With
the advent of what are termed 'new world' wines, those from such
countries as Australia, the United States and South America,
consumers have become used to buying by grape variety. You only have
to go into any pub or wine bar to hear someone ordering a glass of
wine referring to it as Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Shiraz or Merlot.
Lured
by labelling into thinking that most wines are made from single grape
varieties, we have to all intents and purposes become brainwashed
into thinking that this is all there is on offer. No so at all. If
you want to ensure quality then some of the very best wines from
regions like Bordeaux, the Rhone Valley and Chianti, are made from a
blend of grape varieties. This is because each grape variety has its
own characteristics. Some will add colour, others depth and
longevitiy, or other important assets such as tannin or acidity.
These nuances will also be dependent on such factors as where ithe
grapes are grown, the weather, method of harvesting and the way in
which the wine is made. This means that in being blended with a
suitable mate the finished wine becomes much more than each of its
component parts, resulting in a more complex, balanced wine..
In
short, blended wines are neither superior or inferior to varietal
wines, they are just a different style of wine making. Remember too,
that a blend can be anything from say 5% to 95%.
One of the best
examples of blending is non-vintage champagne, where consumers will
want each and every bottle they purchase from a particular champagne
house to taste the same, as each will have its own house-style. This
is achieved by blending all or any of the three grape varieties
permitted in its production; pinot noir, pinot meunier and
chardonnay. The blend may contain wines from many different vintages
and in different quantities to ensure that comforting level of
comformity its fans will desire. On occasion up to 100 different
wines will be used to achieve this.
It is worth noting
also that in many countries the grape variety on the label is no
guarantee that all of the wine in the bottle is made from that
variety. For example, in the USA a wine labelled 'chardonnay' legally
needs to be made from only 75% chardonnay.
To
help you navigate your way through the best blended wines here are my
top picks, all reds apart from one excellent sweet white wine.
Ducru
Beaucaillou 2009, St. Julien, Bordeaux, France - £200 - named
the world’s best 2009 Cabernet blend (65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25%
Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot) in a recent blind
tasting, but you'd need to be fairly well-heeled to indulge.
Available at Berry Bros. & Rudd and other fine wine merchants.
Domaine
Font de Michelle, Cuvée Tradition, 2009, Châteauneuf-du-Pape,
Southern Rhône Valley, France - £25 – made
from a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre grapes, there can be
some inconsistencies with these wines so go for a good producer, such
as this one from Waitrose and The Wine Society.
Viñedos del
Contino, 2007, Rioja Alavesa, Spain - £23.50 – A
blend of Tempranillo,
Graciano and Mazuelo grapes, currently on offer at Tesco.
Triade
Fiano/Falanghina/Greco IGT Campania, 2012, Italy - £8.99 - a
more
accessible wine price-wise, try this classic refreshing white blend
made from Greco,
Fiano and Falanghina grapes, and available at Waitrose.
Bellingham,
The Bernard Series, 2010, South Africa – £14.99 – Malbec,
Merlot and Mourvèdre grapes naturally fermented separately in open
barrels and blended before maturation in French oak barrels to
retain the natural varietal character. Only 10 barrels produced of
this vintage.
Chateau
Suduiraut 2007, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France - £33 –
Luscious dessert wine made from a blend of sauvignon blanc and
semillon grapes. A little goes a long way. Available at Majestic and
others.
A word of warning, some supermarket sites do not show which
vintage a wine is from. Remember that all vintages are not the same,
and should therefore not be priced the same.
Sunday, 22 June 2014
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