Alsace and Wine in World War Two

With the 70^th anniversary of the D-day landings on June 6^th this year, along with the 100^th anniversary of the start of World War One, I have been looking at the impact that both wars have had on wine production in a frequently overlooked region of France, Alsace.

Like the rest of France, Alsace uses the AOC (Appelation d'Origine Controlée) system to designate grapes grown in certain areas under controlled conditions, in addition to two stricter designations, Alsace Grand Cru (applicable only to four grape varieties) and Crémant d'Alsace (a popular sparkling wine).

As a wine growing region Alsace has had a turbulent history, passing from Germany to France, as a result of conflict between the two, with alarming regularity, amid much resentment. The turmoil of World War II meant that some vineyards were so littered with unexploded weaponry it was more than 10 years before they could be cultivated again

Although Alsace is currently part of France, the local dialect is still Alsatian, a variety of German, and the grapes have German names.

The wines themselves reflect the region's mixed history. The famous whites, some of my favourite wines, are both dry and fragrant, typically becoming dryer as they age. Alsace produces only one red grape, Pinot Noir, but only four Alsatian grapes, Riesling, Muscat d'Alsace, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer -- are allowed the AOC Grand Cru designation.

Of the other grape varieties, Pinot Blanc from Alsace is sometimes considered the world's best, typically with notes of baked apple and pear. The best are balanced, sometimes smoky, with good acidity, but not harsh

Sylvaner tends to be full-bodied, dry, slightly bitter, with a metallic, ‘steely’ taste; those from the south get better reviews.

Muscat is one of the world's oldest grape varieties, but prone to mutations, the wines can be varied in colour. The resulting wine is light, fresh, peppery and fruity, with hints of mint and roses.

Riesling is a love-it-or-hate-it wine, in part due to the fact that German and Austrian Rieslings are much sweeter than French varieties. Traditional Alsace Riesling is however quite dry.

Alsatian Pinot Gris, related to the Pinot Grigio of Italy, has much more body, with a fruity aroma, hints of caramelised sugar and traces of musty, mushroomy forest-undergrowth.

Gewurztraminer is the most famous wine of Alsace. The German "Gewurz" means "spice," and the wine reflects that, along with floral notes and a delicious whiff of mango and lychee.

The sparkling AOC Crémant wines are bottle fermented, in the same way that champagne is made, and Crémant d'Alsace is a blend of whites including Pinot Blanc, Riesling and Chardonnay; the rare Crémant Rosé is 100 percent Pinot Noir

Here are some of my top picks:-

2009 Paul Blanck Pinot Noir Alsace, 11% - £14.99 - Waitrose

Worth trying, as most Alsace wines are white. It has delicious flavours of ripe cherries, blackcurrants and raspberries, with soft tannins and a slight smokiness on the finish.

2011 Muscat, Goldert, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, 13% - £26.95 - Berry Bros & Rudd

A medium dry organic wine. fragrant, with pear and pebbly notes, reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc, but finer.

2004 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile, 12.5% - £31 -Tesco

Trimbach have been making wine in Alsace since the 17th Century. This cuvée is regarded as one of their finest. Medium dry, refined and complex with superb length. Supple, spicy flavours of apricot, lemon curd, orange peel and vanilla bean, with a mineral character and good acidity.

2011 Gewürztraminer 'Les Princes Abbés' Domaines Schlumberger, 13.5% - £15.99 - Majestic

Intense nose of rose petals, oriental spice and tropical fruit. Off-dry, with a round and mellow texture, balanced by acidity and a peppery finish. Only estate-grown fruit is used and half of their vineyards are recognised as grand cru sites. Very food-friendly, good with mildly spiced dishes or pungent cheeses.

1998 Hugel et Fils Selection de Grains Nobles, 12% - £56.98 – The Drink Shop

A fabulous late harvest dessert wine; elegantly balanced, with brilliant gold highlights, a unique bouquet and the deep, concentrated aroma of oriental spices, orange blossom, marshmallow, honey and currants. Will keep for another 20 years, and goes beautifully with foie gras, Roquefort or Stilton.

Dopff Au Moulin, Cremant d'Alsace Cuvée Julian Brut NV - £21 – The Drink Shop

Fresh and elegant with subtle floral notes, dry and generous on the palate, the finesse of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Auxerrois body are enhanced by the traditional champagne method of production.