in the Milović Winery’s apartment complex, with its own tennis court and swimming pool overlooking the gorgeous Montenegrin wine country. Be sure to enjoy a glass in their rustic, cosy wine cellar.

Milović Winery, Briska Gora, Ulcinj, Montenegro. +38267350526

 

Winery Mašanović

Winery Mašanović is situated in the small town of Virpazar on Lake Skadar, the largest lake in the Balkan peninsula, and a vast national park that in 2011 was nominated as a UNESCO world heritage site. The beauty of the surroundings make this vineyard a stunning place to explore, and the mild climate and natural fertility of the soil make for robust and tasty wines with unique flavours. Established in 1969, this vineyard and winery grows six type of grapes and specialises in the traditional Montenegrin Vranec wine, a dark red variety with flavours of dark chocolate, fruit and burnt oak. Also produced here are a range of brandies, as well as cherry and walnut liqueurs made from organic fruits grown on the property.

This family-owned winery has the longest tradition in winemaking and wine growing in Montenegro and is known for its dry red wines which take on a deep dark red hue, with purple tones. Here I was able to sample many of their barrique aged wines.

KRIN barrique is their top level dry red wine, made from Vranac. On the palate the wine tastes like burnt oak (they use French barriques), with raspberry and cranberry fruit flavours.

DIONIS barrique – made by blending 3 grape varieties, Vranac, Marselan and Petit Verdot.

BUĆA barrique – made from a blend of 5 grape varieties, Vranac, Marselan, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. This is produced in limited quantities of just 500 bottles, and is characterised by dark chocolate and cinnamon aromas which follow through on the palate.

TRE SORELLE barrique (semi-sweet) - the late harvesting of selected berries increases naturally the concentration of sugar in for this blend of Marselan, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Full bodied, round and complex with a rich fruity-creamy aftertaste and chocolate finish.

Winery Mašanović, Virpazar, Montenegro. ++382069063460

www. masanovic.blogspot.com

 

 

The Sjekloća Estate

This winery produces just a few thousand bottles of wine a year, giving it an air of exclusivity. Vineyard owner Milenko K. Sjekloća was born in Crmnica, the heart of Montenegrin wine country, and has a reputation for unbeatable wine knowledge. His expertise has enabled him to create truly original and innovative flavours of wine at his estate. The traditional Vranac wine here is aged for 12 months before bottling, and the cellar boasts a large number of vintage bottles varying in type and taste.

For €50 visitors can tour the vineyards and cellar with the expert guidance of the owner, taste t3 vintage wines and obtain wines not available of the open market.

The Sjekloća Estate, Milenko Sjekloća,Limljani bb, Virpazar, Montenegro.

+382020712 231

www.sjeklocavino.com

 

Rupice Winery

With a rich history dating back to the early 20th century, the wines of Rupice Winery have been internationally renowned since they were first sampled at the Balkan Wine Fair in London, back in 1907. Located in Rupice Komanske just west of Podgorica, the owners here produce premium quality wine and brandy with the help of the area’s microclimate.

Respecting the traditional methods implemented by the winery’s first owners, Rupice cultivates its grapes in limited quantities to prevent overproduction, and practices biodynamic farming methods. Their Di Vine branded red wine has a rich fruity aroma, cherry taste and velvety texture.

Rupice Winery,b13 Moskovska, Podgorica, Montenegro +38268313068

www.rupice.me/montenegro

 

Vinarija Buk

This private vineyard and winery lies in the village of Bukovik, also in the famous Crmnica wine growing region, with a total grapevine count of over 6000. The Vinarija Buk wines include a traditional Vranac, an enticing Marselan, and a medium-bodied French wine grape variety first developed by crossing a Cabernet Sauvignon with a black Grenache.

Vinarija Buk, Bukovik, Montenegro. +38267528853.

www.bukwinery.blogspot.com

 

With building work being carried out at some pace across Montenegro, due to inward investment taking advantage of the favourable tax system here, I fear for the future of the unspoilt areas of this beautiful country. My advice, visit as soon as you can before the high-rise hotels fully take hold.