Tuesday 24 December 2013

Wine to match lamb

Spring is the season for lamb. At this time of year the joy of seeing young spring lambs gambolling in nearby fields makes me question my own ethics, but lamb is my favourite meat and I find it impossible to resist both it’s mouth watering aroma, and its diversity in the kitchen. For spring Sunday lunches however, for many of us, it just has to be roast lamb, British of course, for those of us that can still afford it.

Of all red meats, lamb is the most wine friendly. The tender, sweet and succulent flavour of young spring lamb, especially a shoulder, marries well with juicy red berry flavours. Younger wines work best, so my suggestion is an unoaked Merlot or Tempranillo, both of which have a bright, fruity character.

Richer, more strongly flavoured meat of older animals, and cuts such as the leg, stand up well to a more robust style of wine.

If the weather has still not brightened up a little, sit by the fire and imbibe in a good old fashioned heart warming lamb stew, with a full-bodied Syrah/Shiraz.

For roast lamb, with its browned flavours, you’ll need a big gun – a complex, well-structured red from the south of France, or one of Spain’s wine regions, such as Rioja or Ribera del Duero. Barrel-aged wine will suit rich roasts, as its wood-spice and vanilla tannins stand up well to the meat.

Marques de Riscal Rioja Reserva 2005, Rioja, at around £13.
A well known Rioja with a ripe, rich and fruity style but rounded in texture; a real treat with roast lamb infused with plenty of rosemary and garlic.
 
It pairs beautifully with Cabernets, Rhônes, and—my newest discovery—Pinot Noir.
A classic Cabernet’s minty/herbal side goes with the grassiness of lamb (which, traditionally, can be served with a mint sauce), while Rhône reds (usually Syrah or Grenache) have an earthiness that complements lamb’s meaty complexity. But Pinot Noir illustrates an important lesson of food-and-wine pairing: It’s sometimes better to go for contrast than harmony.
Domaine du Pégau, is one of the top wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape; it’s Grenache-based and exceedingly food friendly.
With gamey flavours suggestive of wild animals, such as rich cherry and blackberry, wild herbs, and hints of olives, coffee, and tar. Lamb was a natural choice.
Roast it whole and to echo the character of the wine, I devised a pungent relish of dry-cured black olives, shallots, garlic, thyme, anchovies, rosemary, and orange zest.

Qupé, which is famous for Rhône-variety wines (particularly Syrah), and Au Bon Climat, celebrated for Pinot Noir. Of course, the main dish was lamb.

It’s not a combination I think of as reflexively as Pinot and pork, but I’ve been testing it lately, and it does indeed work, especially if the lamb’s not too lean and not overcooked.”

The Rhône-style wine went wonderfully with the lamb, but the bright red fruit of the Pinot again took the pairing to a more interesting place.


When it comes to pairing wine with lamb with a wine, a few guidelines are appropriate, but let your palate rule your choice.

The Main Choice for Lamb
Strong red wines are particularly delicious with lamb. The term lamb encompasses a wide range of cuts: lamb chops, leg of lamb, and lamb shanks. Then the preparations: roast lamb, stew, kebabs.

The fact remains that a certain preparation will alter the specific wine you need. Even within the red wine family, variations exist.
Serve a Pinot noir with a lightly flavoured preparation, such as a roast or a steak. Serve the stronger wines—Merlot, Syrah, Red Zinfandel—with more strongly flavoured dishes. Ethnic dishes with spices, or more familiar dishes flavoured with herbs and garlic all take well to very strong wines.

But What About the Whites?
Heavier whites are scrumptious with heavier dishes: think a Sunday lamb roast.
Red wine may be the best to serve with lamb, but certainly not the only option.

Food Wine (Best Pairing Listed First)
Lamb Dishes in General; Mild Dishes Cabernet, Rioja, Pinot Noir, Riesling
Lamb in Garlic and Herbs Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Rhône, Spanish red wine
Lamb Chops Cabernet Sauvignon, wines high in tannins
Lamb Shanks Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel
Grilled Lamb with Veggies Syrah/Shiraz, Zinfandel
Roasted Lamb Barolo, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

It’s true that lamb is one of the most wine-friendly of meats, as at home with red Bordeaux and Rioja as it is with the more fruit driven varietals from the new world. But if you’re looking for a spot-on match it’s worth thinking just how - and for how long - you’re going to cook it. And, though you might not have thought about it before, how old it is.
Spring lamb served pink with fresh herbs and/or spring vegetables
Cuts like rack of lamb, noisettes and leg of lamb - exactly the sort of dishes you might be thinking about for an Spring feast. I’ve got a bias in favour of Pinot Noir or cru Beaujolais with this type of dish. Dry rosé, especially vintage rosé Champagne, is also good.

Roast lamb served medium-rare to well-done, with garlic or rosemary and/or a winey sauce or gravy
The way many households would prepare a leg of lamb for a multi-generational family get-together. This is more robust treatment than the above which would work better with a younger, more fruit-driven wine such as a younger red Bordeaux, Cabernet or Cabernet/Merlot blend, a Rioja reserva, a Chianti Classico or a northern Rhône red. (The same goes for lamb shanks cooked in red wine.)
Slow-roast shoulder of lamb
A fattier, more flavourful dish, A slightly gamey Rhône or Spanish red such as a Ribera del Duero is a good choice with this.
Typically British/Irish lamb stews and hotpots, shepherd’s pie
The characteristic of these types of dishes is their very simple flavours - sweet-tasting lamb, stock and a few root vegetables with maybe a sprig of thyme or bay. Big tannic reds will overwhelm them - stick to inexpensive country reds such as a Côtes du Rhône Villages. (Or, frankly, a British pale ale.)

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