Shakespeare and food

The current vogue for more modern bards not withstanding, this week, the anniversary of Shakepeare’s birthday, over 400 hundred years ago, seems an appropriate moment in which to reflect his influence on our current day cuisine - in literary terms of course! Many of the quotes he introduced to our language have fallen so happily into everyday use I think we sometimes need to reflect on the vast contribution he made. This is of course, still in doubt as from time to time doubts are raised as to his authorship of some of our most well known literary works.

What then of his connection with food? We have only too look no further than Jane Weeks Martin’s book entitled Cooking As You Like it, published in 1963, to find the link. Let me set the scene.

In Elizabethan England, then as now, the height of entertainment was to troop up to town to see the latest play, or wait with anticipation the arrival of the strolling players who visited villages and towns across the country, usually once a year. It was something to look forward to, and naturally one would require refreshment before or after, either to discuss the forthcoming performance or go over, scene by scene, word by word, the play just scene.

As a culinary historian I know something of Elizabethan eating habits. For instance, the fork as an eating utensil was not introduced (from Italy) right until the end of Elizabeth’s reign, with knives (for cutting up huge portions of meat) and spoons being the preferred armory. Much was available that we would recognise now - macaroni cheese for example. Mostly, however, there was great reliance on seasonal produce. Ship loads of imported foods would arrive periodically, with no notice, to supplement the daily diet of fruits and vegetables, with a glut quickly followed by a dearth. Roasting and boiling were the favoured methods of cooking, and meals eaten in taverns cost significantly more than they would be today’s standards, so something for a real treat. Seating was usually at large tables, and cloths not a common sight except in the finest homes. Much fun was had in guests trying to guess what they were eating. A new vogue for ‘cooked’ dishes meant the height of sophistication if diners could not recognise the ingredients used - how the tables have turned. Bread was a staple, manchet (white) and cheat (brown). Potatoes had not yet found favour, and tea, coffee and chocolate had not yet found their way to our shores. Water was considered suspect (how right they may have been in hindsight), with ale, cider and beer being the favoured liquid refreshment. Refined spirits were as yet unheard of.

Shakespeare himself would have consumed a whole loaf of bread at breakfast, washed down with a tankard of strong ale. Eggs were eaten by the half dozen. Herring, old meat or cheese would supplement this. Midday and evening meals would consist of as many as seven courses, with a whole roast chicken per person being considered a suitable portion size. Soup or ‘pottage’ had just become fashionable, and fish was eaten on fast days. Mostly people ate meat, and in the winter season when fresh fruit and vegetables were not available, ‘verjuice’, made from grapes was drunk to counteract scurvy. Parsley sauce was most popular, but just as frequently a large dollop of vinegar was used on fish and meat (we still like vinegar on our fish and chips now). Onions and leeks the most favoured vegetables, with lettuce being considered a

foreign newcomer.

Pericles Act II, Scene 1

Third fisherman ‘…..I marvel how the fishes live in the sea.’

First fisherman ‘……Why, much a men do a-land; the great ones eat up the little ones.’

Much Ado About Nothing Act II, Scene 1

‘Come in and let us banquet royally…’

Act II, Scene 3

‘Love may transform me to an oyster; but I’ll take my oath on it, till he have made an oyster of me, he shall never make me such a fool.’

Antony and Cleopatra Act I, Scene 5

‘This treasure of an oyster..’

Act I, Scene 5

‘My salad days, When I was green in judgement…’

Coriolanus Act I, Scene 1

‘…the gods sent not Corn for rich men only….’

Othello Act II, Scene 1

‘She, that in wisdom never was so frail

To change the cod’s head for the salmon’s tail…’

The Two Gentlemen of Verona Act III, Scene 1

‘…Blessing of your heart, you brew good ale.’

The Winter’s Tale Act IV, Scene 4

‘…she is The queen of curds and cream.’

All’s Well That Ends Well Act IV, Scene 5

‘Indeed, sir, she was the sweet-marjoram of the salad

or, rather, the herb of grace.’

Act V, Scene 3

‘Mine eyes smell onions; I shall weep anon….’

Act IV, Scene 5

‘We may pick a thousand salad ere we light on such another herb.’

Twelfth Night Act II, Scene 3

‘…And ginger shall be hot I’ the mouth too.’

The Merry Wives of Windsor Act V, Scene 5

‘Let the sky rain potatoes…’

Romeo and Juliet Act IV, Scene 2

..’tis an ill cook that cannot lick his own fingers….’