Feeling Fruity - English Fruit Wines

I’m not a lover of the sun, and writing this on the hottest day of the year, with heat wave warnings the main news item of the day, it doesn’t take much for me to long for the cooler, balmier days as summer turns to autumn, and ripe hedgerow fruits come to mind.

 

Back in the 70s and 80s English fruit and flower wines suffered from bad press. Partly, I would suggest, as a result of many of us, me included, who were keen to make our own rather dodgy versions. I well remember those exploding demi-johns! 

No longer it would seem. Recently there has been a revival of this very British tradition as professional wine makers, in a bid to keep some buoyancy in their product range, have edged into the ‘country wine’ market. I find they also make great inexpensive gifts for visitors from abroad.

'Country wines' are thought to have been developed as fruit-flavoured versions of mead before sugar came onto the scene.  

Shunned by more sophisticated wine drinkers, the quality of these wines is still determined by getting the balance between acidity and sweetness right. Often high in alcohol (although lighter versions are now on the market) and full of flavour, they tend to be medium sweet or off-dry. The still varieties are usually served at room temperature, and not for quaffing in any quantity. The sparkling versions, served chilled, can be very refreshing and make great spritzers,  whilst fruit liqueurs make a perfect after dinner tipple or yummy additions to puddings.  

There are a number of companies now offering ‘country wines’, including Carr Taylor, Field Bar and Jurgsahall. 

Keeping it local, as is my wont, both Avalon Vineyard and Lyme Bay Winery have a good reputation, producing a wide range, available in good independent shops, for between £7.50 to £10 a bottle.

Here are some of my favourites.

Blackberry - medium sweet, full of tangy fruit flavour, with a ripe hedgerow nose.

Damson - off-dry, with mellow fruit flavours and a slight pepperiness, making it a good match for Indian and Chinese food.

Elderberry  - off-dry, with a lovely rich deep colour and flavour to match. Goes well with winter warming red meat casseroles, or after dinner with a strong firm cheese.

Rosehip – off-dry, a beautiful salmon pink, more vegetal than fruity. Best served chilled with full flavoured seafood or chicken dishes.

Sloe – medium sweet , a smooth traditional country wine. Good with red meat and casseroles, or cheese. Personally, I prefer my sloes in gin….. but that’s for another time.