Wednesday 17 March 2021

St Patrick’s Day – The Wearing of the Green

 


I have always felt that it is most unfortunate that St. Patrick’s Day is associated with the colour green; a colour that for me, conjures up vegetables and other healthy stuff. Not my scene at all.

However, further exploration this year has revealed, in startling truth, the reason behind this, amply demonstrated in the Irish Street ballad, The Wearing of the Green (reprinted below). The ballad laments the troubles and repression of the ordinary farm labourer, and those gentry whose allegiance lay with Irish freedom fighters, whether they were Catholic or Protestant, and all others who were prepared to lay down their lives for the wearing of the green.

Wearing the colour green at the time, whether it be a sprig of shamrock or a green sash, showed solidarity with the freedom fighters, so was banned. In addition, shamrock was not allowed to grow on Irish ground by law, the penalty being that those guilty of having it found on their land would be hanged. This, despite the fact that shamrock grew wild.

However, in March 1900, on hearing of the Irish Regiment’s success in the Boer War, Queen Victoria sent this message: “I have heard with deepest concern of the heavy losses by my brave Irish soldiers. Her Majesty the Queen is pleased to order that in future on Saint Patrick’s Day all ranks of her Irish Regiments will wear a sprig of shamrock on their headdress in honour of their gallantry.” To this day a member of the royal family presents shamrock to the members of the Irish Guards regiment of the British Army on St Patrick’s Day.



The Wearing of the Green

I met with Napper Tandy and he took me by the hand

And he said: “how’s poor old Ireland and what way does she stand?”

She’s the most distressful country that ever yet was seen

For they’re hanging men and women there for the wearin’ o’ the green.

So if the colour we must be England’s cruel red

Let it remind us of the blood that Irish men have shed.

And pull the shamrock from your hat and throw it on the sod

But never fear, twill take root there, though underfoot ’tis trod.

When laws can make the blades of grass from growing as they grow

And when the leaves in summer-time their colour dare not show,

Then I will change the colour, too, I wear in my caubeen,

But till that day, please God, I’ll stick to the wearin’ o’ the green.



During my time living and cooking in Ireland I don’t recall the occasion being celebrated with quite the same fervour as I experienced in New York, where every year there would be a huge parade. Traditionally, this saint’s day, one of religious observance, was commemorated in Ireland modestly, culminating in a feast.

However, in the face of their ill treatment, ex-patriot Irish Catholics in the USA began to throw huge parties on the 17th March (which also happens to be my mother’s birthday) to celebrate and demonstrate their pride in their heritage.

The New York City St. Patrick’s Day Parade was first held in 1762, fourteen years before the signing of the Declaration of Independence. It remains the world’s oldest and largest parade and was initiated by a band of homesick, Irish ex-patriots and Irish military members serving with the British Army, who were stationed in the colonies in New York. They felt free to speak Irish, wear green, sing Irish songs and play the pipes to Irish tunes that were meaningful to them.



St. Patrick's revellers thought wearing green made one invisible to leprechauns, who would pinch anyone they could see. People began pinching those who didn't wear green as a reminder that leprechauns would sneak up and pinch green-abstainers.

When it comes to celebratory drinks, although there are several drinks that are naturally green, I am not a fan of drink, or food, being dyed.

I like my alcohol to pack a punch, so my top pick would be Absinthe. Not cheap, at around £40 a bottle, it can be up to 70%abv. (compared with normal spirit strength of 40%abv.). Served straight in small measures over ice, it is definitely not for quaffing.

The Obituary Cocktail, made with gin and a dash of dry vermouth and absinthe, served chilled in a martini glass, is sufficiently potent that, were you to drink enough of it, it might well be the last drink you imbibe!

Likewise, green Chartreuse, also around the same price, and 55%abv., is a lovely after-dinner drink, served well chilled. It is the only liqueur which is naturally green and made to a secret monastic recipe from Carthusian monks. First made in 1737, it contains a blend of 130 plants and flowers.

Crème de Menthe, known as a ‘sticky green’, is ideal if you are in the mood for a sweet mint drink. To mix it up a bit there lots of cocktail recipes available.

You can of course perk up your drinks by adding green fruits such as lime, kiwi, green apple or grapes, and also cucumber, which all make a good garnish.

Quite one of my favourite ‘green’ cocktails is the Ritz Fizz, which is really simple to make. Put a dash of Blue Curaçao and an equal amount of Amaretto in the bottom of a champagne flute and top up with bubbly for a sparkly, translucent green, festive drink.

To celebrate St. Patrick’s Day however it really does not have to be green; Black Velvet, made from equal parts Guinness and Champagne is surprisingly delicious.

Last, but not least, according to legend St. Patrick drove snakes out of Ireland, so you could always resort to Snakebite, equal parts lager and cider. Not for me though.

In the words of Pat Maloney - "Whether I drink often or just once in a while; I'm always sure to raise a glass to the dear old Emerald Isle."

 


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