RESTAURANT TIPS AND OTHER ABUSE

As a fellow chef, I was ashamed to read of the findings of the investigation into salaries and distribution of tips at Le Gavroche. Sadly, I was not surprised.

The analogy may be a poor one, but as someone who spends time working with vulnerable adults and children, whilst the current focus and attention is on long term and widespread abuse in the world of football, we must not forget that abuse in one form or another is endemic in many industries. In the past, we may have spoken in jest of the ‘casting couch’ in the movie industry, but the same principle applies in many professions.

At the heart of the problem is the overwhelming desire to reach the summit of one’s chosen profession, even if it means selling your soul. In the restaurant business the stakes may not reach the stellar heights of our sports stars but there remains cachet in being seen to be associated with the very best, and the competition is tough. The ability to have Le Gavroche, or any number of other top establishments on your CV, even if only washing pots or prepping veg, can open doors. The sad fact of life is that the chefs who have become household names know that they can pick from the cream of the crop, and pay peanuts, if anything at all. Anthony Bourdain is a clear example of just how ruthless life behind the stove can be.  

Whilst we should never condone such behaviour and the negative impact it can have on those subjected to it, whilst our own desires for recognition remain paramount, we leave ourselves exposed to the worst that human beings can inflict.