Sunday, 22 June 2014

To Blend or Not to Blend

With the advent of what are termed 'new world' wines, those from such countries as Australia, the United States and South America, consumers have become used to buying by grape variety. You only have to go into any pub or wine bar to hear someone ordering a glass of wine referring to it as Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Shiraz or Merlot.
Lured by labelling into thinking that most wines are made from single grape varieties, we have to all intents and purposes become brainwashed into thinking that this is all there is on offer. No so at all. If you want to ensure quality then some of the very best wines from regions like Bordeaux, the Rhone Valley and Chianti, are made from a blend of grape varieties. This is because each grape variety has its own characteristics. Some will add colour, others depth and longevitiy, or other important assets such as tannin or acidity. These nuances will also be dependent on such factors as where ithe grapes are grown, the weather, method of harvesting and the way in which the wine is made. This means that in being blended with a suitable mate the finished wine becomes much more than each of its component parts, resulting in a more complex, balanced wine..
In short, blended wines are neither superior or inferior to varietal wines, they are just a different style of wine making. Remember too, that a blend can be anything from say 5% to 95%.
One of the best examples of blending is non-vintage champagne, where consumers will want each and every bottle they purchase from a particular champagne house to taste the same, as each will have its own house-style. This is achieved by blending all or any of the three grape varieties permitted in its production; pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay. The blend may contain wines from many different vintages and in different quantities to ensure that comforting level of comformity its fans will desire. On occasion up to 100 different wines will be used to achieve this.
It is worth noting also that in many countries the grape variety on the label is no guarantee that all of the wine in the bottle is made from that variety. For example, in the USA a wine labelled 'chardonnay' legally needs to be made from only 75% chardonnay.
To help you navigate your way through the best blended wines here are my top picks, all reds apart from one excellent sweet white wine.
Ducru Beaucaillou 2009, St. Julien, Bordeaux, France - £200 - named the world’s best 2009 Cabernet blend (65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot) in a recent blind tasting, but you'd need to be fairly well-heeled to indulge. Available at Berry Bros. & Rudd and other fine wine merchants.
Domaine Font de Michelle, Cuvée Tradition, 2009, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhône Valley, France - £25 – made from a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre grapes, there can be some inconsistencies with these wines so go for a good producer, such as this one from Waitrose and The Wine Society.
Viñedos del Contino, 2007, Rioja Alavesa, Spain - £23.50 – A blend of Tempranillo, Graciano and Mazuelo grapes, currently on offer at Tesco.
Triade Fiano/Falanghina/Greco IGT Campania, 2012, Italy - £8.99 - a more accessible wine price-wise, try this classic refreshing white blend made from Greco, Fiano and Falanghina grapes, and available at Waitrose.
Bellingham, The Bernard Series, 2010, South Africa – £14.99 – Malbec, Merlot and Mourvèdre grapes naturally fermented separately in open barrels and blended before maturation in French oak barrels to retain the natural varietal character. Only 10 barrels produced of this vintage.
Chateau Suduiraut 2007, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France - £33 – Luscious dessert wine made from a blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon grapes. A little goes a long way. Available at Majestic and others.


A word of warning, some supermarket sites do not show which vintage a wine is from. Remember that all vintages are not the same, and should therefore not be priced the same.

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