Foraging for Mushrooms - Risotto Recipe and Wines to Match

With autumn now in full swing, the foraging season is upon us. For me it brings back memories of my time in New York, when as chef to the British Ambassador to the UN, some 27 years ago, I was almost arrested in Central Park on one such foraging outing with ‘Wildman’ Steve Brill. This resulted in headline news when the authorities wrote to the Ambassador requesting that I cease collecting food for free in the park.

But no matter, mushrooms are in abundance, and if you can get your hands on wild, rather than cultivated ones, they make a delicious rich and warming risotto. Not many of us will have considered actually trying to match wines with mushroom risotto, but I have unearthed, excuse the pun, a few delectable bottles, and a cider, which will do the job nicely. If all else fails, go for a decent pinot noir.

Here’s my favourite recipe to whet your appetite for a tipple or two.

• 1 litre vegetable stock
• 1 tsp. Saffron (not essential, but I love it)
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 2 shallots, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 300g mushrooms, sliced or coarsely chopped (I prefer a mix - chestnut, portobello, chanterelle, shiitake, and girolles are all good)  
• 300g arborio rice
• 1 x 175ml glass dry white wine
• 100g butter
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme
• A generous handful of flat parsley leaves, chopped
• 50g parmesan, freshly grated

Method

1. Heat the oil and half the butter in a deep frying pan over a medium heat. Add the chopped shallots and garlic. Fry for about 5 mins. until soft and translucent.
2. In a saucepan, heat the stock until simmering, add the wine, and saffron, and put to one side.
3. Add the rice to the frying pan and cook for 1 min., stirring until each grain is coated in the butter and oil mixture.
4. Pour over approx. ¼ of the hot stock/wine, stirring often until it has all been absorbed.
5. Add the chopped mushrooms and the thyme.
6. Continue adding the liquid, a little at a time, stirring, until it has all been absorbed. This could take up to 30 mins., so be patient!
7. By the time the last of the liquid is added the rice should be almost cooked, if not, then add a little water. The finished risotto should be creamy in texture, but still with some bite, and not at all dry.
8. When the rice is cooked, take the pan off the heat, stir in the remaining butter and scatter over half the parmesan and chopped parsley.
9. Cover and leave for a few mins. so the rice can absorb excess liquid as it cools.
10. Give risotto a final stir, spoon into bowls and scatter with remaining parmesan and parsley.

Turning Leaf Vineyards Pinot Noir, 2012, Sonoma, USA. 12.5%, £7.99

The characteristic savoury, earthiness of this grape variety make it a good match.

 

Château Valfontaine 2012, Bordeaux, France. 13.5%, £9.99

A modern style claret, with hints of tobacco and spice, suited to rich, hearty dishes.

 

Domaine A F Gros 2007 Vognes Romanée Aux Réas, Burgundy, France. 13%, £39.99

A well structured complex wine from a small domaine. Drinking now, with a rich and supple mouth feel.

 

Simonnet Febvre 2010 Chablis Premier Cru Montmains, Burgundy, France. 13%, £18.99

A vibrant, clean wine from a top producer. Crisp fruit, mineral, and steely on the palate.

 

Cantina del Pino 2009, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy. 14%, £24.99

A wine with finesse from a rising young star. Aromatic and elegant with approachable tannins.

 

Chateau Musar, 2007, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon. 14%, £21.99

Redolent with leather and musk, a very individual, complex wine that has a cult following.

 

Duchy Originals Organic Vintage Cider, Herefordshire. 5%, £2.09

Organically grown apples from a single year, matured in oak vats. Balanced and refreshing.